(03) Squeeze Me  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  JMw, Brian Janezic (12-07) New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  JMayhew on Feb 10, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Katie O'Brien about to be "squeezed"

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Description 

1. Start at the base of “Pin There…” in a right-diagonalling crack that joins the long straight crack. Clip a pin that protects the first small bulge and belay just above on gear on small ledge. (5.8+) 100’ (It’s possible to start directly at the base of the face up easy but very flaky rock.)

2. Diagonal right to the wide crack on the right side of the roof. A short, well-protected squeeze chimney leads to another 50’ of stemming up an off-width. (5.9) 100’ Scramble off top and hike down steep gully around left.

Location 

On the right pinnacle, just right of “Pin There…” is a long crack that splits most of the face. The final roof was too tough so we diagonalled over and finished up the large crack on the right side. (See "location" section for "Chicken Crack" for more info.)

Protection 

Include double cams to #3 and one #4.

Photos of (03) Squeeze Me Slideshow

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Katie O. on p.1

Starting p.2