Shane Messer on "O.A" (V-7). cap gun boulder. Left...
Description
The trail through Middle and Left Boneyard is complete!
This massive area is home to some of the best of the best in Grayson Highlands State Park. The Boneyard is an expansion of boulders resting on the mountain side to the right of AVP. The boulderfield is separated into three different sub-areas; The Left Boneyard(LB), Middle Boneyard(MB), and the Right Boneyard (RB). The boulders here are spread out just enough so that even if the areas are crowded it will still feel like you own the place.
The stone here is varied but for the majority you will find that the Metaconglomerate sandstone is pretty sharp. The boneyard in this respect also has its fare share of slopey, desperate top-outs and forearm pumping pinches.
This is an area set away from everyone else except for those who are actively looking to climb and a place that will easily challenge someone climbing at any grade level.
Getting There
To get to the Middle & Right Boneyard, drive OUT of the park entrance (or if you are driving in from HWY16 just keep driving past the park entrance on HWY58) and take a right. Travel on HWY58 for only about a mile and look on your left for the only, single, red brick house with a close white building next to the road.
Directly, just after this you will see a small state maintained, cleared, and graveled pull-off on the left side of the shoulder of the road. Pull off here. If this parking is crowded keep driving to Left Boneyard/AVP. If that is all filled, turn around and drive into GHSP for hundreds of other boulders. Don’t be a jerk and hurt access please!
On the opposite, right side of the road is all GHSP. Walk across the road (you may have to walk back down the road for 30ft or so) and look up the bank for the fence post with the small, black square marker. This marks the start of the Middle/Right Boneyard Trail. Follow these markers all the way through the boulderfield.
To get to Left Boneyard and AVP: Drive out of the park just as described above, but drive past the MBY & RBY parking pull-off. Keep going around the gentle curve in the road and there will be another, even smaller pull-off just before you reach the first guardrail on the left side of the road. Park here. Walk across to the right side of the road to a sometimes overgrown section (there should be a wooden plank over the ditch) of ditch-line where you walk across onto a low block. Walk straight up the gully (not much of a trail) for the LBY, or break left across the bigger low block to a small climber trail that leads you up the hill to the left to reach AVP.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boneyard Area:
"Thews: Muscles and tendons perceived as generating such strength."A personal favorite: "Thews" stand-starts on the lowest section of a geometric arete bulge, with feet on a bad bottom rail. left hand on the "jigsaw piece" flake, right hand pinch crimping on the geometric arete.go up through big moves to crimps/pinches to gain the slopey and exposed top out. top out is above the start and is challenging....V5 for locals......[more]Browse More Classics in VA