Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Southpark
By: WSnyder When: Jul 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought about parking higher next time but the upper parking would be farther away from the ridge high point and I don't know if any other pullouts exist on that narrow road going to the top. I was too tired and hungry to check it out when we got back to the car. EFR would know and maybe he will comment. I parked at the regular area because we were going in on the old trail. If there is alternative parking higher before the parking lot at the top that would certainly be better. Temps were goo... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Southpark
By: WSnyder When: Jul 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks. Added the negative to longitude so the aerial photo link works properly now.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Southpark
By: WSnyder When: Jul 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone recently has drilled but not fully bolted a new route on the arete just right of the "Focus on the Candy" dihedral.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon
By: WSnyder When: Jun 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took a trip out to Southpark and I listed Southpark as a new area with some current (as of 06/30/07) directions and maps. Basically the old trail sucks ass! Follow the new directions and maps posted under Southpark and you should get there with minimal effort.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Anduriel Tower : Birthday Girl (5.10)
By: WSnyder When: Mar 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: So the rumor is true, you have slipped deeply into the dark side. A very dark force must be influencing you these days. I have heard a force from the past has ventured out, maybe he can help you to see the light again.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Anduriel Tower : Birthday Girl (5.10)
By: WSnyder When: Feb 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The thrill is gone!
|
Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Genesis (5.10d)
By: WSnyder When: Oct 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best climbs in the canyon regardless of the grade.
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : (06) Pogue's Arete (5.11-)
By: WSnyder When: Jul 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 07/30/06 there were no birds on this route. While doing several routes around Pogue's I watched for activity of birds in and out of the cave. After seeing no activity I stood up on the ledge to look and listen for nesting activity. I neither saw or heard anything so we climbed the route and found no nesting.
|
Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon
By: WSnyder When: Jul 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The word on Last Chance as I have been told is that the locals are trying to keep the location secret until they can drill up the routes themselves. I have also heard some outsiders have been doing some drilling recently. Enough people already know how to get there so it probably will not be long before it's public knowledge again. I'm just waiting for some cooler temps to make a visit myself (not to drill just to climb).
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Big Pine Towers : Recovery Room (5.10-) : Photo
By: WSnyder When: Jul 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're looking quite stylish there Hillary. At my height and limited hip flexibility a heel hook used to serve me well at this spot.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Steep : Dr. Evil (5.12) : Photo
By: WSnyder When: Jul 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I seem to remember that the forearms were talking to me a bit at this point.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Right Tissue (5.12b)
By: WSnyder When: Jul 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I too am remembering only one poor crimp. The others must be standard Mt. Lemmon fare at the grade. History does give this route an extra star in my book too. The mad Brit doing the direct finish sans pro and Mark Hathaway's memories of belaying Lynn Hill on her onsight to name a couple. Those of you who have heard Mark's story know what I'm talking about.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Murray Wall : Afterburner (5.12a/b)
By: WSnyder When: Jun 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder than Kundalini or Forever.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Microwave Wall : Microwave (5.10b)
By: WSnyder When: Jun 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you cut right at the top after the last bolt and skip the good but harder stuff strait up it's 10b. Don't cheat yourself out of the crux at the top as it's fun and adds some spice to the finish.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Lost Hawk : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: WSnyder When: Apr 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Joe Terravechia, Tom Doherty 1987
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Anduriel Tower : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: WSnyder When: Apr 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do not know how many bolts there are but it has enough. I cannot say you won't get hurt if you fall, you shouldn't but you could. The route is fairly long and somewhat pumpy with a crux that you will readily recognize when you get to it. Good footwork is always important regardless of the grade or steepness of the route although EMk says "Good footwork gets in the way of strength training." so it is your choice to efficiently use your feet or not. Good footwork on this route is possible and co... more >>
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Paradox Rock : Quandry (5.10d)
By: WSnyder When: Apr 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you like crimps or want to make it a little harder you can skip the left traverse and climb the crimps straight up the face to the next bolt.
|
Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs
By: WSnyder When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Claim to Fame. The left anchor bolt becoming loose. It has some up and down movement when weighted/unweighted.
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : (03) Sleeping Beauty (5.11c)
By: WSnyder When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of my friends and I have a saying for climbing at The Tower "Skip the crap, go big!". Meaning, make bigger moves from good holds to the next good holds and skipping the not so good. This certainly applies to this route and is a good rule of thumb to keep in mind for the whole area.
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ... : (18) Technowitch (5.12a)
By: WSnyder When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI the FA was done by John Duran
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ... : (17) Straight On Til Mornin... (5.12c)
By: WSnyder When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe not the best 12 on The Tower but I think it is the best route of the three 12's on the left side of that face. It's a little harder than Technowitch and Tinkerbell's Nightmare but has more vertical feet of good climbing than the other two so you get more bang for your effort.
FYI the FA was done by Adam Read.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Hard Day at The Orifice (5.12b)
By: WSnyder When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a thrill and a reward after you redpoint take the big swing. After cleaning the route, climb up on TR to the second bolt or higher and take the swing out over the canyon below. Mandatory at least once. Make sure your belayer doesn't lower you too soon so you don't hit the ledge when swinging back in.
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: WSnyder When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: In a conversation with Adam Read (Tower first acensionist and geologist at NM Tech) Adam stated that The Tower is actually a clastic flow and not welded tuff. I write this just for info and not to argue anything. Maybe if Adam ever reads this he can comment further.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sun Spot Crags : Solar Flare (5.11)
By: WSnyder When: Feb 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Erik! Long time no see. I'm just teasing Jim a bit. No harm really meant. It's just funny how our past history can come around and bite us sometimes.
|
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sun Spot Crags : Solar Flare (5.11)
By: WSnyder When: Feb 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another bolted crack? "Regardless of ethics, or lack there of," is not a valid excuse. Remember "If you live by the sword, you die by the sword".
|
RSS Feed
