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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Currey's Diagonal (5.10b)
By: willem When: Sep 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of last weekend. Two nice chains at the anchor. I am glad I didnt' have the fortune of the ascentionist in the previous comments!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Max Factor (5.11c)
By: willem When: Sep 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do this route!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: willem When: Sep 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor atop P2 is 2 good nuts and an old punded angle, all lovingly equalized with a single link. Bring some webbing if ya' like. Or perhaps a drill and bolts?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not (5.11c)
By: willem When: Aug 31, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, though it is disappointing that safe harware is not available for someone before the "1st bolt." As well, I don't understand the logic why the 10 to the left had all bolts removed.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerial Book (5.11a R)
By: willem When: Aug 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 protects reasonably well with a big Camalot and yellow/red Alien before any of the small wires. A couple of #3 RPs protects the stemming. Small wires and a couple of blue Aliens protect he tips crack. Giddy up!
The link would seem to be Aerial Book into P2 of Aeorspace and then finsih on Aeronaut. I am definitely trying this next time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Stigmata (5.10a)
By: willem When: Aug 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: i know the shameless can clip the bolts. but how about the just plain chicken? are they allowed to?
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: willem When: Jun 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb has been retrobolted. The manky old cold shuts have been replaced with new hangers, and I believe two new bolts got added. Not sure why there is one about three feet from the anchors though....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: willem When: Apr 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Schnikes....more like rest before the first bolt, and after clipping the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: willem When: Mar 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: #4 Wallnut fits well for the blind placement on P1. P2 isn't bad if you climb 11 sport. I thought the gear was even good (better than moving into P2 of Purple Haze).
But the hell can't someone put in a decent anchor at the top of this or Purple Haze? I mean really...do you really want to rap off those meager trees? Fine the...is bomber....but the slings are killing them. Face it Eldo is a high use area and could use some decent anchors in places.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: willem When: Mar 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have fun on the down climb. It's a little spicy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: willem When: Oct 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good movement, but the rock on P3 is sketchy. The large block needs to be trundled.
Double up on the Camalots, and bring large wires to sew up the first two pitches.
Good line!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Loose Ends (5.9)
By: willem When: Sep 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW! great route. continuous climbing the entire way on high quality stone. a must do for the grade!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : The Side Wall (5.11b R)
By: willem When: Sep 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb does not deserve the vs rating. If you have RPs and Aliens or TCUs the climb protects well. It is still spicy though unless you feel super solid climbing above RPs! Fun face, though.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: willem When: Jul 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Use a long draw or sling that will let your rope hang to the left of the edge.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Project (aka Who Haas Done ... (5.12d)
By: willem When: Jul 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Careful of the fractured undercling midway up. The route should clean up nicely. We TR'd it after finishing the 10a to the left. I can't believe no one has redpointed this yet!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World
By: willem When: Jun 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Road closed right now.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Flying Cowboys (5.12d)
By: willem When: Jun 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't get hustled onto the ledge. It was awkward getting back into the line. Just keep firing up!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Your Mother (5.12d)
By: willem When: May 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI...the last in situ draw has a sticky carabiner. I will replace it next time I am up there, but how do people feel about a wire gate?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: willem When: May 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are three pieces of fixed gear on pitch 3: wires above and below the pin. Not sure why the pin is there, the crack takes great gear.
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