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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Hand/Fist Crack (5.0) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yikes! if you zoom in and look left of the chains, there are lots of bullet holes over there, I count almost 70 of them. Looks like this area is the one that should have a climb named "Bullet the Blue Sky" instead of Penitente.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Christine's Dream (5.12)
By: YDPL8S When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was a period there where it seems like every time I went up to Taylor, Phil was up there pumping on this. He was a young man with a serious look to him in those days. When he finally sent this, he was less intense and broke into that patented Philo grin more easily. It definitely put him into the top echelon of Taylor dirtbags at that time :-)
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Dunn's Dihedral (5.8)
By: YDPL8S When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This and Left Hand were my first 5.8 leads. I always felt that first pitch was kind of a highball boulder problem. Seems like I could never find any pro that I liked and I did it different every time. 2nd pitch dihedral is great for a 1st time leader, eats stoppers and hexes (showing my age).
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that's a great pic too, the curve though is an artifact of the lens. If the earth curved that much over that short a distance, the earth's diameter would be smaller than that of the moon.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Tiger Wall : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great afternoon Fall and Winter hangout. Afternoon sun gives a great "oven" effect at the base. We used to sit at the bottom, quaf PBRs and partake in the mean green. Sometimes we even got around to setting up a toprope...great memories!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Talisman (WI6 M6) : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty short, about to burn his lips, looks more like a roach to me.
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Location: CO : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No Allen, the guy with the beard is actually Charlie Pitts. People often called Charlie and Jimmy "twins". Charlie was actually one of the early Taylor Canyon pioneers with Bob Dickerson (Bob speaks of him in Leo Malloy's "Gunnison Rock"). He is a very cerebral, mellow fellow.
I wouldn't be surprised about Jimmy climbing again, hard to keep that guy down. I remember a story about when the Gunnison boys went to Yosemite, they were doing I think the NW route on Half Dome. With all that talen... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Spring Creek : Spring Creek Tower : Mountaineer's Route (5.8)
By: YDPL8S When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this route in the dead of winter, temps below zero. See description under photo of the tower in the general Spring Creek section. I lead the last 2 pitches after dark, covered with verglass.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Bouldering : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks like Yvonne in the red jacket, any idea who the other culprits in the picture are?
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Location: AK : Denali NP : Mt Hunter : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks cozy!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom and Charlie both - quiet, unassuming, and unbelievably fearless and tough.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's Crawford Needle, search for thread on this subject.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now Allen, ignorance is no excuse :-)
This is a beautiful pic, I just put it up as my desktop.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Coffin Crack Crag : Coffin Crack (5.11-)
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I know where you're talking about, can it also be reached by the trail next to the river? Pictures would definitely help.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks a lot Hoag, that clears up a lot and makes me feel better. I've done the "5.9" dihedral (shown as orange line in above photo) all 3 times I've done that thing. The first time I did it was on the 4th of July on the Bicentenial in 1976 with Jim Nigro, famed Gunnison hardman. We did it in big mountaineering boots (Galibier's) and thought to ourselves that the difficulty of that supposed 5.7 pitch was due to the altitude and our big boots (there was a pin up there, so we thought we were o... more >>
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Location: CO : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a geologist, that's a great shot, almost looks like a miniature version of some peaks in the Canadian Rockies.
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Location: CO : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where the heck is that?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Big Roof : ... : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you are right Phil. In fact I think that flake that Chuck is standing on is the one that my then climbing partner, Jim Brown, got his foot caught behind on a fall from Zig Zag or Cake Walk above. He fell about 40 ft to that spot and then the top of his body went over backwards while his foot stayed in...nasty compound fracture. It took the rescue team way too long to get him off. They decided to rap off the front instead of walking around back with the litter. Even accidentally flipp... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Super Slab Direct Start (5.11c)
By: YDPL8S When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool Larry, I think this picture was taken around that same time, might have been '74, I'll have to check the date on my slide. Chuck Tolton and I think Mark Jansen were there that day, along with Gary. I'm not sure who the belayer is.
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Location: TuFF GonG : photos : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the San Juans to me.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Toprope, I copied your picture off of your summitpost site. If you don't mind, I am posting it here but will remove it if you wish.
I have drawn on a line in orange that reflects the dihedral that I have always used to climb this thing the 3 times I have done it. If this is the mythical 5.9 variation it would make more sense to me as it always seemed more difficult than the 5.7 crux pitch up above. Maybe George Bell could chime in on this as he seems to be quite the expert on a lot of these... more >>
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Location: JaredVagy : Pics : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good Start!, we want more.
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Location: CO : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is now my desktop.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Super Slabs : Shape Shifter (5.10a)
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in the day, this wall was one of our favorite hangouts after class. Even in cold weather it was relatively warm. We used to call Shape Shifter "Scottie's Route", after Scotty Gilbert. He routinely climbed and Downclimbed this and Pink Nipple, honing his slab skills in his EBs, looking totally unperturbed.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Photo
By: YDPL8S When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't worry, the tree's got him.
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