Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Takin' Care of Business/ We... (5.5)
By: Will Clopton When: Jul 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is a rush! Very fun climb and well worth the hike. The leader must be comfortable being ten feet above your last piece in a chimney. The chimney is about 3 feet at its widest. Climbing is easier if you legs are longer. I found solid placements for a #3 Camalot and a #2 Camalot. Use a piton on the north wall near the west edge. As for the approach, there is a trail that stays about 50 to 100 feet north of the ridge heading up the north side of the fourth flatiron fro... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Schmoe's Nose : North Nostril (5.6)
By: Will Clopton When: Sep 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend approaching and descending by the well established trail to the south of the Fifth Flatiron.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Schmoe's Nose : North Nostril (5.6)
By: Will Clopton When: Sep 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did a variation on this route. Instead of going left into the dihedral, I stayed out on the north-east edge until I reached a loose piton at the top. I backed the piton up with a cam and traversed left under the roof. I would rate this variation at 5.7 for shorter people.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Red Devil : East Face Right/Red Devil (5.6 R)
By: Will Clopton When: Jul 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend going to the summit. From the large ledge at the top of pitch two, follow the ledge up and south to a flat area. There you will see the first vertical east-west crack to the north of the summit. On the north side of this crack you will find an easy way up the corner, and up the crack. I went down into a bowl and there was an easy ramp up to the summit. The summit is protectable. Five feet west of the summit is a horizontal crack that I got couple of 1.5 tri-cams and red TCU in.... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch : East Face/Back Porch (5.6)
By: Will Clopton When: Jul 26, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you do the double rope rappel, be sure not to toss the ropes too far out, getting them on top of the trees near the west face. You can't see all the trees from the top rappel anchor. Both my ropes were in the trees and one rope looped the branches when I was trying to free it. I was lucky and managed to pull the ropes free. I suggest tossing the ropes just over the first lip, where they will land on the large ramp below. From there you will see where you can do a second toss. This was a... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Will Clopton When: Jun 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: http://www.dwebsoft.com/Will/Climbing/RappelRuper.html
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Will Clopton When: Jun 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are many ways to descend from Upper and Lower Ruper. Here is a link my personal notes describing in detail the rappels down Chockstone Chimney, Song of the Dodo (Vertigo), Predator (Rosy Crucifixion), T2, Redguard, etc. _A HREF='http://www.dwebsoft.com/Will/Climbing/RappelRuper.html'_http://www.dwebsoft.com/Will/Climbing/RappelRuper.html_/A_
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Northwest Face (5.8)
By: Will Clopton When: Jun 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Set a good anchor behind the belayer so that a leader fall on the first traverse move won't pull them off the pipe and over the ledge. A small nut high in the crack after the first traverse move will protect the second from a ground fall. A tri-cam works for the start of pitch two. Very satisfying climb!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Will Clopton When: Jun 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Charles Vernon's comment I set the belay for pitch one at the bottom of Ruper Crack. No rope drag and your belayer can watch you. I highly recommend it. Fun route!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Will Clopton When: May 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: To rappel west, go approximately 80 feet north and you will see a large tree with a webbing anchor down about 10 feet from the ridge. This has an exposed down climb without a ledge. Following the advice above, continue north along the ridge about 50 feet further. Looking down onto a 10 foot wide ledge you will see a tree with a webbing anchor about 10 feet down from the ridge. Using a 60 meter rope we rappeled about 85 feet to a large ledge and walked south 15 feet and down 10 feet to the ne... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Will Clopton When: May 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend the boulder start. It was more fun than being in the chimney. I got two psychological nuts in the piton scar before making what turned out to be very easy slab moves to a comfortable shelf on the boulder. The crux to me was the tricky moves at the end of pitch one. On the traverse left, go up to the left of the bolt. Being 5 ft 7 in, I could just reach the handhold. I yarded on it with no feet and found a nice crack above. I threw a left heel up and was over. I think this is ... more >>
|
RSS Feed
