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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Call to Arms (5.12a)
By: Zach Wahrer When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really cool route that is definitely worth getting on if you want some steep climbing at Shelf; however, the finish on this climb is kind of lame. Traversing on death blocks using bat shit covered holds is not all that fun. Why they didn't just put the anchor slightly up and right of the last bolt is beyond me.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Wild Kippers (5.11a/b)
By: Zach Wahrer When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still lots of loose stuff around this route. Belayers, beware! We knocked off several small and medium-sized rocks that could have done some serious damage.
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Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos
By: Zach Wahrer When: Jul 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be aware that it is currently $10 per person, per day for climbing at POB.
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Location: TX : Brownwood
By: Zach Wahrer When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A PDF guide is available here .
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Location: TX : Paluxy River Boulders : The River Boulders : Alpha Group : Bass Boomer (V1-)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Jun 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climb is currently blocked up by drift wood logs. Will need a chain saw and/or a truck to pull them out to clear the way.
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Location: TX : Paluxy River Boulders : The River Boulders : Alpha Group : ship prow (V2+)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Jun 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climb is currently blocked up by drift wood logs. Will need a chain saw and/or a truck to pull them out to clear the way.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Little Dome : Lizardhead Boulders : Pumper Number 9 (5.9+)
By: Zach Wahrer When: May 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a buzzard nesting the the rock corridor to the left of this route. Please stay out of the corridor and off of the associated climbs for awhile so she can raise her chicks in peace.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Little Dome : Lizardhead Boulders : Pumper Number 9 (5.9+)
By: Zach Wahrer When: May 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.9+ start seems a bit sandbagged IMO!
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : The Big Time : Eye Gouger (V0-)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, since you pointed me to the right area in the guidebook, I found this one is actually Eye Gouger. Wish it would let me move it to the correct area.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : The Big Time : Woman Of Leisure (V1)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Updated to the correct name, but I can't move it to the Small Potatoes.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : The Big Time : Spud Boy (V1)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the info! I found it in the guidebook. Its weird they don't show a reference on the Big Time page. Updated to the correct name, but I can't move it to the correct area (Small Potatoes).
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Freshman Mountain : South American Crack (5.8+)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Jan 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its easy to set up a TR (a #4, #3, and #2 C4 work nicely) on this climb by scrambling up the boulders around the right hand side from the crack. Marvel at the 13b arete climb as you pass by it. That thing is beast!
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Location: OH : John Bryan State Park : Blue (5.7)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Dec 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just bring long webbing and several locking biners and you can easily use both eyebolts to have a solid, redundant anchor on any of the routes in JB. Much safer than just using one of the bolts.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Easier Than It Looks (5.5)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Nov 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were able to rap from the P1 anchors to the start boulder with just one 60m rope, barely.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Harder Than it Looks (5.6)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Sep 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben, I don't know what route you were on (perhaps Mark of the Beast?), but there are no bolts on P2 of this route. Its just runout to the next set of anchors.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Meadows : Taco Time (5.6)
By: Zach Wahrer When: Jul 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I agree this is a serious route with potential for decking on the ledges and a very high first bolt, I would not agree with Steve that it is 5.9. Maybe you got off route or it was the heat. I climbed it during the winter, so no heat problems for me!
The worst part about this climb is trying to find it if you've never been to the area. We got lost a few times on the way out and almost got stuck out over night. Also, as I recall, one (or more) of the anchor bolts seemed kind of shady...
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