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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress : Diesel Driver (5.9)
By: W.S. When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: All you hear about Diesel Driver is that it's sandbagged, but it's actually a really great crack climb. Tell yer friends.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Winter Heat (5.11)
By: W.S. When: Apr 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got maybe four small nuts and two small cams in on this route. The gear wasn't horrible, just small. Beautiful climbing up good rock.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: W.S. When: Apr 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outstanding climb! Hardest part for me was the start, my favorite part was the 3rd pitch roof. We took doubles from a #1 metolius to #4 camalot with an extra #3 (3 total). Next time I would take doubles to #3 and a single #4. The guide recommends a 70m or two 50m ropes for the rappel - we did it in two raps with one 60m and had no problems, so don't bother with the extra weight. 4wd is recommended for the approach but we were okay with a 2wd truck. Go do it!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Rock Warrior (5.10b R)
By: W.S. When: Apr 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bold! The climbing is not too hard but you're WAY above the gear and the flaky sandstone is less than confidence inspiring. Gear is mostly small and usually lousy. Be on your game! Otherwise it's a very neat section of the wall and pretty cool to climb next to sportos on POD. "What are those guys doing?! Don't they know they're 40ft out?!" As an aside, although the bolts are spaced all are bomber.
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Location: MT
By: W.S. When: Sep 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Potential visitors to MT should be aware of the strict do-not-publish ethic that has prevailed here since the beginning of technical rock climbing. Internet info and to a lesser extent published guidebooks tend to be a poor representation of what's here. So make friends, buy beer, and explore!
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area : Sparerib (5.8)
By: W.S. When: Sep 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is brilliant. I had to remind myself to place pro, it's easy to forget when you're having so much fun. Probably the best 5.8 in the area.
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : The Watchtower - First Tier : Mothers Day (5.8+)
By: W.S. When: Sep 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad I did it, probably won't repeat it. This route eats up nuts, everything protects very well. Also, this is not 5.9, but classic canyon 5.8+. I recommend an immediate traverse for the third pitch and long sleeves.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: W.S. When: Jun 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this last weekend after leading Crack In The Woods. I ended up downclimbing the chimney quite a bit before moving over to Hand Jive, and I felt that committing to the other wall was the mental crux for me. I thought this was about as hard as Crack In The Woods, and both were great pitches that protect very well.
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : First Best (5.10-)
By: W.S. When: May 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no longer a fixed pin, but if you hurry you might find a stuck TCU about a third of the way up. Not ours, and we didn't succeed in getting it out. Great climb. Like the description says, there is a possible #3 placement towards the top, but it's not necessary because that's the easiest part and there are other options for pro.
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Standard Route (5.9)
By: W.S. When: May 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just got back from a year sport climbing in France, and this was the perfect route to get back into MT climbing. We took the standard chimney finish. I'd recommend setting the first belay on some broken ledges about 15 feet above the large ledge with rap bolts, as this makes rope drag on the second pitch much less noticeable. This route protects very easily, unlike some others in the canyon, and seems to eat up nuts. Highly recommended.
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Location: MT : Photo
By: W.S. When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indian Creek? Maybe "White Hawk" (10c)?
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area : Zig Zag (5.8)
By: W.S. When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a walk off, no rappel necessary. First pitch and first half of the second pitch are great, but the top (scrappy, loose, low-angle chimney) keeps this route from being fantastic.
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