This area has some of the strongest climbs in Grayson. The bouldering here is mostly overhanging and powerful with small crimp moves and dynamic link-ups. The "A.V.P" boulder has tons of problems with grades to suit any climber. there are three other boulders on the hill that make up the "A.V.P" area.
The boulder behind the "AVP" Boulder is called the "Hero" Boulder and is slowly becoming a contender for classic problems along with "AVP." The lines here are fantastic, and most go from the low or the stand start.
Behind the Hero Boulder is the Sidekick Boulder, with more fun lines and easy top outs. The lines are mostly short and crimpy.
below the hill are the Boneyard Boulders, in which are separated into several seperate sub-areas.
The best way to describe how to reach the Boneyard & A.V.P area is if you are coming through Damascus, or from Bristol or Asheville; turn into the park and make a u-turn. turn back out of the park back toward the direction you came. as you pass the first house on your left that has a shed/building on the side of the road, and you will also notice a big boulder on the right across from the house's drive way that was cut in half for the road to be built (the house you pass is the first, and only house near the road for a long distance, so there should be no confusion on this). as soon as you pass this house start paying attention and as you round the gentle curve in the road, look for a small pull off on your left which is before the oncoming guardrail. park here.
if you are coming from HWY16, Blacksburg, Charlotte, ect... drive past the entrance and then follow the above directions.
across the road from the pull off is a ditch and then a park boundary fence. jump the fence, and now you are in the Grayson Highlands State Park lands. there should be a large boulder with a small creek running beside of it. if you see all of these things your there. to get to the A.V.P area, look to the left of the roadside boulder with the creek next to it and you will see a small hill. walk up the hill (you will have to cross another fence, but don't worry, it is the old park boundary) and you cant miss the huge boulder you will see, it is the A.V.P. boulder. there will be another huge boulder behind it. this is the A.V.P. area.
(This line starts very low. off the start move right into the thin crimps and then climb directly up to the lip. For the finish traverse a bit to the right to gain the clean knobs to the mantle.) Sit start low and almost under the boulder on the large jug slot. Move right onto the two crimp-slashes big enough for four fingers and with enough purchase for 3/4s of a pad for each finger. Either Bump through or make a big dyno move with your left hand up and out to another crimp overhead (crux).Move...[more]Browse More Classics in VA