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B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon)
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Innominate T,S 
Angle of Repose T,S 
Bonawaim T,S 
Cry Wolf T 
Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 T 
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Great North Ridge, The T 
Hot Buttered Popcorn with Salt T 
Laughing Lizard, The T 
Naked Truth., The T 
Ranting Ravens. T 
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Rebus 5.10 T,S 
Rosco's Delight T 
Scorpion Slab T 
Seaside Stroll T 
Sidewinder  T 
Super Crack of the Reef T 
Wandering Poet T 
Windstorm Grove T 

Innominate 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lance Bateman Paul Ross.17th Oct 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,761
Submitted By: USBRIT on Nov 8, 2010

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On the descent looking down on Lance from Pitch 4

Description 

This route takes a line up one of the most impressive pieces of rock in the Swell. All the pitches give sustained difficulty with excellent protection. A perfect sandstone introduction for sport climbers who climb to this grade or above. All pro bolts were placed on lead from natural stances.
On November 6th 2010 Bateman and Ross returned and Bateman reclimbed all the pitches without a fall. The route is left of another difficult Bateman /Folsom climb Wandering Poet.
P1)Starts about 100'left of The Wandering Poet by a light gray 8'high slab of rock. Climb past 16 bolts to a hanging belay and double anchors. A superb sustained pitch. 180' 5.12a
P2)Move left and climb over a small bulge and follow pro bolts up the black rock trending right to hanging belay and double anchors.80'5.11a
P3)Follow a slightly rising bolted traverse left to a hanging belay below the open groove.80'5.11a.
P4)Follow the crack under the overhang to enter the groove ,some cam placements plus bolts on this pitch. Up the groove to hanging belay and double anchors.80' 5.11a.
P5)Climb left to another difficlt groove/crack fault that leads steeply over the headwall, then an easier 20' slab that leads to double anchors ...the summit and fine views across the desert.80'5.11+.

Descent. A single rope rap from the top anchors to the belay at the start of P5,from here a long two rope rap to the belay at the top of the first pitch ,then one two rope rap from here to the ground.

Location 

The Climb is located in the Little Spotted Wolf Canyon .Drive 2 miles up a good dirt road from the I.70 interstate to a pull off and camping place/trail head on the right... just before a wash. From here walk towards the obvious canyon mouth ,walk through the canyon to the massive steep wall on the right, scramble up the talus for about 300' to the small 6' light gray slab of rock below the climb.The route starts about 100' left of another difficult Bateman/Folsom route Wandering Poet.See topo photo.

Protection 

At least 16 quick draws, one each of cams from 1" to 4" ,slings,medium stopper, two 60m ropes for rappels.


Photos of Innominate Slideshow Add Photo
Lance starting the difficulties of the first pitch. FA on sight ground up.
Lance starting the difficulties of the first pitch...
Higher on P1.
Higher on P1.
He was there again ..Hanging belay of third pitch.Photo Lance Bateman
He was there again ..Hanging belay of third pitch....
A climber can be seen on the skyline rapping about half way down the 4th pitch.Click twice to enlarge.
A climber can be seen on the skyline rapping about...
Paul doing his best on the first pitch ! Where's the bloody holds...Nov 6th pic.Photo Lance Bateman
Paul doing his best on the first pitch ! Where's t...
Starting second pitch.
Starting second pitch.
On the second ascent Lance starting the final pitch
On the second ascent Lance starting the final pitc...
On P2
On P2
Starting P4 ,crack leads into an open groove.
Starting P4 ,crack leads into an open groove.
Lance starting P3 . Second Ascent November pic.
Lance starting P3 . Second Ascent November pic.
Higher on the 5.11+ final pitch
Higher on the 5.11+ final pitch
Third Pitch. Lance on the first ascent placing pro on lead. 17th Oct climb.
Third Pitch. Lance on the first ascent placing pro...
Lance at the belay top of P1
Lance at the belay top of P1
Same Pitch 3.... second ascent Nov 6th
Same Pitch 3.... second ascent Nov 6th
Paul coming up the groove of the forth pitch. Photo Lance Bateman
Paul coming up the groove of the forth pitch. Phot...
Lance higher on P1. The photos of the climbers when in Red where taken on the 6th of Nov when Lance returned to do a repeat ascent of the climb to confirm its grade.
Lance higher on P1. The photos of the climbers whe...
View East from the belay of the final pitch,note yellow arrow ..points to the two trucks at camp. Double click to enlarge.
View East from the belay of the final pitch,note y...
Dawn..herds of cattle on the Reef.Wonder what they eat ,or what they don't eat ?
Dawn..herds of cattle on the Reef.Wonder what they...
Lance topping out on the FA of the final pitch
Lance topping out on the FA of the final pitch
A) Innominate 5.12a. B)Start of Wandering Poet 5.12.Double click for full size.
A) Innominate 5.12a. B)Start of Wandering Poet 5.1...
Climber on the belay of the final pitch. Click to enlarge
Climber on the belay of the final pitch. Click to ...
Lance at the hanging belay at the start of the forth pitch. FA pic 17th OCT
Lance at the hanging belay at the start of the for...
Beatiful morning from the Little Spotted Wolf camp site.
BETA PHOTO: Beatiful morning from the Little Spotted Wolf camp...
Looking back down third pitch to the hanging belay.First ascent photo Nov 6th. Photo Lance Bateman
Looking back down third pitch to the hanging belay...

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Comments on Innominate Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Nov 8, 2010

How much sun does this get in Dec? This whole area looks amazing. Nice work guys. Ben once told me Wandering Poet is a fantastic line. Sounds like this one might be too.
By apross
Nov 9, 2010

I would guess at least 5 hours and yes the place is great.
By Ben Ricketts
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 5, 2011

This route sounds awesome. Nice work guys. I will have to get down and try this one. Shouldn't this be posted in the Little Spotted Wolf canyon section?
By lance bateman
Mar 8, 2011


Brick, If your interested in this route I could recommend some others
That might be a better intro to the harder climbing on the reef. There
are a few good ones not listed on MP.

Innominate has some very thin tenuous climbing on the first pitch, and the higher pitches have less than stellar rock making the whole thing
a bit more of a trial than doing a few 12a sport pitches. Although,
if your into that sort of thing it is a fairly steep wild line.