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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Pinched Rib (5.10b)
By: Woody Stark When: Dec 30, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now, now... Randy.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Pinched Rib (5.10b)
By: Woody Stark When: Dec 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route again today to confirm a suspicion about the rating. Last year I used a different combination of foot moves that I'd not tried before and was surprised at the result. The original rating--way back--was 5.7 then raised to 5.8 and is now 10a/b. Well, it was 5.7/5.8 today. Here's the secret: stay on the rib all the way. You start with the left foot on a reasonable sloper, then proceed on good holds right, left, right and grab the horn. While doing this, lean back a bit using the ri... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: Woody Stark When: Nov 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sandbagged, wretched, lousy, stinking, crummy, foul, nasty and perverse. Only people who enjoy surgery would like this thing. I ignored it for years. I wish I'd continued so. On the other hand, you might as well climb it so you can check it off.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: Woody Stark When: Nov 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route continues to evolve. It's greasier that the last time I climbed it about three years ago. I'll call it a 10C now.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : Siberia : George's Route (aka Binder) (5.8)
By: Woody Stark When: Oct 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good warm-up for Dos Chichis and Yasmin Bleeth. It's well protected and has rap anchors to take you to the bottom with one rope. It's definitely the easiest of the three.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : Siberia : Yasmine Bleeth (5.9)
By: Woody Stark When: Oct 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: An enjoyable route. If you climb this and Dos Chichis, one after the other, I believe you'll notice a significant difference in difficulty: the second pitch of DCC is "at least" a point more difficult on the second pitch yet quite a few people rate both routes the same. Oh, well.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Outer Mongolia : Siberia : Dos Chi Chis (5.10a)
By: Woody Stark When: Oct 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot of fun and well protected.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground : Castle Rock-North Side : That Old Soft Shoe (5.10d)
By: Woody Stark When: Oct 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Locker and I climbed this route today, first for me and third for him. Locker feels it's becoming a bit more difficult--getting greasy. For sure it's 10d and getting very close to 11a.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground : Castle Rock-North Side : Music Box (5.8)
By: Woody Stark When: Oct 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guide has this route at eight. Locker and I have it at 10a. It's an excellent route: good protection all the way and quite sustained.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks : Conan's Corridor : Spiderman (5.10a)
By: Woody Stark When: Sep 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was second on this today. Definitely 10B. Wear long pants or tape your left leg.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks : Conan's Corridor : Gem (5.8)
By: Woody Stark When: Sep 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, good technique or not, if I ever climb this route again, I'm going to tape my left arm to the elbow.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Zigzag (5.8)
By: Woody Stark When: Sep 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went back today and suckered Locker into leading in hopes of clearing up the rating on what I felt was a ludicrous sandbag. I was probably right; we agreed on 10b for the upper crack. The pro is excellent.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Indian Palisades Corridor : The Shank (5.10a)
By: Woody Stark When: Jul 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let's see now; do I want to climb The Shank again or join an S and M club, hmmmmm?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : White Cliffs of Dover : Ace of Spades (5.9)
By: Woody Stark When: May 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fine route, well protected, but no more than 5.8.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : White Cliffs of Dover : Popular Mechanics (5.9)
By: Woody Stark When: May 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much fun with good, easy, pro placement.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : White Cliffs of Dover : Nolina Crack (5.10a)
By: Woody Stark When: May 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fine route, but the upper nolina is a vampire that slices for its dinner.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : White Cliffs of Dover : Jack of Hearts (5.9)
By: Woody Stark When: May 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I followed and lay-backed the lower crack. I'd never do that on lead ,though. We (Locker) broke it into two pitches. I led the second, and the choice is between the jam on the left and the face on the right. I took the face(5.9), error, error--scary, dangerous runout. The lower crack we both thought was harder than nine.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock-West ... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: Woody Stark When: May 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used a #4 Ballnut to protect the crux on the upper crack today, and it worked fine. I tested it with my full body weight. It did twist out when the second came up due to the angle of the lower rope pull. Sling it to avoid this. Be sure to place pro under the capstone at the top of the first crack just in case. The upper crack is most definitely 10a.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Head Over Heals (5.10a)
By: Woody Stark When: May 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had to follow this one yesterday after failing numerous times trying to pull across the traverse. After watching Steve the T do the lead, I saw the error of my ways: your right foot better be as far out and behind you as possible to press you against the wall as you reach for the hold. How a short climber pulls this off, I'd much like to watch.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : The Old Man and the Poodle (5.8)
By: Woody Stark When: Apr 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Enjoyable climb with good pro. I don't feel a PG is necessary.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : For Whom The Poodle Tolls (5.9)
By: Woody Stark When: Apr 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this today, and both of us felt it was a solid 10a. Be that as it may, it was a very good route with excellent pro. Also, a set of slings around a good sized knob have been placed for a secure rap.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Hound Rock : Crescent Wrench (5.10d)
By: Woody Stark When: Apr 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Point taken. This, I believe, is the first time I've entered a route I didn't lead. The next time out there, I'll give it a try and see what I see.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Hound Rock : Crescent Wrench (5.10d)
By: Woody Stark When: Apr 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A sustained route rated in the guide at 10d/11a. I would say closer to 10b/c.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Hound Rock : Tossed Green (5.10a)
By: Woody Stark When: Apr 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very good and demanding route; it keeps one's attention all the way. I'm going to be contrary and rate it 10B.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Hound Rock : An Eye To The West (5.9)
By: Woody Stark When: Apr 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun, interesting start and fairly sustained. It takes pro nicely.
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