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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Spring Break (5.11+)
By: Will Butler When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route, one of the best single pitches I've been on at Red Rocks. Spring Break, as well as Tarantula and Gotham City, would be very hard to send first go without rehearsing the moves on TR. Spectacular piece of stone.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Darkie the Bum Beast (5.12d)
By: Will Butler When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "What's in a name? That which we call a rose
By any other name would smell as sweet."
~Romeo and Juliet (II, ii, 1-2)
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Location: CO : Alien Inventor Passes Away
By: Will Butler When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: His memory will live on in every time I'm totally gripped and somehow manage to perfectly slot a yellow Alien.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek
By: Will Butler When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Josh. Mill Creek is an amazing area and an absolute gem. I understand you wanting to keep it that way but it seems almost malicious to give vague directions to the place. There's nothing cool about starting someone's trip by getting them lost. Mountain Project is about an open forum of climbers helping climbers and why would you even create this post if it withholds directions, places to camp, facilities, ect. My thanks goes to Aimee Rose and Richard Magill for helping to bridge the informat... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Freedom Boulder : Freedom (V10)
By: Will Butler When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's an awesome V7 variation that starts with your right hand on the crimp and your left hand and foot on the lip. Super core intensive but an amazing problem.
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Location: CO : Celebrate Eldorado 2008
By: Will Butler When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the biggest events of the year for the Front Range climbing community and I can't wait to see everyone there. Also, is there a place where we can put in input about the day's projects? It would be great if we could do some work to create an actual trail up to the Kloof Alcove.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Photo
By: Will Butler When: Jul 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The wall is located above the A Boulders and looks to have a lot of new route potential for those intereested in some alpine cragging.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (5.10a A4- R)
By: Will Butler When: Jul 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe that Asa Firestone and Matt Othmer did the second ascent of this route last summer. They were bummed to see that an old RURP was fixed in the crux as they were up there to claim the first ascent. Absolutely beautiful looking line though I hear that the top seeps quite a bit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Thunderdome (5.12a)
By: Will Butler When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route. Thunderdome is pretty moderate before and after the crux, but the crux moves felt like solid 12a. My beta seemed different from everyone else's here so the best advice I have is just to get out there and figure it out for yourself. You'll likely have it to your lonesome even on sunny summer weekends. Isn't it great bringing trad gear to a sport crag.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove
By: Will Butler When: May 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's beyond me why anyone would want to change a name as sweet as Lycra Clad Donkeys. Lycra Clad Monkeys might however be a suitable compromise. I just like the image.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Triple Direct (5.9 C1-)
By: Will Butler When: May 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recognize that it is difficult to outline the pitches on such massive walls as El Cap, but a greater effort should be made in keeping with standards of this site. 2 cents worth.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hayutake (AKA "Heyduke Live... (5.10+ PG13)
By: Will Butler When: Mar 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the direct start felt more like 11- rather than the 5.10 rating that bloom gave it. This might however have something to do with the PG nature of the opening moves.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Monster Block : Days of Whining Posers (V6)
By: Will Butler When: Nov 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing problem. After reaching the crimps in the upper seam, I locked off and threw up and right for the lip at the roof. This seems to be a much better finish than continuing along worsening crimps to the top.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Will Butler When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing line. I was suspicious about my friend's heed to bring four #3s for the first pitch but was very glad that I did. Think Indian Creek splitter. Even with this gear there were times when I pushed pieces up 20 ft. If you were trying to sew it up I'd bring 5-6 BD #3s as well as a #4 for this long and spectacular pitch.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Funkdemental (5.11b)
By: Will Butler When: Apr 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11a seemed about right for this excelent climb. Great exposure up wild holds and pockets. I didn't feel that it was contrived as long as you stayed on the arete proper. 4 stars.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Unusual Weather (5.11b/c)
By: Will Butler When: Apr 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best routes, regardless of the grade, at Shelf Road. For whats is worth, I felt this to be a much better route than its close neighbor Back to the Future. The climbing on Unsual Weather allows for fluid movement up pockets and crimps with a variety of places to shake out. There is also about 15 feet of run-out 5.9 crack climbing to the anchors thrown in for good measure. Additionally, the Surreal Estate Wall has to be one of the most aesthetically pleasing cliffs out here ... more >>
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Location: * In Progress : Indoor Walls : Tennesee Indoor Walls : Indoor Walls
By: Will Butler When: Apr 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anything involving indoor rock climbing should be stricken from this website. This has historically been a site dedicated to exchanging information about outdoor climbing routes and should not be utilized as a place for gym advertisement.
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Location: CO : Memorial for Charlie Fowler...
By: Will Butler When: Feb 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a shame that an important memorial such as this will conflict with the slideshows of Topher Donahue and Roger Briggs at the opening of the new expansion of the BRC.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: Will Butler When: Sep 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was [wondering] if anyone knows the name of the beautiful left facing, over hanging dihedral that can be done as a variation to the last pitch on climbers right. It was amazing climbing but it felt like it was rarely done. Thanks. - Will Butler
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake - West Gully (WI4)
By: Will Butler When: Nov 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route on Saturday. The ice was in fat on the west gully and all throughout the Black Lake area. Avalanche danger was a major threat however on the descent so be careful. Incredible route. -Will Butler
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