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 ADVANCED
South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Buttress Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
NOVA T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Balless Boltchoppers 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tom Cecil & Jerod
Page Views: 1,847
Submitted By: Tom Cecil on Aug 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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About 2/3s of the way up The Balless Boltchoppers.

Description 

Mixed route right of Prune. Start at the obvious small right facing flake/corner 10' right of Prune. Climb straight up to to the ledge, the first bolt is rather high but the holds are good. Since the West face of the South Peak has relatively few bolted routes near the ground, I didn't want to put the first bolt to close to the ground. This route was done on-site and bolted from hooks when stances were unavailable. In the middle of the route you may want to place a 1-1.5 inch piece.

Location 

South Peak West face. about ten feet right of 'The Prune'

Protection 

6 bolts and an optional 1-1.5" piece about 40' up.


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Start of The Balless Boltchoppers.  I threw in a s...
Start of The Balless Boltchoppers. I threw in a s...

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By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

...I seem to remember seeing an old guide book that had this route listed as "Seneca Days". At that time a "X" rated trad route. But I could just be confused.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Also, I used this route to pass a much slower team of three who had just started Prune. It makes a quick start to the 2nd and best pitch of Prune.
By Adam Marcus
From: Arlington, VA
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I've always heard this route referred to as Seneca Daze/Seneca Days or Acksaw. The crux seems to be the mental game of getting to the first bolt.

One of the "bolts" is a rusty old pin and ring that might not take a lead fall. There's a pair of nice bolt anchors with rap rings at the top.

If you get gripped while climbing, move 1-3 feet to the right where there are lots of corners with good horizontal ledges, but then it wouldn't be a 5.7 and you may not be able to reach the next bolt.

The start is between Prune and Le Gourmet, where the trail is right up against the wall.
By airingout
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

The first bolt is way high but you can place gear in the first bit behind the flake. I wouldn't recommend making this a sport leaders first trad lead. I was terrified but I pushed and finished.

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