Eye of the Beholder 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, 2/10 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Great on cooler days |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010 |
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Looking up from the first anchor(note the A shaped...
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description As the name implies, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This route climbs much better than it may at first appear. In fact the climbing is excellent. You may choose to do this route in 4,5, or 6 pitches. Doing it in 4 requires a 70m rope or simul climbing 15' on the first and a bit on the last. The route starts out with enjoyable climbing, 5.6, following broken rock and cracks to a bolted station about 75' up. Belay here or continue up a left facing corner. Move out right at the end of the corner and follow discontinuous cracks and seams to an A shaped roof. Climb the right side of the A into a finger crack that ends at a comfy bolted belay. Get your stoppers ready, the next pitch likes to eat up small to medium size nuts, preferably offsets. Don't miss the sideways nut placement out on the face 35 or so feet up. I also find a spot for a pink tricam at mid height. The pitch finishes with friction climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. At this point the crux is 5.9 at most and takes great protection. But the next 2 pitches are much harder with a few runout sections. The next pitch starts out with a short 5.11 section at the first bolt then gets much easier, though runout, passing three more bolts as you angle left to a 2 bolt anchor. The last pitch angles back right with several thin 5.10 moves, eventually ending at the last anchor on Stone Quest.
Location This route is located between Farm Alarm and Cool Cliff 170(see Reid guide)
Protection Micro cams to # 2 Camalots with extra small to med stoppers(offsets nice)
Mike on the third pitch of Eye of the Beholder
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BETA PHOTO: Here's a photo of a poorly drawn topo
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Mike coming up
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Start of the 3rd Pitch if you link pitches 1&2
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Further up the slab
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Nearing the anchor
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| Comments on Eye of the Beholder |
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By Osprey
From: ...
Feb 28, 2010
| I ran a mini traction on the first pitch when the route was still being cleaned and set up. I was happy with the quality and it looked even better higher up. This was in the early winter '08. |
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 24, 2011
| Climbed only first 3 pitches, did not have time to finish - short winter days. Linked p1,2 .
On P3 I run out of small gear - take all you have from black to yellow aliens. Pitch 3 is more than 150 feet- I know for sure since my 80M rope was not sufficient to rappel. Very interesting climb |
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 28, 2011
| Noticed this line yesterday while rapping Stone Quest and peering over the arete. Looks like a lot of gear was left on the upper pitches, maybe someone had to bail because of wx? An intriguing line that I'll check out in the future.
No FA info on this climb? Did you bolt this route, OP?
Thanks. |
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