Point Rank: # 5,695
Total Points: 6
Last Year: 0
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Where has worfeus been climbing?
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Contributions
| All (9) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (6) | Posts (3) | Stars | Ratings | |
Contributed Comments | | |
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Lower Wall : Red Light District (5.10a)
By: worfeus When: Mar 4, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: I led this route in 1991, and it was rated 5 9+ then.
I fell on the first roof and hit my head pretty bad on the overhang, so be carefull. That second clip is a bitch.
Using a 3 foot runner is a good idea, but if you fall on that second clip, ouch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Lower Wall : Chorus Line (5.9)
By: worfeus When: Mar 4, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: Vincent is right about the initial roof. It is the hardest move on the route. Clip high first, and then pull hard.
I solo'd this route once in the early 90's, no problem. All the moves are smooth, and footholds are bomber.
The repel off has an overhang, and sharp edge so don't swing, sit in your harness for the repel, cause you'll be well off the wall for most of the trip down.
Great exposure. Really fun climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education
By: worfeus When: Mar 4, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: When we climbed this route, it was called the Wall of Higher Education.
There were two good bolted routes at the top, with a nice catwalk ledge for belay.
Due to the scramble the exposure is good.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon
By: worfeus When: Mar 4, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: I explored and climbed most of the crags from 5-3 to 5-11 + in Salt Lake for a full 10 years. During that time I had the best climbing days of my life in Big Cottonwood Canyon, meeting and climbing with some of the great old timers like Jerry Stovall, Stan Cantrell, Merrill Bitter, Gordon Douglass, Bobbie Bensmen and others.
They were great times, and the routes are some of the best juggy nobby quartzite sport and trad routes you can imagine, all in a beautiful accessible location.
You can't... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Epic Wall (5.5)
By: worfeus When: Mar 3, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: I also soled this route a lot back then, but not the right hand variation. I stayed close to the crack on the second pitch, although I ALWAYS pulled the little roof at the top of the first pitch, right before the ledge.
It was always a fun route, and beautiful at the top. Great walk off to a fun 30 foot boldering spot.
It also makes a great training route for trad climbers. It was the first trad route I ever did.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Epic Wall (5.5)
By: worfeus When: Mar 3, 2006 | view comment >> | Comments: I placed a piton in this route back in the early 90s.
It was a TALON as I recall, and it is on the second pitch, about 15 or 20 feet to the RIGHT of the ascending crack.
Its in a small crack that does not run the entire length of this pitch variation, but it allows you to do this right hand pitch and get a little more exposure on the second pitch without having to run it out.
It was bomber then. I remember doing it with a ball peen hammer ducktaped to a runner, hanging off my harness, and st... more >>
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