(03) Orange Fantasea
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Tony on Orange Fantasea.
Start on a boulder and navigate through a few interesting moves to a left hand flake/side pull. Endure a difficult move after clipping the second bolt. To those of us who have had the pleasurable experience of climbing rotten rock in our days, this thing looks like it's gonna peel off, though when I put my hands on it it was solid. Once through these moves you will find yourself eye level with a small cave, take a nice rest here. The next move is awesome! While your resting gather some beta for the roof, then do it!
After pulling the large roof, the line turns vertical and continues just to the right of the bolts. Pull a final difficult move through the upper roof and clip the anchors that are shared with Snorkel
The steep like on the right side of the Orange Cave.
From: Randolph, Maine
Feb 15, 2016
I felt this climb was sandbagged at 11a, but I may have missed some beta. 11c IMO. The holds in the cave are wicked dirty and grimy. You can get a nice no-hands rest at the 4th both with a kneebar in the small cave before cranking the lip (fun, pumpy move) and the last bulge before the chains is no gimme. Clipping the 5th bolt at the roof is tough since it's sort of a blind clip (make sure the gate of the biner clipping the bolt faces to the right - weird loading potential could open the gate in a fall with a gate facing left). Cleaning the draws while lowering from this climb is tricky and can be dangerous - best to have someone TR through the draws or stay trammed in all the way to the belayer, leaving the 1st bolt clipped to the rope (it's an easy solo to the 1st bolt to clean the draw)