Comments: Interesting problem. Not a classic, IMO, although definitely worth a few burns. As far as the grade goes, and they are always subjective at best, TP feels like V8 - not V7. It's harder than Rotund, Valhalla, and several other established problems in the area and others.
The moves down low look easier if you can get the heel-hook. I can't, so the opening sequence up to the good crimp is pretty powerful for me. The problem is also temperature-dependent, so opt for colder than warmer for the turn... more >>
Comments: Interesting, tenuous movement except for the contrived finish. You can easily reach out left to a jug, which makes the finish a relatively easy step-up. If you can reach a hold, it's in, imo.
Comments: Just did this route again, after a three-year climbing hiatus, and it took several tries after a month of fitness training. Then I did it two more times - once as a warm-up, and once at the end of the day. 12a feels more accurate than 5.11. It's definitely not 11b or c. I've climbed hundreds of routes in those ranges, all over the map, so I have a pretty good idea what they feel like. It would be interesting to know how many calling this route mid-5.11 actually onsighted it. I'm inclined to beli... more >>
Comments: Granted, it's a tenuous move, although it's not the heinous sloper pullup that some here are claiming. There are key feet, albeit small, on the lip, which make the crux a static move if done precisely.
I redpointed this route in '93, after a falling twice at the crux on my first and second go. As soon as I ticked the tiny footholds, I sent it next try. It would be a worthy onsight for many strong climbers. It's solid at a/b, and if Downpressor Man, which is very similar in stature, is consider... more >>
Comments: I've always enjoyed this boulder problem on a rope. It has been my standard Coney Island warmup for years. There's not much to it, unless it's at your limit, in which case it will probably get your heart racing for a minute or so. It's worth doing at least once.
Comments: I haven't done this route, although, by Wayne's description of the difficulty directly above the final bolt and beyond that, it sounds like perfectly acceptable, Eldo style.
Captain Crunch comes to mind. You do the crux, clip the last bolt to protect an easy 5.11 move that gets you established on the upper slab, and then run it out on moderate 5.10 climbing to the anchors.It would be a sporty yet safe fall, and it's highly unlike that you'll fall off of those moves after having climbed through... more >>
Comments: The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement.
Comments: Peter makes a good point about the tunnel, and it is an easy fix. There is no need to use tunnel 6. There is a well-groomed path that walks right over it. The consequences of taking the tunnel route, if you aren't very careful and have a low-profile pack, could be deadly, and it's illegal. Just don't do it. Getting your pack snagged on a passing train and being dragged like a rag doll won't do the climbing community any favors. I've been stuck in that tunnel twice with a train, and it's not fun.