Comments: 11d or 12a covers it. The crux beta seemed pretty straightforward (hang slopers, throw right foot onto a mondo edge out right, Reach with right hand to a sinker finger-bucket). Everything below and above that move is mileage.
Comments: Sorry but calling this route 11- is either ego-beta or cluelessness. 11+ might be a bit of an overstatement, although not much. High quality except for the flesh-eating thumbs-down jam at the crux.
Comments: It's short with an interesting boulder problem start. I found some graceful beta off of a tenuous left sidepull. Foot placement and body-tension are important. I thought it was a better warmup for Lucid Dreaming than Mr. Sandman, for instance. Also more convenient. It was pretty dirty, so I gave it a decent brushing. The bolts are placed well, and the crux is engaging enough that it deserves two stars, imo.
I removed the draws from Lucid Dreaming today. They're no longer safe. The one with the square-cut gouge in it was on the third bolt that people whip onto when they blow the lip. Several of the slings are showing visible sun and weather damage. Anyway, whoever owns them is welcome to call or message me, and I'm happy to get them back to you if you're local.
Comments: Interesting problem. Definitely worth a few burns. As far as the grade goes, and they are always subjective at best, TP feels like V8 - not V7. It's harder than Rotund, Valhalla, and several other established problems in the area and others.
The moves down low look easier if you can get the heel-hook. I can't, so the opening sequence up to the good crimp is pretty powerful for me. The problem is also temperature-dependent, so opt for colder than warmer for the turning point sequence.
I'm not going to pad the grade on my score-card, although PG, imo, is pretty hard for V6. I've gone out there with several V10 climbers, none of whom flashed it. Most took at least three goes. The holds are all good, although every move is powerful and they stay on you until after the top-out.
One of the best boulder problems on the Front Range!
Comments: Interesting, tenuous movement except for the contrived finish. You can easily reach out left to a jug, which makes the finish a relatively easy step-up. If you can reach a hold, it's in, imo.