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Lives of Quiet Desperation
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C2 R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Shakespearean Theatre & Revolution Buttress
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Butterfly McQueens' Birthday TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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In a Pickle T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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It's Greek to Me T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jamuary T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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King Fear T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lives of Quiet Desperation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 R |
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Mind Meld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Much Ado About Bolting S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Revolution, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Richard, The Turd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shakespur S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Taming of The Shoe, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Two Hangdogs of Verona, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Dan Mottinger, 2/13/2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,555 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Mottinger on Feb 18, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Lives of Quiet Desperation ascends the crack splitting the prominent roof between the Shakespearean Theatre and Revolution Buttress. The crack system is nearly continuous from the base of the climb to the rim-top, though it peters out near the start of the roof; therein the crux is getting established in the crack system proper.
The climb starts from a critter-shit covered ledge 10' above the ground reached by 5.easy climbing. The first, committing move makes use of a pocket large-enough for a single cam in a soft-rotting flake--part of which repeatedly kept flaking away with moderate funkness testing of tricam placements. During an earlier FA attempt, this first piece failed, with a ground-fall ensuing (thus the 'R' rating). The next move or two are also C2 before getting into C1 placements in good rock, with each of the opening moves having ground fall potential if blown. If not for the marginal quality of the start, this climb would get more stars; once into the good crack, the climb is much more aesthetic.
Continuing out to the lip of the roof, additional cruxes are encountered surmounting the lip of the main roof, and two smaller roof bulges above. Getting over the main roof exits out a somewhat-flared crack (tricams useful) that leads into a widening crack above. The second bulge required a few awkward free moves (5.8ish) into a wide OWish crack that curves into a horizontal crack (a single OW sized piece could help aid this-C4 #6). The next bulge widens to a #4 camalot size before getting thinner again for the final bulge that surmounts the rim.
A few notes:
-Rope drag is an issue if not soloing.
-The lip of the route is subject to water draining during snow melt--probably best to save it for a dry day.
-The aid rating given here takes into account the quality of a few key placments that have ground-fall potential.
-There are some previous swallows nests on this roof, minimize disturbances if these nests are active (in addition to any raptor closures).
-A conscious effort was made to make the FA using clean placements, nailing would compromise some of the clean placements used.
-Cleaning requires aiding the roof while seconding (with some fall potential) or doing some trickery while rappelling and down-aiding a few placements.
The climb starts from a critter-shit covered ledge 10' above the ground reached by 5.easy climbing. The first, committing move makes use of a pocket large-enough for a single cam in a soft-rotting flake--part of which repeatedly kept flaking away with moderate funkness testing of tricam placements. During an earlier FA attempt, this first piece failed, with a ground-fall ensuing (thus the 'R' rating). The next move or two are also C2 before getting into C1 placements in good rock, with each of the opening moves having ground fall potential if blown. If not for the marginal quality of the start, this climb would get more stars; once into the good crack, the climb is much more aesthetic.
Continuing out to the lip of the roof, additional cruxes are encountered surmounting the lip of the main roof, and two smaller roof bulges above. Getting over the main roof exits out a somewhat-flared crack (tricams useful) that leads into a widening crack above. The second bulge required a few awkward free moves (5.8ish) into a wide OWish crack that curves into a horizontal crack (a single OW sized piece could help aid this-C4 #6). The next bulge widens to a #4 camalot size before getting thinner again for the final bulge that surmounts the rim.
A few notes:
-Rope drag is an issue if not soloing.
-The lip of the route is subject to water draining during snow melt--probably best to save it for a dry day.
-The aid rating given here takes into account the quality of a few key placments that have ground-fall potential.
-There are some previous swallows nests on this roof, minimize disturbances if these nests are active (in addition to any raptor closures).
-A conscious effort was made to make the FA using clean placements, nailing would compromise some of the clean placements used.
-Cleaning requires aiding the roof while seconding (with some fall potential) or doing some trickery while rappelling and down-aiding a few placements.
Protection
Stoppers, double set of TCUs/similar, 2x 0.5 C4, 2-3x 0.75 C4, 3 #1 C4, 2-3 #2 C4, 3 #3 C4, 2 #4 C4, maybe 1 #5 C4. A few medium-sized tricams. Wire brush. Some of the cams in this rack needed to be back cleaned.
The anchor on top can be built with gear (few hand-sized + pieces) or there are two trees 50' back from the lip (long slings or anchor rope).
The anchor on top can be built with gear (few hand-sized + pieces) or there are two trees 50' back from the lip (long slings or anchor rope).
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