Paiute Wall: Original Route 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 510 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Joanne Urioste and Josh Thompson. March 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Late spring and fall |
| Submitted By: | J. Thompson on Mar 20, 2009 |
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The route follows the obvious line. up through the...
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Description Pitch #1: Begin up a right facing corner on thin finger's and face climbing. Climb over a varnished flake and layback the finger crack above. Conitnue upward through a couple of squeeze chimney's and a bit of face climbing. Belay at a good stance about 8-10ft above a small pine growing out of the rock. Save a #1 & #2 camalot for the belay. 5.9, 190ft.
Pitch #2: Climb a very short distance up then traverse left to reach a polished slab and a left facing corner. follow the corner up finding good gear and holds in a crack on the right. Belay at a sloping stance directly below the obvious steep, black cracks of the third pitch. The belay takes 1" pieces. 5.9, 130ft.
Pitch #3: Start climbing the left of the 2 cracks above, aiming for a chimney about 30ft up. Climb the chimney for 15ft. Pull out of the chimney and climb the hand and fist crack. Near the top of the pitch, and the wall, you will pull into an exit chimney. Climb to a tree at it's top and belay. You may want a couple of medium size cams for the belay. 5.10a/b, 190ft.
Location The Original route of the Paiute Wall is located on the northern edge of the main east face.
It is the obvious crack and corner system. You step over the exit chimney's on the Bridge mountain trail.
Protection Nuts 1 set.
Cams 1 green Alien.
2 Sets Yellow Alien through #4 Camalot.
Showing the belay at the end of pitch #2.
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Looking back at the slick slab on Pitch 2.
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Getting into the short chimney on Pitch 3.
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Starting pitch 3
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The traverse to start pitch #2.
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Joanne getting into the exit chimney.
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Here is a pic of the route from last year. Notice...
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| Comments on Paiute Wall: Original Route |
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 20, 2009
| This is a great crack climb. Almost every size is represented and the rock is quite good. This is a great place to get away from other people and see some of the best views in all of Red rock.
josh |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 20, 2009
| There you go bro.......
josh |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Mar 23, 2009
| Wonderful! Joanne has been dreaming about that wall for over 20 years! I've been stealing glances at it ever since she mentioned it in her little Red Book. |
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d PG13
| I have been scouting this wall for a few years and had actually scoped the route. Unfortunately the venerable Joanne and Josh plucked the first ascent of this unclimbed wall.
In any case we did the 2nd ascent of the route this last weekend. The first pitch had some nice climbing but also some pretty poor rock and the second was worse. The last pitch is much better containing fun but engaging climbing. It is pretty full-on 5.10 and I would rate it more .10+. It is steep, strenuous, long, and a bit dirty in places. I found myself running it out 30ft or more for most of the pitch. It mostly consists of a wide crack with a fin of rock inside that allows for jamming on either side. Although this allows for hand size gear placements they may not be great pieces. My partner broke a large portion of this fin off in which I had placed a cam.
Overall its not a classic but is a proud ascent of one of the last unclimbed walls. I have approached the route from both the valley floor and from the top. Both seem to about the same amount of work, time, and have equally interesting views. |
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d PG13
| Upon further discussion with Josh I wanted to clarify and add a few notes to the discussion.
It appears that we did a much crappier variation of the second pitch. Instead of heading out onto a glossy slab on the left we went straight up though a chossy chimney. Looking at Josh's pic of the second pitch I would say that the original route looks much better.
I would also like to mention that the approach we took from the top was not the one mentioned above. While we also used the bridge mtn saddle to descend into the canyon we started much lower down the rocky gap road and so had a longer hike in than the one described in the profile above.
If you were to do the original 2nd pitch line it might raise the star value a point or two.
Overall if your looking for some spectacular views of redrocks from above and a fun climb with amazing position you should add this route to your list. |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 9, 2009
| Congrats on the second ascent!
Sorry your plan for the day didn't work out.
That chimney variation you did on the second pitch is crazy!
josh |
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