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The Bush League 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Will Wallace, Nate Adams
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,900
Submitted By: Bill Ballace on Aug 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

The Bush League climbs like two routes in one. It starts with good holds on a vertical wall that disappear just before the fourth bolt. One or two hard moves leads to a large ledge. It is possible to camp here, so you might want to bring a chair and six pack to enjoy the scenery while you recover fully.

Set off up an overhanging face with jugs to the top.

Location 

This is just left of the big cave at the north wall.

Protection 

10 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of The Bush League Slideshow Add Photo
The tall guy way.
The tall guy way.
The upper crux
The upper crux
Big moves on big holds!
Big moves on big holds!
Kevin looking smooth and casual.
Kevin looking smooth and casual.

Comments on The Bush League Add Comment
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By Chris Archer
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Terrific route. The opening crux, which can be easily avoided to the left, felt like 12b after some tries working out an inobvious sequence. The second half of the route is among the best in the area. A boulder problem at the 2d bolt off the ledge leads to fun climbing with big moves to big, sometimes hidden, holds. 12a on its own.
By Matt Battaglia
Aug 2, 2008

I'll agree that the contrived variation (staying in the direct plum-line of the 1st 4 bolts and not busting a left to jugs) is quite hard for 12a. 12b seems like the right rating for the lower sequence I worked out. The upper jug sequence is way easier. Some folks I was climbing with dared to say 11b/c without the direct start. Oh, we broke 2 holds and 2 feet off this route today.
By Nate Adams
Aug 26, 2008

Matt, Chris - glad to hear you enjoyed the route! That lower crux seems to be nearly on-sight proof. I got on it again this summer and had to work out the sequence all over again. From my vantage point, however, I would have to say that the "contrived variation" is busting out left. :)
I broke a footer myself - it sounds like the lower section could be getting harder.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 26, 2008

I have never been on it, but I know contrived when I am climbing something that is. If you find yourself asking yourself if the holds are on, then it is contrived or forced. Not the end of the world just not as good as a line that isn't. Sounds like a good route despite the bottom's ambiguity.
By Nate Adams
Oct 3, 2008

Normally, when a post begins with "I have never been on it, but...", I would dismiss it as the rantings of someone craving attention. But I'm bored, and craving attention, so here goes. Eric, by definition, all climbing routes are contrived. Every route ever done, sport, trad or otherwise, has been contrived by someone, even the boldest, hardest solos. Which makes the sport of climbing somewhat of a contrivance, albeit a damn fine way to waste precious time.

So, step away from the computer, climb down off the couch, visit Lime Creek and climb the many contrivances you will find there. Nobody will (hopefully) 'force' you to use this hold, or that hold, or stay strictly to a particular sequence - you're even welcome to step on bolts, pull on draws and train your belayer to tug on the rope at just the right "moment". Hell, I won't even be offended if you don't like any of my contrivances. Climb on!
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ya know, I don't like contrived lines either, AND THIS IS CERTAINLY NOT ONE OF THEM. I feel the need to defend this route, even in opposition to the friend I climbed it with. The only thing I could say if this line had not been bolted would be what a waste! It's a great line. Going left from the 3rd bolt is appealing during the onsight attempt, especially after having taken a good look at a very difficult and technical crux to the right, but having gone left, the climber now finds him/herself on still very, very difficult ground, perhaps harder. It is at this point that it becomes very easy to go even further left, get completely off route with simple and easy stems and jugs galore, and not be worried in the slightest about the nasty fall you would take (if you were actually climbing something one might fall on). I could traverse over to several neighboring routes and climb 5.8 comfortably to avoid cruxes, but being nearly 10 feet away HORIZONTALLY from the bolt means you biffed the onsight and need to go back for a second look at the real meat and potatoes.

Pulling the crux leaves you directly in line with the bolts and very well protected. I think the crux to be height dependent when using the beta I got it with... maybe 12b for shorter people.

Stellar climbing. A bit loose but will of course clean up with traffic (it's nearly clean now with only a handful of ascents). where a helmet if it's that big of a deal (no one in greg's party of 6 did). The belay stations and access trails definitely need to be improved, and that surely is part of route development.

Don't miss this. I thought it the best route on the wall!
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I really can't argue with anything you've just said Greg (except of course the hand hold on/foot hold off part that would make it highly contrived and is not the case). I'll be perusing your todo list asap, because I have no doubt in my mind that it is loaded with stellar routes. You are spoiled... and that is a GREAT thing to be when discussing the quality of routes you've ticked. I hope to get there someday as well and your list has got to be an excellent way to start!

-eric

P.S. - I didn't learn to sport climb in Boulder.... CCC actually, and no regrets there!
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Aug 31, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I don't understand contrived lines. The holds I used were two feet to the left of the bolts (certainly not off route), and set me up with a left hand crimp in a runnel and a big throw to the shelf with your feet on the face. This is the efficient way to climb it, doing anything else is just climbing with bad beta. Forcing routes to be harder than they are is contrived and is more like bouldering. The beauty of route climbing is figuring out the easiest most efficient way to the top of the wall. The way I did this was definitely 12a, at least by Boulder Canyon standards. If you avoid the very obvious positive left hand runnel, I'm sure this route would be 12b. Overall, a super classic line regardless with good rock that has cleaned up nicely and a fun sequence that flows really well. Awesome.