Geezer Pleaser  5.13d R

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Type:  Trad, 65 feet Consensus:  5.13d [details] FA:  Joe Terravecchia, Will Carey. Nov 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Joe Terravecchia on Dec 22, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Will C midway through the crux.

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Description 

Great climbing and one of the most difficult all gear protected routes in New England. The meat of the climb is a V 9ish boulder problem at mid height involving a series of very powerful opposing side pulls to either a long low percentage dyno ( Will C) or several more difficult face moves (Joe T) to the horizontal. Blow the last bit before the horizontal and you'll take a 25' - 30' lob. If the small cam pulls, a bomber offset nut will keep you off the ground.
The route tops out so the anchors are set back from the edge. Bring 6' slings if intending to TR.

Location 

Between the BBB route and Moe Howard Died For Our Sins.
Right facing corner and flakes to steep face.

Protection 

Small to medium cams and a #9 HB or DMM offset nut.
All gear was placed free and on lead.

DO NOT PLACE ANY PINS OR FIX ANY GEAR ON THIS ROUTE.

Photos of Geezer Pleaser Slideshow

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Joe T at the horizontal just above the crux.	The geezer falling on the good cams at the 1st h...	Will on the thin face at the top.
Will, one move shy of a redpoint.	We used a prototype .3 X4 Camalot to protect the...