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Member Since: Nov 13, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 29, 2007
Contact William McGehee


Point Rank: # 1,457
Total Points: 407
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has William McGehee been climbing?










Contributions


All 197 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 50 | Page Improvments | Comments 92 | Posts 1 | Stars 32 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Baker's Way (5.3)
By: William McGehee When: Aug 24, 2005

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Comments: George and I climbed this route tonight. It is a wonderful moonlight solo adventure. In the light of a waning moon even, the route is do-able, though if you have not climbed this way maybe twice before, it might not be a great idea as a solo, even as roped. If you have climbed it a few times before, DO IT! It's more fun for me than the Third at night.

I got a laugh when I saw the anchor on the summit ridge junction. Someone had backed it up with a sling! What a hoot. Even added a beefier screw... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: William McGehee When: Aug 22, 2005

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Comments: You CAN make the Chasm View rappels with a [single] rope as long as it's a 70m. Make CERTAIN you knot your lines and are centered, then rap to the ends, working your way around a short arete/dihedral combination toward the east right at the ends. Gain a nice ledge and look around (up a tad) for an anchor built out of tied off pitons. I would have replaced the webbing, but I was a complete moron and forgot my belay knife.

Rappel 2: Thread the anchor and work back to the SW just as though... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: William McGehee When: Aug 22, 2005

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Comments: Linking D7 up with the Forrest Finish is really an excellent combination. My only concern is that I became a tad confused with the upper reaches of the Forrest Finish and the actual line. It appears there are many possibilities, some easier than others, but all challenging nonetheless.

Regarding the offwidth crack, I found the climbing MUCH easier if approached in a fashion similar to the squeeze on the Casual Route. Should you be carrying a pack, sling it to your butt. Put the BIG gear on your... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Scarecrow (5.7 R)
By: William McGehee When: Aug 9, 2005

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Comments: I felt this route may have been a tad easier than 5.7, but not by much. I would like to reiterate Tony's suggestion that the rock on the upper portion (starting at the tree and beyond) is not terribly solid. I cleaned what I could remove with my hands and removed stones that were next to the tree, but be careful nonetheless. Just be certain of what you grab. If you're in the area, you likely got there by climbing Rainbow Bridge, so there shouldn't be any problems with difficulty on lead.Hand siz... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : One In The Chamber (5.8)
By: William McGehee When: Aug 6, 2005

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Comments: Neither Tony nor I were aware of any first ascentionists, so we merely claimed the route unpublished. If anyone has FA information, please inform us so we might give credit when it is due. This is a good set of routes to climb if you're in the area. Rainbow Bridge is a good destination climb, so this is a great way to top out on the Nebel Horn instead of working the third class climb to the top. ~Wm


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron
By: William McGehee When: Jul 20, 2005

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Comments: Avoid this guy in the late afternoon. Right now there are millions of gnats congregating on high points along the ridge. I climbed the Direct Route this afternoon and felt like I was in Alaska in the spring when I got to the ridge. At least they weren't mosquitos. Be prepared to swat! Rock cools off a LOT after a short period of cloud cover, so don't be afraid to head up there if you see cumulus clouds in the sky. It might be cool enough to climb on.~Wm


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: William McGehee When: Jul 18, 2005

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Comments: Having done this route yesterday and now looking at the pictures, I am wondering "Where the hell was I," or "Where the hell were all of you?" I climbed up the ridgeline from the adit to the summit of Torrey's. Never HAD to climb a knife-edge or any significant sections of rock. There is always a trail that goes around most of the rock. I scrambled up a chimney or ledge-system or two on the route, but nothing was terribly difficult (though the exposure may have been exciting). In short, the way I... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: William McGehee When: Jul 14, 2005

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Comments: I tried to post this morning, but it never showed up. Maybe I screwed up. I'll attempt to recreate the post.

Prepare ye masses... It's open y'all! Tear it up! George Bell sent me an e-mail last night and the link to the OSMP page with closures. We met up this morning at 0600 and headed on up from the Chautauqua Visitor Center. Saw [no one] ahead nor behind us, but on the descent I noticed a few poison ivy leaves broken from their vines on the trail in the talus. From the withering, it looks lik... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron
By: William McGehee When: Jul 14, 2005

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Comments: Prepare the masses!!!

She's open y'all. Rip it up. George Bell told me last night, so we went out for an early morning mission. The descent trail through the talus had a pair of poison ivy leaves that were broked from their vines, perhaps indicating someone's travel into the area. We were at Chautauqua Visitor Center at 0600 and didn't see ANYONE, so perhaps someone made an early-season illegal ascent??? Hope not. The leaves looked like they were broken off yesterday. Maybe it was someone moni... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: William McGehee When: Jul 13, 2005

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Comments: Someone has removed the "bail anchor" midway up summit ridge. If you are hoping for that anchor, you will be sorely disappointed. I had to use it out of necessity two days ago and ended up rappelling off a large block, requiring another party to throw our rope for us. IMHO, this anchor should not be removed as it cannot be seen from any vantage point off the rock. Only climbers can really see this set of slings. Please do not remove it. I'm going back up there in a few days with 1 inch tubular t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Dandi-Line (5.7)
By: William McGehee When: Jun 26, 2005

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Comments: I think this climb is worth a visit at the very least. It's a perfect 25 meters, and fun to run up as a warm-up for Mescaline. Don't be fooled though, this 5.7 is MUCH easier than its neighbor. "New-school" 5.7 right next to a "Old-school" 5.7, so make sure you check the FA dates.~Wm


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Disinclination (5.7)
By: William McGehee When: Jun 25, 2005

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Comments: Much more fun than Midway. Clean climbing on a well-bolted slab and you can even toprope it from the rings at the base of the pillar Rossiter describes in his BC guide. Gives you a chance to safely play around on Ripcord as well (minus the rope-stretch)! Good technical moves that force-teach you to learn slab-climbing on granite. Two stars because the start is a little contrived and the route traverses a good bit from start to finish. Rope-drag over the rock at the start can be a pain.~Wm


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Midway (5.6)
By: William McGehee When: Jun 25, 2005

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Comments: I didn't feel as though this line was worthwhile really. Not a fun beginner line, the gear really isn't all that great and I was looking, the crack isn't so much a crack as it is a flared feature, and it's really rather 'gunky.' I suggest you climb Disinclination instead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Lust (5.10d)
By: William McGehee When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: I agree with Chad here. Climbing at the top is similar to the pin-ladder on Eldo's Yellow Spur. After I got back to the car, I kept saying "There's no WAY that's .10d!" By no means am I a ".10d climber" and I only hesitated once or twice on this route. I'd call it a .10b I think. If you're not a .10d climber, I wouldn't be afraid of this route. Many many bolts and the cruxes aren't that hard. At the top, follow the bolt line to the rings, don't wander right where the chalked ledges are.~Wm


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Devil (5.11d)
By: William McGehee When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: Look for a 6" tall, WAY overused 'cheater-stump' at the base of this climb. For .11d, it seems reasonable that the line runs straight through the flared crack at the top (look at Ron Olsen's third photo below), and not right then back left to the rings. Much easier to bypass the would-be crux if you do go right at the flared crack, then back left again at the rings.~Wm


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Dihedral (5.4)
By: William McGehee When: Jun 18, 2005

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Comments: Matt says that a deeply buried #2 at the top is better than a large cam (I think) in the wide spot under the top flake. I disagree. I placed a #3 cam in that vicinity to set up a TR with slings on the fixed anchor and a trad piece or two. This location for a trad-esque anchor alleviates rope drag problems, though it eliminates the crux moves as well. Realistically, they aren't worth it for me and if you're teaching a person how to climb, it probably won't be worth it for you either.
... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: William McGehee When: Jun 4, 2005

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Comments: My partner Kevin and I agree that the roof on P2 goes harder than the Rossiter-suggested 5.7, sequencing aside. If the fingerlocks were 6" closer to the lip of the roof, it MIGHT be a 5.7, but that's not why I comment here. For the P1 traverse: on a sunny day with blue skies, if you look up at the pitch from the ground before leading, a "secret" green-alien placement will reveal itself to you. JUST as you get done with the belly-crawl, over the bulge toward the ground is a nice green-alien place... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rover (5.11b R)
By: William McGehee When: May 11, 2005

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Comments: P.S. The Bird-lime situation is nearly non-existant as of yesterday (5-10-05). Of course, I may not have noticed it because I was concentrating on my feet too much, but then again, maybe you won't either... ~Wm


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rover (5.11b R)
By: William McGehee When: May 11, 2005

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Comments: George, I agree with you about the pumpiness of this section. However, there is a pretty nice kneebar after the first little overhang, a perfect time and position for it. This allows the sub-confident leader to rest (I actually got a drink of water, more for the stage than the need), before what I feel is the real "Business" part of this pitch. I absolutely love this pitch and would recommend it to anyone looking for practice routes to break into 5.10 in Eldo. It would likely be a 5.10 anywhere ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: William McGehee When: Nov 8, 2004

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Comments: So this is what a 5.12 feels like, huh??? Ouch. I like the above comment of paste your feet high... There really isn't a defined feature upon which one must place such a paste.

Shameless Beta. Beware!!! Left foot goes on the tiny vertical crimp (you can see it plainly from the roof-rest pedestal), then get your lieback on, reach for the crappy positive crimp, then smear the right foot wherever you can. Power up to the small "ear-looking" feature with your hands (I had to be a little dynamic wi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: William McGehee When: Oct 13, 2004

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Comments: Russ, you know what???

YOU suck! No, actually, I respect all that you and Darren said. I think that you both see things pretty similarly after reviewing profiles last night. Incidentally, you both sound like really cool people to climb with. Not only does it embarass me that I got my nuts in a crack, but it also pisses me off that I lost the money invested in said nuts. Believe me when I said that I tried hard to remove the cram. I placed a green alien immediately below it, slung it, put my fo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Duh Dihedral (5.6)
By: William McGehee When: Oct 10, 2004

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Comments: I disagree with James here. Lead the whole thing with nothing larger than a #1 camalot and you'll be fine. Why drag up the weight? If you HAVE a #4 and want to place it for novelty, you are certainly able to, but the thin stuff on the sides of the crack is much more reasonable for gear.

Health related beta: watch out for the wasps about 15' up on the right side. They have a nest in the heavily chalked flake that should be the start of Zap Snack. Live and let live, they'll leave you ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: William McGehee When: Oct 9, 2004

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Comments: Sorry... That's a "college case" (12 beers), not a full case of micros... It ain't worth THAT much to me! ~Wm


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: William McGehee When: Oct 9, 2004

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Comments: I was a little gripped on this (I have a whole LIST of excuses, but in the interest of posterity...), so I sewed it up REALLY well. One nut which was backing up a slung flake before the wide crack at the top. The rest were cams. Takes green alien (blue if you are REALLY gripped at the beginning) through #2 at the top. Leave the #3 on the ground. No need for the weight. Wonderful climb. 5.10a/b

I left a blue (small) Trango Flexcam at the bottom due to darkness and difficulties involv... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Elephantiasis (5.10 X)
By: William McGehee When: Oct 3, 2004

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Comments: First pitch is a wonderful ego-boost. Of course, that was since i went into it thinking it was 5.10x. The BC Guide was a little tricky with the description. I should have relied on the trusty-CB.com guide instead! Place bomber green aliens in the crack (which is much bigger than one is led to think from the descriptions) at the lip of the roof, layback to your left, feet high AND in the crack below and turn it. Lots easier than I thought. GREAT gear. If you want to push into the grade, do it her... more >>


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