The Bush League
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The upper crux
The Bush League climbs like two routes in one. It starts with good holds on a vertical wall that disappear just before the fourth bolt. One or two hard moves leads to a large ledge. It is possible to camp here, so you might want to bring a chair and six pack to enjoy the scenery while you recover fully.
Set off up an overhanging face with jugs to the top.
This is just left of the big cave at the north wall.
10 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.
The tall guy way.
Big moves on big holds!
Not to be missed (or skipped)....
Coming to an cra...
|Comments on The Bush League
|By Chris Archer|
Jul 14, 2008
Terrific route. The opening crux, which can be easily avoided to the left, felt like 12b after some tries working out an inobvious sequence. The second half of the route is among the best in the area. A boulder problem at the 2d bolt off the ledge leads to fun climbing with big moves to big, sometimes hidden, holds. 12a on its own.
|By Matt Battaglia|
Aug 2, 2008
I'll agree that the contrived variation (staying in the direct plum-line of the 1st 4 bolts and not busting a left to jugs) is quite hard for 12a. 12b seems like the right rating for the lower sequence I worked out. The upper jug sequence is way easier. Some folks I was climbing with dared to say 11b/c without the direct start. Oh, we broke 2 holds and 2 feet off this route today.
|By Nate Adams|
Aug 26, 2008
Matt, Chris - glad to hear you enjoyed the route! That lower crux seems to be nearly on-sight proof. I got on it again this summer and had to work out the sequence all over again. From my vantage point, however, I would have to say that the "contrived variation" is busting out left. :)
I broke a footer myself - it sounds like the lower section could be getting harder.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Aug 26, 2008
I have never been on it, but I know contrived when I am climbing something that is. If you find yourself asking yourself if the holds are on, then it is contrived or forced. Not the end of the world just not as good as a line that isn't. Sounds like a good route despite the bottom's ambiguity.
|By Nate Adams|
Oct 3, 2008
Normally, when a post begins with "I have never been on it, but...", I would dismiss it as the rantings of someone craving attention. But I'm bored, and craving attention, so here goes. Eric, by definition, all climbing routes are contrived. Every route ever done, sport, trad or otherwise, has been contrived by someone, even the boldest, hardest solos. Which makes the sport of climbing somewhat of a contrivance, albeit a damn fine way to waste precious time.
So, step away from the computer, climb down off the couch, visit Lime Creek and climb the many contrivances you will find there. Nobody will (hopefully) 'force' you to use this hold, or that hold, or stay strictly to a particular sequence - you're even welcome to step on bolts, pull on draws and train your belayer to tug on the rope at just the right "moment". Hell, I won't even be offended if you don't like any of my contrivances. Climb on!
Jul 13, 2009
Ya know, I don't like contrived lines either, AND THIS IS CERTAINLY NOT ONE OF THEM. I feel the need to defend this route, even in opposition to the friend I climbed it with. The only thing I could say if this line had not been bolted would be what a waste! It's a great line. Going left from the 3rd bolt is appealing during the onsight attempt, especially after having taken a good look at a very difficult and technical crux to the right, but having gone left, the climber now finds him/herself on still very, very difficult ground, perhaps harder. It is at this point that it becomes very easy to go even further left, get completely off route with simple and easy stems and jugs galore, and not be worried in the slightest about the nasty fall you would take (if you were actually climbing something one might fall on). I could traverse over to several neighboring routes and climb 5.8 comfortably to avoid cruxes, but being nearly 10 feet away HORIZONTALLY from the bolt means you biffed the onsight and need to go back for a second look at the real meat and potatoes.
Pulling the crux leaves you directly in line with the bolts and very well protected. I think the crux to be height dependent when using the beta I got it with... maybe 12b for shorter people.
Stellar climbing. A bit loose but will of course clean up with traffic (it's nearly clean now with only a handful of ascents). where a helmet if it's that big of a deal (no one in greg's party of 6 did). The belay stations and access trails definitely need to be improved, and that surely is part of route development.
Don't miss this. I thought it the best route on the wall!
Jul 13, 2009
I really can't argue with anything you've just said Greg (except of course the hand hold on/foot hold off part that would make it highly contrived and is not the case). I'll be perusing your todo list asap, because I have no doubt in my mind that it is loaded with stellar routes. You are spoiled... and that is a GREAT thing to be when discussing the quality of routes you've ticked. I hope to get there someday as well and your list has got to be an excellent way to start!
P.S. - I didn't learn to sport climb in Boulder.... CCC actually, and no regrets there!