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Location: AZ : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Will Cobb When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Charles,
I know of several parties who have climbed this route in the dead of summer. I climbed it over the first weekend in September, and it was still pretty darn hot. Take plenty of water and start the hike in early. The route faces mostly north/north west and is in the shade almost all day. The higher you climb, the cooler it is, which is nice.
Good luck, have fun, and post a quick TR when you get back.
Will
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : Unknown TR (5.10a)
By: Will Cobb When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul or Larry, do you guys know who climbed this feature first? Dean and I could not have been the first to drop a rope on this arete. Fun climb though.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : TT's Terror (5.7+)
By: Will Cobb When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route again a few days ago. It really is high quality. Fixed TCU remains in place at the crux. Only one or two insecure moves through the pod leads to bomber jams and holds. Fun climbing on great rock.
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Location: MO : Capen Park : The Open Book (5.10+)
By: Will Cobb When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always liked this route because the crux came just at the very top. During my short time in Columbia it seemed like this route would get TRed quite often but rarely led. Karp would show up from time to time and lead the thing, but I never got up the nerve.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : Spread Flake (5.10)
By: Will Cobb When: Aug 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aimee,
Every other stopper should work fine, but I wouldn't lead this thing. For the most part you have to choose between gear and holds... Just TR it after climbing the Baxter Crack, which is much better anyway.
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Book Of Friends (5.10c)
By: Will Cobb When: Jul 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this route again with Dean today and it is still awesome. Two sets of cams to #4 Camalot plus a 4.5 and a 5 was great.
A bit of descent beta -
Rapping the route seemed pretty straight forward, but we took the Burcham raps down. These bolts as mentioned above are on the climber's right and sort of behind the route. A full 190' rap into a corridor brings you to two bolts with biners set in a chimney back behind you. As you near the end of your ropes start looking back an... more >>
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : The White Wall : Sporte (5.10c)
By: Will Cobb When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work by Dean and Chris Tatum to get new anchors put up on this route. Now it has two bolts with chains on the top out ledge.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : Bold is Love (5.10d)
By: Will Cobb When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is awesome. Pretty stout at 5.10+ but it should be at west elden.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks
By: Will Cobb When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi all. For those of you who don't know me my name is Will Cobb and I am the Access Fund Regional Coordinator for Northern Arizona. Chris Tatum from Vertical Relief Climbing Gym let me know about an active Turkey Vulture nest situated on the ledge at the top of T.L. Bush earlier this week. With help and feedback from the kind folks of the NACC we felt that a voluntary closure of the Gold Wall was in order. I have since learned that Turkey Vultures are protected under the Migratory Bird Treat... more >>
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : T.L. Bush (5.10 PG13)
By: Will Cobb When: Apr 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route with a heads up start. It is about 15" of 5.8 climbing with no pro to an atomic bomb proof #3 Camalot when the seam opens into a pod. The lieback is short but fierce. A strong climber could climb it straight on (.75 Camalot size) but I laidback for all I was worth. The remainder of the route climbs from stance to stance with great gear.
Larry - I have been working on my "cam toss" technique, but it just doesn't seem to work that great...
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Upper Religion Wall : Broken Arete (5.9)
By: Will Cobb When: Feb 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is amazing. The position, moves and exposure will not be easily forgotten. My favorite for the grade on the Church Wall.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Lower Religion Wall : Brown Hornet (5.11a/b)
By: Will Cobb When: Feb 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just right of Easy Rider this route is a fun way to finish after completing Broken Arete. Thin, technical face climbing gives way to a dihedral. Just when you think the business is over it throws a few more moves at you before easing off. All in all this is a great line.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Downtown : La Diosa (AKA Hacksaw Grann... (5.10)
By: Will Cobb When: Nov 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is by far the best 5.10 at West Elden. Every move on the headwall is just awesome. Great exposure and great climbing. This route is definitly goddess worthy.
After the bolt I placed a Blue Metolius TCU, then a Purple Metolius TCU. At the small stance look for a green Camalot placement in a pod.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : Middle Deception Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: Will Cobb When: Aug 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the crux I used the following -
A #2 camalot down low in a slot just to keep me from falling all the way back to the parking lot if I blew the crux gear. An Orange (#3) Metolius TCU and a Gold DMM (1.5 WC Friend Size) cam. Then, have a #2 or #1 camalot ready. Once you stand up in the pod it is possible to place a good cam and once again become safe from taking a fall onto the approach slab.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : Verse in Ragtime (5.8 PG13)
By: Will Cobb When: Aug 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route again with Tavis a few weeks ago and was reminded how balancy the crux really is. Leading this thing on tube chocks and rps would be simply a nightmare. Nice work Larry on getting this climb up. If this route were to be climbed today it would probably sport three or four bolts.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Downtown : Flameout (5.9-)
By: Will Cobb When: Aug 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg,
That is a great story. I will have to try the "Lameout" variation the next time I am up there.
A question, have you climbed Watermellon? (The next crack system to right of Flameout.)
Will
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : The Ultimate Dirty Sanchez (5.11a)
By: Will Cobb When: Aug 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jon is refering to the wild, loose, dirty, rotten, and dangerous third pitch. It has infact only been climbed once and is certainly not recommended. However if this sounds fun...
Head up the wide crack out of the alcove. From here head up following the path of least resistance to the canyon's rim. This pitch is at least 5.10+ with little to no pro anywhere. (5.10+ X)
There isn't anything like this pitch anywhere, especially not in Boulder.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Queenfolia (5.10)
By: Will Cobb When: Jun 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good point Greg. A #3 Camalot fits perfectly into the flake about halfway across. Additionally, it is fairly steep climbing across the flake, so place good gear and climb quickly when possible.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Yogi Crack Area : Hopping (5.9)
By: Will Cobb When: Jun 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My personal favorite of the three yogis. Nice jamming leads to the smooth upper dihedral. Just a nice route.
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Book Of Friends (5.10c)
By: Will Cobb When: May 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark,
When Jon and I climbed this thing several years go it was not possible to rap the route. Has something changed?
Jon and I topped out in the dark and had to tie our ropes together and do one long single line rap back to the deck. Burcham told me that there are rap anchors, but we never saw them... Do you have new Beta?!? I want to go down this summer and repeat the route.
Will
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Jungle Wall : Aqualung (5.10)
By: Will Cobb When: May 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aqualung is a great summertime route to climb when the pillow and prow walls are busy. Sweet stemming in the first 30' with locker jams. After the ow pod finish up an easier large hands crack. This route is difficult to set up a TR anchor on. A top belay or lead tends to work best.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: Will Cobb When: Apr 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dain,
Sleeping on the "bivi" ledge without a port-a-ledge will suck. At the bare minimum take a single ledge and whoever leads the pitch up to the bivi ledge (through the thrash chimney) gets to sleep in it. The best idea is to borrow, buy, or rent a double ledge or two singles. You will enjoy your night much more. However if that isn't possible, then fix to the rocker block on day one and descend to the ground. Come back the next day and blast the route in a day.
Have fun. It really is ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : Queen Victoria : Regular Route (5.7)
By: Will Cobb When: Apr 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: To avoid the pitch 2 OW climb straight up off the first belay and through a 5.7+ corner in the Limestone band. This ends at one of the rappel anchors. I would recommend climbing the OW pitch at least once though because it is fun.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Oak Creek Spire Area : Oak Creek Spire : North Face/West Crack (5.9+)
By: Will Cobb When: Apr 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of items about Oak Creek Spire.
1. The first pitch is insecure and scary at 5.8+. The climbing isn't that hard, but it is strange and insecure at times.
2. The rap anchor spoken of above is hidden very well. Look for two white/grey painted hangers that are facing almost directly north. As you top out the third pitch the rap anchor is down and around to the left.
3. This route is awesome because it throws a little bit of everything at you. The second pitch is great because it s... more >>
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Book Of Friends (5.10c)
By: Will Cobb When: Mar 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route, however it is very physically demanding. When I climbed it we took a double set of cams with one 4.5 camalot and one 5 camalot. This was very sufficient.
When I climbed the route we made our second belay on top of the chockstone that Greg describes. (Where he ended his adventure due to wet rock.) From here you are faced with two options - 1. The right hand variation is 5.10 and looks like thin hands. 2. The second variation is a 5.7+ to 5.8- chimney. Most of this ... more >>
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