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This route takes a line up one of the most impressive pieces of rock in the Swell. All the pitches give sustained difficulty with excellent protection. A perfect sandstone introduction for sport climbers who climb to this grade or above. All pro bolts were placed on lead from natural stances.
On November 6th 2010 Bateman and Ross returned and Bateman reclimbed all the pitches without a fall. The route is left of another difficult Bateman /Folsom climb Wandering Poet.
P1)Starts about 100'left of The Wandering Poet by a light gray 8'high slab of rock. Climb past 16 bolts to a hanging belay and double anchors. A superb sustained pitch. 180' 5.12a
P2)Move left and climb over a small bulge and follow pro bolts up the black rock trending right to hanging belay and double anchors.80'5.11a
P3)Follow a slightly rising bolted traverse left to a hanging belay below the open groove.80'5.11a.
P4)Follow the crack under the overhang to enter the groove ,some cam placements plus bolts on this pitch. Up the groove to hanging belay and double anchors.80' 5.11a.
P5)Climb left to another difficlt groove/crack fault that leads steeply over the headwall, then an easier 20' slab that leads to double anchors ...the summit and fine views across the desert.80'5.11+.
Descent. A single rope rap from the top anchors to the belay at the start of P5,from here a long two rope rap to the belay at the top of the first pitch ,then one two rope rap from here to the ground.
The Climb is located in the Little Spotted Wolf Canyon .Drive 2 miles up a good dirt road from the I.70 interstate to a pull off and camping place/trail head on the right... just before a wash. From here walk towards the obvious canyon mouth ,walk through the canyon to the massive steep wall on the right, scramble up the talus for about 300' to the small 6' light gray slab of rock below the climb.The route starts about 100' left of another difficult Bateman/Folsom route Wandering Poet.See topo photo.
At least 16 quick draws, one each of cams from 1" to 4" ,slings,medium stopper, two 60m ropes for rappels.
Lance starting the difficulties of the first pitch...
Higher on P1.
Lance higher on P1. The photos of the climbers whe...
Lance at the belay top of P1
Paul doing his best on the first pitch ! Where's t...
Starting second pitch.
Lance starting P3 . Second Ascent November pic.
Third Pitch. Lance on the first ascent placing pro...
Same Pitch 3.... second ascent Nov 6th
He was there again ..Hanging belay of third pitch....
Looking back down third pitch to the hanging belay...
Lance at the hanging belay at the start of the for...
Starting P4 ,crack leads into an open groove.
Paul coming up the groove of the forth pitch. Phot...
On the second ascent Lance starting the final pitc...
View East from the belay of the final pitch,note y...
Higher on the 5.11+ final pitch
Lance topping out on the FA of the final pitch
On the descent looking down on Lance from Pitch 4
Climber on the belay of the final pitch. Click to ...
Dawn..herds of cattle on the Reef.Wonder what they...
BETA PHOTO: Beatiful morning from the Little Spotted Wolf camp...
A climber can be seen on the skyline rapping about...
Nov 8, 2010
How much sun does this get in Dec? This whole area looks amazing. Nice work guys. Ben once told me Wandering Poet is a fantastic line. Sounds like this one might be too.
Nov 9, 2010
I would guess at least 5 hours and yes the place is great.
|By Ben Ricketts|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 5, 2011
This route sounds awesome. Nice work guys. I will have to get down and try this one. Shouldn't this be posted in the Little Spotted Wolf canyon section?
|By lance bateman|
Mar 8, 2011
Brick, If your interested in this route I could recommend some others
That might be a better intro to the harder climbing on the reef. There
are a few good ones not listed on MP.
Innominate has some very thin tenuous climbing on the first pitch, and the higher pitches have less than stellar rock making the whole thing
a bit more of a trial than doing a few 12a sport pitches. Although,
if your into that sort of thing it is a fairly steep wild line.