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Descending the precipice trail at Acadia NP.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Dec 15, 2013
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 155 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 22 | Stars 24 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Two Move Rock : South East Ridge/Two Move R... (5.2)
By: XOG When: Apr 27, 2004

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Comments: This is rated F4 in Roach's guidebook but I think it's more like F5. Also, Warren, please correct me if I am wrong, but I disagree with your description on two points! 1) You do not wind up at Sentinel pass after climbing this route, but above it; 2) The crux of this climb is not at the top, but is close to the bottom, just above a 2' vertical step. I add that for me, this crux is actually more like F5 than F4, i.e. the rating for this should be 5.4 instead of 5.2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: XOG When: Apr 9, 2004

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Comments: There was at least one other fatal accident on this climb - I don't think it's the same one mentioned above, but I could be wrong. I climbed it in the early 90s and when I got back someone told me that they'd read in the paper that just 1-2 days before someone had fallen from the first pitch (where it traverses right after diagonalling up left). I was a beginning leader when I did it and I probably woudn't have done the climb if I'd known I was following on the heels of an accident. I also remem... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: XOG When: Apr 9, 2004

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Comments: I'm slightly embarrassed to tell this story, but I'm going to anyway...A long long time ago in a galaxy far far away, I and two others, we'll call them Jack and his friend Jill (the names have been changed to protect the innocent..) had the brilliant idea to climb this on the night of july 4th, camp out on top, and watch the fireworks display. I think we had some idea that we'd get up to the top mid-afternoon, top-rope the 5.11+ overhang, kick back and have a few beers, watch the fireworks, h... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger : East Face/Challenger (5.4 R)
By: XOG When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: I think it's one of the cooler flatirons, especially when combined with various ways to climb to the summit ridge of g. mtn. from the mesa trail (regency slab to royal arch to the 1st and 2nd pieces of the 4th to G. Mtn pinnacle to Challenger), or from the royal arch trail (yodeling moves to rhs variation to 1st piece of the 4th, then as above). Once at the summit ridge, it's nice to head north and connect to the h.l. greenman trail as it descends from the summit. I think this skirts an access c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : East Face/Green Mt Pinnacle (5.6)
By: XOG When: Mar 15, 2004

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Comments: I noticed a nice looking hand crack about 10' past the regular start to this route when I went up to do it. I wasn't inspired by the regular start, especially unroped, and decided to try the crack. It went at about 5.2 (or F4) - I'd recommend it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger
By: XOG When: Feb 29, 2004

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Comments: Here is a really fun link-up, which ends with Challenger, so I'm listing it here.It's possible (via several different ways) to go from just above the Mesa trail to just below the summit ridge of Green Mtn, almost entirely on solid Flatironrock. After some experimentation, I've decided that for me the following is themost aesthetic way to do it. Thought I'd post it here in case anyone else is intothis sort of thing.

Start with Regency Slab (both pieces). After the 10' downclimb continue straight... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Voodoo (5.8)
By: XOG When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: If you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo. Wrote that next to the route description in my guide in '93 or 4 or so, sounds like it still applies!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Cardinal Richelieu (5.8+ X)
By: XOG When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: My partner and I decided that "Cardinal Douchebag" might be a more appropriate name for this route when we did it sometime in the mid to early 90's. It's right up there with "Voodoo" (if you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo...") for starred routes that no one should go near...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Star Trek (5.10a X)
By: XOG When: Jul 7, 2003

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Comments: Bob,The point I was trying to make was that I was trying to follow the only definition I've seen for s or vs as truthfully as I could. If you think the defn should include something like not to take the runouts into account if the runout sections are a lot easier than the crux, fine, but I'd like to see it defined better. Also, like David was saying, the 5.6 seems kind of hard on this pitch (I thought this too), and like I said in my description, the 5.10- seems kind of easy, more like 5.9, so I... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: XOG When: Jun 22, 2003

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Comments: I was almost one of the accidents p1 is noted for in 1991 sometime. I'd never led anything harder than 5.6, and not very many of those, although I'd followed as hard as 11c, and a partner sandbagged me into leading it at the end of a winter day, 40 degrees with snow at the base (thanks, Steve). I had no idea what the climb was, but had the beginning leader's willingness to try. On the way up a local climbing ethics authority was heading down the trail with several pitons dangling from his harnes... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Star Trek (5.10a X)
By: XOG When: Jun 20, 2003

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Comments: Dear Anonymous Coward (since you think this climb is not even 'S' perhaps you might also be brave enough to not hide behind anonymity) - I was going by the (slightly lame, but it's the only one I've seen ) definition that 'S' means the leader would likely be hurt significantly in a fall and 'VS' means the leader would likely be killed in a fall. You could fall 80' straight onto the belay, which I'd call VS. I've never heard anything about a requirement that the difficulty on the runout needs t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: XOG When: May 26, 2003

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Comments: Just climbed this for the 2nd time today, here's a way to do it so that with a 60 meter rope you at least get decent belays. On the 1st pitch run almost to the end of the 60 m , drop into the chimney slot and belay on a really nice level spot down in the chimney. This is also nice and cool on a hot day. There's a nice easy vertical diagonal traverse out of the chimney on huecos, or else just step out on the face just below the belay. The key is making the 2nd pitch short. Just climb 50 or 60 fee... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Crack Tack (5.10a R)
By: XOG When: May 24, 2003

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Comments: This was my first (or maybe 2nd) 5.9 lead. I remember placing a brass nut in a small crack on the left side of a flake right at the top which, if it pulled, would have meant a ground fall. In fact, it did pull, but I did not hit the ground! As I moved left, the nut popped out, leaving me with essentially no pro. Fortunately the climbing must have been only 5.2 ish or so, but I still think it deserves the s rating. Not sure about vs - although it was vs the way I did it, I was also a very inexpe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Whiplash (5.10b)
By: XOG When: May 3, 2003

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Comments: Climbed this today. My partner Shigemichi was leading, and just before the crux after setting pro he grabbed the last big jug with both hands, I guess to rest. Anyway, it came off, I'd guess about a 25 pound football and he fell backwards and upside down, coming to a halt with his head 2-3 feet from a fin of rock. I yelled rock loudly. Fortunately the only people in the area were a party on Xanadu, which was enough to the right that they heard the rock but that was it. Even though we were there ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : East Face South Side/Hillbi... (5.1 R)
By: XOG When: May 1, 2003

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Comments: This was the very first Flatiron climb I came to in Boulder for a solo scramble back around 1990 or so. I picked it because Roach's guidebook said it was a perfect beginner's route, lower angle than usual with good pro (for some reason although I was planning to scramble that made me feel better).

I backed off it then, thinking I had a long ways to go as a climber, came back a few times over the years and kept backing off because I didn't feel comfortable with it, and only recently finally went... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Circadian Rhythms (5.9+)
By: XOG When: May 1, 2003

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Comments: There is about 40' of easy (5.0) traversing without tons of pro to get over to the Tongo anchors once done with the crux, so make sure the 2nd is down with that. Also as a leader you can't see the anchors until you are right at them, or from the ground, so check the topo showing where the anchors are carefully. I thought it was a fun route, solid rock and unusual climbing!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : The Mushroom (5.8)
By: XOG When: Apr 10, 2003

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Comments: Check out the large block which looks to be precariously balanced more or less directly above and slightly to the left of this route and then think twice about doing it on a windy day!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: XOG When: Apr 10, 2003

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Comments: There's an easier variation to the second pitch. Instead of going right and pulling the 5.8+ roof with tricky protection, you can go left from the hanging belay and wander up mostly 5.7 terrain with reasonable protection (a bit run-out but regularly spaced pro) and solid lichen-covered rock. I've done it both ways and actually find the left variation just as enjoyable because of the route-finding and the consistent difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Evangeline (5.11b A1)
By: XOG When: Mar 3, 2003

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Comments: I followed the upper 10 b/c in the early 90s and thought it was considerably harder than the 11 b/c first pitch. I remember hard moves off the belay, and an upper crux past fixed bashies in a smooth dihedral / groove sort of thing, which more or less sounds like what some other people are saying.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: XOG When: Mar 3, 2003

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Comments: Another stupid near-death story - Once upon a time I climbed this with 2 others. Pretty high up on the route (I don't remember exactly where, but it's the last belay from decent sized ledges), I was in 3rd position and it being a hot summer day and a long wait, I fell asleep on the ledge. In the meantime, the 2nd person (that was not terribly experienced) took off on follow. I woke up, stretched, and realized that I was no longer clipped into the belay and was attached to the rock only by the ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : South Sneak (5.2)
By: XOG When: Feb 16, 2003

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Comments: I decided not to do onsight flatiron solos after doing this climb - I got up in the smooth polished section and thought I would have given this climb F5 instead of F3 because of the polished nature of the rock. Usually Roach's ratings are right on, but not always!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: XOG When: Feb 7, 2003

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Comments: AC - It's a pretty old TR (1994 or something like that) and I should have put a date on it. I don't think I started seeing Naked Edge raptor closures until sometime around 1999 - 2000?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: XOG When: Feb 6, 2003

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Comments: Guess I have to add my Naked Edge TR since Bill put his in:)

Here's the report (from around 1994). Sorry for the length of the comment, but I don't have anywhere else to put it, and it might as well be somewhere.

Following is a trip report - The Naked Edge, July 4, circa 1994. Skip if bored!!!

Fellow netter Jon and I had gone up to the Crags in Estes Park on Saturday, July 2nd and had a great time, so we decided to try climbing together a second time on the 4th. Jon's recently arrived in Colo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Street Hassle (5.12c)
By: XOG When: Feb 1, 2003

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Comments: Actually managed to top-rope this today - leading's next (with a crash pad for the start I think it's comparable to a lot of local boulders as far as the 1st bolt goes). Different beta for the crux sequence - get on the obvious first set of decent crimps, stem out right (and a little high at this point) to a decent notch with the right foot, work the left foot up on smears until you can reach a tiny bad crimp for the right hand, then (this is the crux) move the left foot up to a smear pocket an... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: XOG When: Apr 18, 2002

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Comments: I'd agree about the protection, especially some of the belays are very poor. We ran out a 50 meter rope on the 3rd and 4th pitches and were nowhere near a decent belay both times. After the 4th pitch, just before crossing up and right to the summit ridge, the belay was just a couple of marginal tri-cams stuffed into the same pocket. Add to this the fact that it was sometimes necessary to climb 40' from these belays before placing the first piece of protection off the belay, and really this route... more >>


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