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Descending the precipice trail at Acadia NP.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Dec 15, 2013
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Point Rank: # 1,836
Total Points: 315
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 155 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 22 | Stars 24 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: XOG When: Jul 25, 2005

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Comments: Excellent route. Agree with the comment about "for people struggling with 12a, it's a little runout". Probably none of the moves on it are 12a but endurance is a huge factor. The main runout for me is above bolt 5, although as Ted says the red alien does take the edge off of clipping bolt [5]. Seems like if you blow clipping bolt 6, you could fall 25' (I fell 20' from a little below the clipping hold), but as people note it's as clean as falls get and the bolts are where they should be. A couple... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Introducing Meteor Dad (5.10d)
By: XOG When: Jul 25, 2005

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Comments: I think it's the 3rd clip that is the main one not to blow (although it wouldn't be good to miss the 2nd either). There is a committing move to get to the clipping stance for bolt 3, but the stance itself has good feet, so just making the move is the main thing. Very cool crux move (think mantle) and the easier upper section is pure fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Jul 5, 2005

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Comments: Cleaning Recommendation: Set a belay on the E. Face just over the lip and belay the 2nd up to clean, i.e. multi-pitch style. Don't try to lower off to clean, this climb is so steep that it is hard to do. We tried to do this and it turned into a bit of a fiasco. If you want to work the route you can lower off a piece in the exit dihedral, pull the rope, and re-lead, and then for the final burn have the leader go up to belay the second / cleaner from the E. Face belay mentioned above. Also, the u... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Center Route (5.11a/b)
By: XOG When: Feb 23, 2005

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Comments: Took a 15 footer on this back in the mid 90's. Breathing a sigh of relief at my clean fall, I looked up and saw spaghetti rope above me. Moving at my second fastest speed ever (the fastest being falling into 34 degree water while windsurfing), I clipped a nearby pin relic at the speed of light. The rope was my (new) partner's - she told me she'd stored it in a car in Alaska for 1 year and a half. Nice.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Drugs (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Feb 15, 2005

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Comments: Rob:

I didn't replace the bolts - just provided a belay for part of the day. The ASCA kindly donated the hardware; I suggest you contact one of to get the information you are looking for.

aceeldo.org/~aceeldoo/fhrc/

safeclimbing.org/

- Greg


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Street Hassle (5.12c)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best po... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Knot Carrot (5.11a)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best po... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best po... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: As of Feb. 13th Touch Monkey has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Knot Carrot (5.11a)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: As of Feb. 13th, Knot Carrot has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Drugs (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Feb 14, 2005

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Comments: As of Feb. 13th Drugs has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: XOG When: Feb 7, 2005

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Comments: Tom:

Ya know, I heard something about that :) Didn't Kor also climb it facing out into the canyon so he could extend the use of his shoes by wearing out the heel rubber? In addition, that made sure that the right (I mean left of course) side of his body would get the tan, and also slowed him down from his notoriously fast pace just enough for the tan to take place at all? I think it's in one of the lost appendices to Climb Colorado...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Take the Termites Bowling (5.11c)
By: XOG When: Jan 25, 2005

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Comments: Although this route isn't great to look at, it's interesting and surprisingly good. Personally I feel that the crux comes low moving past the 2nd bolt, although the upper move is also challenging.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: XOG When: Jan 25, 2005

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Comments: I'd just like to point out, that at 7 a.m. on a mid-summer's day, the outline of the shadow of the Wind Ridge on the Redgarden wall nearly exactly outlines the line the Bulge takes. How weird is that?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : The Compound (V7)
By: XOG When: Oct 26, 2004

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Comments: Be careful of some loose holds and/or crisp flakes that could break. I've found that wherever these exist, there are alternative ways to do the move, but some things that look solid are actually not that solid. The last section of this is brilliant, including the high lip traversing moves after grovelling up the mossy dirty gutter for 10' following the crux. Apart from the 10' grovel, this thing is stellar!

A good combo is: Freeway (5.0) to top of Compound -_ leave shoes, go back down to the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Golden Eagle (5.11d)
By: XOG When: Oct 19, 2004

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Comments: There is a dorm-fridge size semi-detached block just below the anchors, and in fact the most natural hold to use to clip the anchors is the jug formed by the top of this block. If you are climbing this route, especially after rain, please exercise caution. The reason I believe the block to be suspect is that I was up there on a wet day (and in fact broke a mango-size hold off lower on the route both to my and my belayer's surprise), and noticed that water seeps behind the entire block and come... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Two Move Rock : South East Ridge/Two Move R... (5.2)
By: XOG When: Apr 27, 2004

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Comments: This is rated F4 in Roach's guidebook but I think it's more like F5. Also, Warren, please correct me if I am wrong, but I disagree with your description on two points! 1) You do not wind up at Sentinel pass after climbing this route, but above it; 2) The crux of this climb is not at the top, but is close to the bottom, just above a 2' vertical step. I add that for me, this crux is actually more like F5 than F4, i.e. the rating for this should be 5.4 instead of 5.2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: XOG When: Apr 9, 2004

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Comments: There was at least one other fatal accident on this climb - I don't think it's the same one mentioned above, but I could be wrong. I climbed it in the early 90s and when I got back someone told me that they'd read in the paper that just 1-2 days before someone had fallen from the first pitch (where it traverses right after diagonalling up left). I was a beginning leader when I did it and I probably woudn't have done the climb if I'd known I was following on the heels of an accident. I also remem... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: XOG When: Apr 9, 2004

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Comments: I'm slightly embarrassed to tell this story, but I'm going to anyway...A long long time ago in a galaxy far far away, I and two others, we'll call them Jack and his friend Jill (the names have been changed to protect the innocent..) had the brilliant idea to climb this on the night of july 4th, camp out on top, and watch the fireworks display. I think we had some idea that we'd get up to the top mid-afternoon, top-rope the 5.11+ overhang, kick back and have a few beers, watch the fireworks, h... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger : East Face/Challenger (5.4 R)
By: XOG When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: I think it's one of the cooler flatirons, especially when combined with various ways to climb to the summit ridge of g. mtn. from the mesa trail (regency slab to royal arch to the 1st and 2nd pieces of the 4th to G. Mtn pinnacle to Challenger), or from the royal arch trail (yodeling moves to rhs variation to 1st piece of the 4th, then as above). Once at the summit ridge, it's nice to head north and connect to the h.l. greenman trail as it descends from the summit. I think this skirts an access c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : East Face/Green Mt Pinnacle (5.6)
By: XOG When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: I noticed a nice looking hand crack about 10' past the regular start to this route when I went up to do it. I wasn't inspired by the regular start, especially unroped, and decided to try the crack. It went at about 5.2 (or F4) - I'd recommend it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger
By: XOG When: Feb 29, 2004

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Comments: Here is a really fun link-up, which ends with Challenger, so I'm listing it here.It's possible (via several different ways) to go from just above the Mesa trail to just below the summit ridge of Green Mtn, almost entirely on solid Flatironrock. After some experimentation, I've decided that for me the following is themost aesthetic way to do it. Thought I'd post it here in case anyone else is intothis sort of thing.

Start with Regency Slab (both pieces). After the 10' downclimb continue straight... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Voodoo (5.8)
By: XOG When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: If you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo. Wrote that next to the route description in my guide in '93 or 4 or so, sounds like it still applies!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Cardinal Richelieu (5.8+ X)
By: XOG When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: My partner and I decided that "Cardinal Douchebag" might be a more appropriate name for this route when we did it sometime in the mid to early 90's. It's right up there with "Voodoo" (if you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo...") for starred routes that no one should go near...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Star Trek (5.10a X)
By: XOG When: Jul 7, 2003

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Comments: Bob,The point I was trying to make was that I was trying to follow the only definition I've seen for s or vs as truthfully as I could. If you think the defn should include something like not to take the runouts into account if the runout sections are a lot easier than the crux, fine, but I'd like to see it defined better. Also, like David was saying, the 5.6 seems kind of hard on this pitch (I thought this too), and like I said in my description, the 5.10- seems kind of easy, more like 5.9, so I... more >>


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