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Member Since: Jul 14, 2009
Last Visit: Jun 22, 2010
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Total Points: 406
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 146 | Routes 32 | Areas 2 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 51 | Posts | Stars 52 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Granola (5.8+)
By: ziggy When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: It would be wise if you are afraid of the opening moves to lead Fruit Loops first then place your first piece of gear for Granola on rappel. A fall from the crux moves (the opening moves) would be punishing. You would fall between 10'-25' into a Chimney system.


Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : Any suggestions on a first ... : Post : Photo
By: ziggy When: Feb 11, 2010

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Comments: the lighting in this photo is great!


Location: General Climbing : What's wrong with this pict... : Post : Photo
By: ziggy When: Feb 9, 2010

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Comments: hmmm, something looks off about that one hold.....WTF?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag (CLOSED) : Photo
By: ziggy When: Jan 25, 2010

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Comments: This photo makes the 5.10 wall look like a juggy slab crag!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall : American Crack (5.6)
By: ziggy When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: I thought this thing was dirty, and the rock quality left something to be desired. Probably a 5.5 considering the other routes at this crag.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Mr. Bungle (5.8)
By: ziggy When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: It's not that bad, it is actually pretty fun. A nice long route with some slopers, and even a fun little roof move near the top. Soft for the grade, probably a 5.7.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Fast Food Christians (5.10a)
By: ziggy When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: An Ok route. If you like the face climbing on Face Up to That Crack, then you will find this one to be enjoyable as well. If you are too weak to pull the crux, then you can stick clip the first bolt and batman up, then enjoy nice 5.7 slab climbing to the anchors.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Face Up To That Crack (5.8-)
By: ziggy When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: Not any harder than 5.8, it's just that it's neighbor Mr. Bungle is soft for the grade. Since it seems to me that most sport climbers have no clue how to hand jam, I would recommend bringing a cam for the crux.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Southern Boys Don't Wear Pl... (5.11a/b)
By: ziggy When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: The crux section protects well with 0.4" pieces. Placing the gear can be pumpy so don't fool around too much.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Chicken Head City (5.9)
By: ziggy When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: Not a bad route. There are some wild moves near the top. After climbing the dihedral, look for the chicken heads over the roof. Pull over the exciting roof and run it out on easier slab climbing to the pine tree above. A set of camalots from 0.5-3, a set of stoppers, and some long slings are needed. Definitely a rope drag nightmare.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Fruit Loops (5.7+)
By: ziggy When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: Very fun flake climbing that is easier than it looks. The crux is low, right before you get to the first horizontal shelf jug. Bring plenty of gear in the 0.4-0.5" range for the bottom and a few smaller pieces for the top. The second pitch looks fun but I haven't tried it yet.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Shredded Wheat (5.11a)
By: ziggy When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: I didn't find this route to be as sustained as is mentioned in the description. The crux section is obvious from the ground, and is about 10 ft long. The rest of the route is actually quite easy. Rattly finger jams and bad feet make this thing tricky for a few moves.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag
By: ziggy When: Jan 7, 2010

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Comments: One of my favorite crags at the RRG. A lot of good routes, classic 10's, 11's, 12's, and reportedly 13's. If you only can make it to a few walls on your visit, then this one should top the list.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : The Nose (5.8)
By: ziggy When: Dec 30, 2009

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Comments: A few notes on the comments above. The crux is on the second pitch, but can be well protected with a pink tricam or yellow metolius tcu or equivalent. The placement is polished but solid, and is literally right before the move. I rarely even clip the piton mentioned above. Also, I place a #3 Camalot on the 1st pitch, so you can bring one if you like.

The 1st pitch is rated 5.5, but doesn't feel any easier than the 5.7 4th pitch. I am not sure if this is because the 4th pitch is as e... more >>


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Groovin' in the name of the... (5.10c R)
By: ziggy When: Dec 21, 2009

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Comments: With Andrew, December 16th 2009. The climbing on this route is spectacular especially the crux pitch. Really cool diagonal jugs, quartz dikes, and awesome deep water groove climbing makes this route a real gem. The route could use some traffic especially near the top to help clean it off. We tried to remove as much of the lichen as was necessary.

I fear this line will be overlooked due to the fact that it is shorter than many of the classic lines and the R rating might deter some, but it is ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c) : Photo
By: ziggy When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: Jarthur it's you! I would recognize those old-ass anchor quickdraws of yours any day! I have hung them on many a double bolt anchor with you, ahhh, memories!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Manifest Destiny (5.12a)
By: ziggy When: Dec 1, 2009

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Comments: This route is fun. Some of holds were not nearly as great as I thought they were going to be, pumpy for sure.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Manic Impression (5.10a)
By: ziggy When: Dec 1, 2009

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Comments: This route is oh so better than it looks from the ground. don't let the dirty looking start turn you away from this gem!


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Dum Dee Dum Dum (5.10c PG13)
By: ziggy When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: Very fun climbing. Crux move was not to difficult, but definitely should be approached as a lay back instead of trying to jam. I found the move getting into the actual hand crack above the crux to be more difficult.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flakeview Area : Bear Hunt (5.7+)
By: ziggy When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: better than the route to the left of it. it takes nice gear but has some suspect looking rock above the second horizontal for pro. ~3 gear placements if you use the first horizontal that you can reach from the ground, two bolts at the top.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flakeview Area : Bear Cub (5.7)
By: ziggy When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: Decent route, it's got a bolt everywhere you need one. Felt considerably harder than Bear Hunt. If Bear Hunt is a 5.7, then this thing is probably a 5.9.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Playground : Monkey Bars (5.10a)
By: ziggy When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: This is a very fun route, and in my opinion it is one of the steepest 10a's you will ever find! Pure fun and big moves on great holds. It is great to warm up on if you are looking to get on some of the harder and steeper stuff in the area. Nothing to the left of Jungle Gym looks all that great though, so I would probably skip those routes.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall : Bedtime for Bonzo (5.6)
By: ziggy When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: i put my wife on the first pitch of this thing as an easy first trad lead. she had difficulty and when I tried it I could see why. I think the guidebook rates the 1st pitch as a 5.4, and I would say it is stiff for the grade. Not to nit-pick such an easy route, just make sure you don't get in over your head. The crux is getting over the first little bulge.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Make A Wish (5.10a)
By: ziggy When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: not a bad route, the easiest line at drive by. much easier than slick and the 9mm, but only a letter grade easier.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Whip-Stocking (5.11a)
By: ziggy When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: unlike many routes in the red, the start of this one is less dirty and less awkward than usual. the entire route is really good. keep your eye out for 2 no hands rests. I would say no crux, just an endurance test. If you can climb most 10a's in the red then there isn't a move on this thing you will not be able to pull.


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