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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Photo
By: Zed When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture just brought me back thirty years. I remember that routine well. That guy is probably belaying from the top of Recompense or The Prow. Great stuff.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a) : Photo
By: Zed When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was an important photo, so I cleaned it up for you. There is a retouched copy here.
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Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: Zed When: Mar 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Casey wrote: I am a climber, not a mountain biker, but I think everyone should be able to enjoy the land equally.
Excellent attitude, Casey.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Sonic Youth (5.13a)
By: Zed When: Jan 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route definitely felt harder than Head Like A Hole, and I also thought it was harder than Twitch. Twitch and HLAH have one-move cruxes with 12a or less climbing in between, while Sonic Youth stays with you the entire way, IMO.
It just goes to show that routes that are within a letter-grade of one another are going to seem easier or harder, depending on an individual's personal strengths and weaknesses. Either way, SY is a great route - one of the best in CCC.
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks State Park : Castle Rock : East Face : Castles Made of Sand (5.11c) : Photo
By: Zed When: Jan 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked the photo, so I did some color correcting and cropped out your appendage.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: Zed When: Dec 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My fitness level is poor right now, but I would call this every bit of 11+. Probably not 12a, but definitely too hard for mid-range 5.11. It's worth a go for anyone aspiring to lead at this level, because of the closely spaced bolts.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Purple Wall : Pump It Until Purple (5.9)
By: Zed When: Dec 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The routes on this wall climb much better than they look. Fun jug-hauling on a slightly overhanging wall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: Zed When: Dec 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strenuous, awkward moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts. It felt a bit harder than 10a to me. Should definitely challenge most 5.10 climbers.
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Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: Zed When: Nov 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm on Qwest, too.
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Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: Zed When: Nov 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't get it to work on IE, Firefox, Netscape, or Opera.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Rhodian Shores (5.10b)
By: Zed When: Nov 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Simmer (5.9)
By: Zed When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not as fun as Shimmer, IMO. After I pulled the roof, I found myself bushwacking to the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Shimmer (5.9)
By: Zed When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bolt Cola (5.10a)
By: Zed When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route. It felt like the crux was moving past the 3rd bolt. When you get to the overlap (5th bolt), where you can't see the next bolt, stay low and traverse right about ten feet, and then the bolt will come into plain view. It is the last bolt until the anchors, but the climbing above is very easy - 5.6 or so. You could also place gear behind the lieback flake if you're not comfortable running it out twenty feet on easy ground. I was not having a particularly bold day, and the runou... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: Zed When: Nov 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Dave. This route, compared to Chockstone, which I think has a harder and tricker crux move, is pretty straightforward. All the jams and locks are solid.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13)
By: Zed When: Nov 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe someone should replace the missing pin with another pin.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animation aka Jaycene's Dan... (5.8)
By: Zed When: Nov 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.
I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.
A trick that I learned from setting gym ro... more >>
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Location: Mark Cushman : Misc Pictures : Photo
By: Zed When: Nov 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yikes!!!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Mountains closed due to ext...
By: Zed When: Oct 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A news report, released this morning, said that a young boy came forward and admitted to having started thes fires. See the story here.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Mr. Sandman (5.10a)
By: Zed When: Oct 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To the AC who rated this route 5.8: Please post your name so that we can at least direct the laughter at a face.
The move left, before the anchors, is about the same difficulty as Bolting For Glory, which I've done too many times to remember - bigger handholds, but smaller feet and an awkward reach. For first-timers going up to this route, if you approach it thinking that it is 5.9, then expect it to be one of the stiffest 5.9 sport routes around. If, on the other hand, you expect it to be 10a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Free Speech (5.12a)
By: Zed When: Oct 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is 12a to onsight, IMO. I can see how someone getting it wired, and then redpointing it, might think it were easier, but is that really how to rate a route with such short business?
If you go up there, onsight, expect it to feel like easy 5.12.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Chasing Sticks (5.9)
By: Zed When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted.
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Location: John Hegyes : Random Images : Photo
By: Zed When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like a clear sign of color blindness to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock : Let the Daylight In (5.12)
By: Zed When: Oct 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It feels like the crux to me. I was going to glue the hold back on, but I am having second thoughts now that Matt did the route without it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock : Let the Daylight In (5.12)
By: Zed When: Oct 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went up to do this route, today, and I broke this key handhold off. It was a very good hold, and it is now a bad sloper. The route felt like 12Aish with it, but it is solid 5.12 without it. I was up there with Matt Samet, and he was able to redpoint it without the hold. He seems to think it is probably 12b/c now. The third clip is much harder now.
Be very careful standing on the detached blocks at the first bolt. A basketball-size ... more >>
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