Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pena de Bernal
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Lado O scuro de la Luna S 
Asuntos Exteriores T 
Bernalina S 
Horizonte de Estrelles S 
Servico Exterior S 
Via del Padre S 

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alfredo Velázquez, R. Becerril
Page Views: 934
Submitted By: Anthony Anagnostou on Dec 24, 2008  with updates from Gunkswest

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
leon islas following one of the first three pitche...

Description 

Fun face climbing on great rock. A steeper angle than 'Bernalina' makes it feel more sporty, but it's still well under vertical, with more hand and footholds than you know what to do with. The mexican beta (xpmexico.com) claims 5.10a, which it may be, but i didn't think it was quite that burly. Other opinions would be greatly appreciated, as all my grades are only estimates. It might be even easier than 5.9, but im not comfortable downgrading the thing two grades.

Roughly:

Pitch 1. ~5.8 to anchors. (i estimate that all three first pitches are more than 30m, but are definitely not rope-stretchers)
Pitch 2. ~5.9 to anchors
Pitch 3. ~5.9 to anchors on shoulder with lots of bolts.
Pitch 4. diagonal left to join the 4th class pitch on bernalina (up a little ways on pitch 3 of bernalina as i describe it). continue up dirty 4th class ramp to ledge with anchors. see bernalina beta for rest of the (5.6ish) climbing.

Location 

As far as I can tell, "El Lado Oscuro de la Luna" is the second bolted line up from where the trail meets the rock, one line to the right of "Bernalina".

Protection 

Red hangers with 3/8" and occasionally 1/2" bolts. Tightly bolted near the ground, and becoming more spaced during the second and third pitches. 14 draws should be fine, and possibly less. SEE COMMENT BELOW. This may be a description of Via del Padre.


Photos of El Lado Oscuro de la Luna Slideshow Add Photo
Peña de Bernal
Peña de Bernal
2nd Pitch
2nd Pitch

Comments on El Lado Oscuro de la Luna Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gunkswest
Jan 4, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

According to the March 2013 guidebook (page 411), the pink hangers/route described herein is actually the climb Via del Padre.

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna is the next climb to the right (uphill about eight feet) of the pink hangers. As of 01-2015, the bolts on El Lado Oscuro de la Luna were predominantly old and rusty.

At least the first two pitches of El Lado Oscuro de la Luna can be rappelled with a single 60m rope.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!