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Holiday Block
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Gravy Train T 
Chimney Approach T 
Cinco de Mayo T 
Cruise This S 
Launchitude T 
Mark's Menace T 
My Dog Has Fleas S 
Never Believe S 
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Pigs in Zen (Tuesday's Gone) S 
Plush S 
Pump Handles T 
Rabies S 
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That Eight (aka Kennel Club) S 
They Call Me Cruiser T 
Walking the Dog T 

Gravy Train 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,770
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Larry gathers himself for a big move on Gravy Trai...

Description 

Gravy Train starts in Alabama - climbing conglomerated flakes and pockets, but transports you to the Gunks - climbing great horizontals before finishing at a big horn.

Location 

Located on the valley side of the Holiday Block...far left side when facing the formation...next to Oyster (sport climb)

Protection 

Trad rack, thin gear, slings. No anchors...sling the horn.


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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This rivals Comfortably Numb as one of the best trad routes at Sand Rock. Plentiful protection and great interesting moves from top to bottom. My first 5.10 gear lead. Cowabunga!
By Chris Blanchard
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Dixie Cragger's Atlas has the difficulty for this route and Oyster switched. According to Johnny Arms (the king of Sandrock) - he told me Gravy Train is 11a and Oyster is 10a. It might be graded a little sandbagged, but words of the king stand.

Also when I climbed this route back in April, there were anchors at the top (closed shuts).
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Chris Blanchard wrote:
Dixie Cragger's Atlas has the difficulty for this route and Oyster switched. According to Johnny Arms (the king of Sandrock) - he told me Gravy Train is 11a and Oyster is 10a. It might be graded a little sandbagged, but words of the king stand. Also when I climbed this route back in April, there were anchors at the top (closed shuts).


Chris, the Cragger definitely has the routes mixed up, but you're confusing things even more. It sounds like the "words of the king" got lost in translation somehow.

The routes at the left end of the Holiday Block's south side are:

Gravy Train (5.10a) -- furthest left route. This is a trad lead and is by no stretch of the imagination a 5.11; really, it's a little soft for 10a. Also, the route has no anchors, so whatever you climbed in April was another route. The description in the Cragger for Gravy Train actually belongs with Oyster.
Oyster (5.10a) -- just right of Gravy Train. This is a sport route and does have anchors. As noted above, this route is mistakenly identified as Gravy Train in the Cragger.
Walking the Dog (5.9) -- right of Oyster. Another trad line, it also has anchors.
Rabies (5.11a) -- right of Walking the Dog. A tough sport route with anchors at the top. This is the one that the Dixie Cragger mistakenly labelled as Oyster.

Hopefully that will clear things up for you.

JL
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Aug 4, 2012

Well...guess the "king" was wrong. Hmmm...image that.
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This is actually Oyster.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 8, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

nevermind wrote:
This is actually Oyster.

Uh, no. This is actually Gravy Train. Re-read my earlier explanation.

JL
By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
May 31, 2015

Someone has installed bolts and rings on the ledge to the right of the horn. Probably still best to use the horn as a toprope anchor (or at least a directional) as it keeps the rope running free. But getting down is now very convenient.
By Brandon.Phillips
From: Double Springs, AL
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This description lead me to have a little confusion about which route is which. The newest version of the Dixie Cragger seems to have them in the right place. Saxfiend's order of the routes are accurate, but there are some new anchors with rap rings (from left to right):

Gravy Train (5.10a) -- furthest left route. Anchors with rap rings to the right of the horn. Fun route and soft for a 10a. This is a distinctly different route than Oyster.

Oyster (5.10a) -- just right of Gravy Train. This is a sport route and has anchors with rap rings. The newest edition of the Dixie Cragger has this labeled correctly in the photo.

Walking the Dog (5.9) -- right of Oyster. Trad, anchors with rap rings.

Rabies (5.11a) -- right of Walking the Dog. sport with anchors.
By jthmmdom
Jan 18, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely not 11a. It is a beginner's 5.10.

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