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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Judas (5.10c PG13)
By: Will S When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yesterday I watched a guy take the big whipper on this, from the last move before joining Toe Jam, the last bolt as his last pro. Kind of an ugly fall when he hit the rope, getting flipped/spun and ending up closed enough to the deck that an inattentive belay could have meant grounding. It's about 5.9- friction at the end of the runout, so be solid or place some gear after the bolt.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Five and Dime Cliff : Five and Dime (5.10d) : Photo
By: Will S When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice catch boys, but honest mistake. Blitzo's only got about 3 billion photos and Cashner used to solo all kinds of shit plenty harder than F&D.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : The Maneater (5.10d) : Photo
By: Will S When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, 10+ is about right for JT. I've done quite a few things in this style (wide roof cracks) in several areas. Crux is turning the lip and there are a lot of helper holds on this one. Give 'er a go.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Orange Julius Boulder
By: Will S When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is often a vehicle parked directly under these problems, as it's the parking spot for that campsite.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : Paisano Jam Crack (5.10a)
By: Will S When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The business on this is really short, the first 15' right off the ground, where it's just shy of vertical, then the angles kicks way back. Too short to recommend, even though the climbing and rock are good.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : Paisano Overhang (5.12c R)
By: Will S When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All time classic. Exposure, pride of place on the wall, history, moves, this one has it all. Not "R" with modern gear, although it can be difficult to place from strenuous positions.
Gear Beta: Belay anchor at start of route= 1 each: 0.5 camalot, pre-c4 #4 camalot, yellow#2 tcu or yellow alien. Roof in order to the lip, pre-c4 camalots = #4s before the constriction/jog, #4.5s after. Take two of each.
Access: Climb basically anything on the Weeping Wall or Sunshine Fac... more >>
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Incinerator Wall : The Incinerator (5.12a)
By: Will S When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route at Holcomb? Certainly the best I've done. Athletic and bouldery on a gorgeous lichen tinged wall with somewhat sustained and difficult movement up to/through the crux. A welcome change from the slabby edge surfing more typical of the area. Not overly tricky, this makes a good onsight candidate (I failed and had to go back another day for the send).
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Whiskey a Go-Go (5.13a)
By: Will S When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Whiskey was originally led on dicey natural protection, but has since been retro-bolted for the benefit of all. "
Lame.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Whiskey a Go-Go (5.13a) : Photo
By: Will S When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet. Another bolted crack line.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Tiger Rocks : Quasar (5.12a R)
By: Will S When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm curious if the FA party used some pins in that pre-placed gear? It looks like you'd need blades or LAs to protect the opening 15ft or so.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Rubberfat Syndrome (5.11a) : Photo
By: Will S When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "the most temporary hand/foothold in all of Josh."
R.I.P. Saw its demise 4/11/09.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : Where Janitors Dare (5.7)
By: Will S When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An adventurous outing for the 5.7 leader. Demands a bit of creativity. Be mindful of ropedrag and a bit of loose rock. Anchor takes finger sized cams, nuts, #3 camalot. Never a line for this one, and despite the title, not really that dirty with just a touch of grain. For a leader at/near their limit, rack fingers to as big as you have (a 6 friend wouldn't go unused) and maybe double up on the .75-3 camalot sizes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Papaya Crack (5.11b)
By: Will S When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Nick, I've also been on it three times. For clarity, you can get decent overhead gear to protect the moves getting into the corner (you don't HAVE to risk a groundfall)...but like I said, it will fill up the best lock and make the move substantially harder (still not the crux). And you might not actually deck if you fall from there, but it's going to be real close. I went up and down a few times hanging out midway through that sequence trying to wiggle in a bunch of different things (tcus, ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles Corridor : Grounder (5.9)
By: Will S When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I almost never tape at Josh or anywhere else (exception: Vedauwoo). But the rock around Split Rocks area is really agressive, and I'd definitely tape if doing these corridor cracks again.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Papaya Crack (5.11b)
By: Will S When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just revisted this one, lead it where I'd followed it before. A couple things stand out. First, this probably deserves a PG13. You're pulling some .10ish moves just below the crux with super fiddly gear, trying to get over the initial bulge and into the corner, looking at decking. You get a choice...mediocre gear in your best fingerlock, making the moves a good deal harder, or no gear (for those moves, there is gear lower) and a 12' groundfall if you blow it. So contra to Chris, I'd say this isn... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Judas (5.10c PG13)
By: Will S When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Without taking a specific piece (a yellow C3), this will be a tad run at the top. After the second bolt there's really not even a seam, but a couple of slots/scars show up in one spot. It's really your only option for pro and one of them will take a good yellow C3, but anything with a wider head and you're SOL...a yellow tcu gets you about 2 1/2 lobes engage. I didn't have the C3 and wished I did, YMMV.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : The Test Tube (5.11)
By: Will S When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this really awkward throughout. No bolts near the top of this (the bolt(s) are located for Crucible and would be a groundfall swing if you fell anywhere in the bottom 1/3 of this). If you're rigging a TR, beware that the metal pole directly above this is not sitting in concrete. The stuff just below the surface shell around the pole is a weird type of foam...so back if up...you can place some hand sized stuff.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles In The Sky : Wedlock (5.11a)
By: Will S When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic splitter that inexplicably gets no stars in Vogel. A little short, but it is Josh, and there's no rambling "filler" it's all quality. Ends on the giant chockstone, while the logical ending would have been to go another 15ft up the now bottomed out pro-less "crack" to the top. There's no gear available after the chockstone though, and without placing a bolt in the last stretch it would have been exciting to say the least.
Unless you're already going to be at Bird of Fire or the Isles ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks : Zebra Cliffs : Zebra Cliffs East Face : Around The World (5.10b)
By: Will S When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You may want to anchor the belayer for this one, a small vertical crack near the start works well with a tips sized cam and/or stoppers.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks : Zebra Cliffs : Zebra Cliffs East Face : Such A Line (5.10d)
By: Will S When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yosemite style splitter? Huh? Anyway, this is the best looking line at the crag and probably the longest as well. Quality but somewhat awkward climbing climbing in the flare. Inexplicably gets no stars in Vogel.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks : Zebra Cliffs : Zebra Cliffs East Face : Up And Down (5.8)
By: Will S When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is rated 10a in Vogel, I have no idea where Linfield got 5.8 for this. It is soft for 10a. The hardware is junk, 1/4" button head with a leeper hanger for the first bolt and not much better for the next two. Take some small gear, nuts and cams to .5 camalot, to supplement the widely spaced bolts. Med cams or large stoppers for an anchor. Walk off.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Mother Superior Boulder : Mother Superior (5.11d)
By: Will S When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fantastic exercise in bad sizes. The start is ridiculously steep if you can't get kneelocks and stacks (I had to armbar with sloppy thigh locks). Enough variations in size and angle to make it pretty technical getting through the transitions between techniques.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Vector Rock : Vector (5.11c)
By: Will S When: Dec 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If it took you 2 hours, you were definitely lost. About a 30min approach from Split Rock parking.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Heart and Sole (5.10a)
By: Will S When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this a week or two ago, and there are a couple of welded cams in there, one right off the deck and another in the bottom of the crack. One right off the ground is going to require some kind of hand tools to get out...chisel, hacksaw blade, something...at least there's a good stance to work on it.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happie... : Happy Boulders : ... : The Hulk (V6)
By: Will S When: Dec 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Description is a little dyslexic. Many sequences to gain "the boss" hold, which is the crux...and that's part of what makes this a great problem, there are many ways to solve it, yet all are slightly awkward. Awkwardness makes this a 3, rather than 4 star.
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