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Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Disneyland Gunks


Member Since: Dec 1, 2012
Last Visit: Jul 6, 2016
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WillamR
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Total Points: 62
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 262 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 7 | Posts 180 | Stars 53 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: bottoms up

bottoms up

May 20, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Splayed out

Splayed out

May 20, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: sideview

sideview

May 20, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: handles

handles

Forums : ... :

Nov 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: pick 2 right

pick 2 right

Forums : ... :

Nov 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: pick 1 right

pick 1 right

Forums : ... :

Nov 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: pick 2 left

pick 2 left

Forums : ... :

Nov 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: pick 1 left

pick 1 left

Forums : ... :

Nov 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Tools left side

Tools left side

Forums : ... :

Nov 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Tools Right Side

Tools Right Side

Forums : ... :

Nov 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Disneyland Gunks

Top of Disneyland Gunks

The People of Mountain Proj... : WillamR : Climbing Shtuff

Aug 20, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Jun 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is my 3rd season leading, and I'm breaking into the 5.9 range, and I would not call this a gimme at even 5.7 on the route I used. This was the last climb of a fairly big day, but I was hoping for the happy 5.5 that the local guide told us this would be. I echo the comments above. 5.5 leaders be warned.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: WillamR When: Apr 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I personally find the section between the two bolts to be the crux. I had used my small gear already and had nothing to proctect the section between the bolts and was feeling decently run out by the time I clipped the second bolt. This section is what I feel is 5.8 face climbing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Mar 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I've led this climb thrice at this point. With proper footwork in the crack this climb is no harder than 5.6. Any competency with footjams and chicken wings makes the off width a breeze. I led it each time with a #5 and would admittedly feel uneasy without it.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall : The Sins of the Son (5.10b)
By: WillamR When: Sep 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Only found 6 bolts on this today --did I miss something?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Aug 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Got off route on the 2nd pitch due to not reading the guidebook. Got into an interesting traverse sequence that was more than I bargained for. I'd definitely call that section 5.7.

As for the 3rd pitch, I'd say the first roof goes at a solid 5.7. Harder than any other 5.6 roof in the gunks. Good hands/jams, but awkward.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: WillamR When: Aug 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I consider myself a solid Gunks 5.6 leader. I'm on the way out of the grade, and I just led High E this Monday.

I thought the moves were far easier than other 5.6's without the infamous "+" (wisecrack, wrist, disneyland to name a few). I wish I had done this climb when I was a little newer at the grade, so I could have gotten the full on experience, but I thought it was a nice little pitch with one or two 5.6 moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Playground : Fine Pine Line (5.7)
By: WillamR When: May 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Really enjoyed this route. I followed then led it, so I was able to find a key hold that made the crux stance far more comfortable on my lead attempt. The gear is all there, albeit small at the crux. This would feel 5.7 on an onsight attempt, but after finding the key holds it's in the 5.6 realm.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Gunks partners - From Albany AreaEastern StatesWillamRSep 1, 2015
re: Binghamton ClimberEastern StatesWillamRSep 1, 2015
re: NJ/NY/PA WeekdaysEastern and Southern StatesWillamRJun 22, 2015
re: Gear found on double crack at gunksLost and FoundWillamRJun 21, 2015
re: BD X4, ongoing real-world review (will update over time)Climbing Gear ReviewsWillamRJun 5, 2015
re: Gunks AAC campground update?Eastern StatesWillamRMay 14, 2015
re: Summer weekday partner!!!Eastern StatesWillamRMay 4, 2015
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