Eye of the Beholder
|781 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, 2/10|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Great on cooler days|
|Submitted By: ||Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010|
Looking up from the first anchor(note the A shaped...
As the name implies, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This route climbs much better than it may at first appear. In fact the climbing is excellent. You may choose to do this route in 4,5, or 6 pitches. Doing it in 4 requires a 70m rope or simul climbing 15' on the first and a bit on the last. The route starts out with enjoyable climbing, 5.6, following broken rock and cracks to a bolted station about 75' up. Belay here or continue up a left facing corner. Move out right at the end of the corner and follow discontinuous cracks and seams to an A shaped roof. Climb the right side of the A into a finger crack that ends at a comfy bolted belay. Get your stoppers ready, the next pitch likes to eat up small to medium size nuts, preferably offsets. Don't miss the sideways nut placement out on the face 35 or so feet up. I also find a spot for a pink tricam at mid height. The pitch finishes with friction climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. At this point the crux is 5.9 at most and takes great protection. But the next 2 pitches are much harder with a few runout sections. The next pitch starts out with a short 5.11 section at the first bolt then gets much easier, though runout, passing three more bolts as you angle left to a 2 bolt anchor. The last pitch angles back right with several thin 5.10 moves, eventually ending at the last anchor on Stone Quest.
This route is located between Farm Alarm and Cool Cliff 170(see Reid guide)
Micro cams to # 2 Camalots with extra small to med stoppers(offsets nice)
Mike on the third pitch of Eye of the Beholder
BETA PHOTO: Here's a photo of a poorly drawn topo
Mike coming up
Start of the 3rd Pitch if you link pitches 1&2
Further up the slab
Nearing the anchor
|Comments on Eye of the Beholder
Feb 28, 2010
I ran a mini traction on the first pitch when the route was still being cleaned and set up. I was happy with the quality and it looked even better higher up. This was in the early winter '08.
From: San Jose
Jan 24, 2011
Climbed only first 3 pitches, did not have time to finish - short winter days. Linked p1,2 .
On P3 I run out of small gear - take all you have from black to yellow aliens. Pitch 3 is more than 150 feet- I know for sure since my 80M rope was not sufficient to rappel. Very interesting climb
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 28, 2011
Noticed this line yesterday while rapping Stone Quest and peering over the arete. Looks like a lot of gear was left on the upper pitches, maybe someone had to bail because of wx? An intriguing line that I'll check out in the future.
No FA info on this climb? Did you bolt this route, OP?