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Member Since: Aug 19, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 89 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts 72 | Stars | Ratings

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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : AltaTraz (5.11c)
By: wilcox510 When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: The lower half of this is absolute choss. I've never sent so much rock down on my belayer before... And took a pretty good whipper when a hold broke. The upper half is pretty decent, but there is no way its 11+ as listed on the guide. 11a sounds more like it, but thats the general theme with the newer Hellgate climbs, overated and chossy.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror of Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: wilcox510 When: Jun 27, 2010

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Comments: Fantastic route, but I don't think there is really anything terrifying about it. It actually protects really well with small cams and medium stoppers. I thought think the crux of Crack of Doom is harder, but Terror is much more sustained.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Hole in the Wall (5.11-)
By: wilcox510 When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: I'm sure its just my general dislike for offwidths and flares etc, but I absolutely hated this route and found it to be the hardest 11- I have ever done at IC (again, I suck at this type of climbing). One massive grunt. Two different flares, both amazingly awkward. I have sort of smallish hands and the majority of this route was big cupped hands in the back of a hateful flare. The last 20 feet or so were actually OK, but thats it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Scar Tissue (5.11a)
By: wilcox510 When: Oct 1, 2009

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Comments: There is now an extremely fixed offset nut around the "nest of RPs" spot. Very cool route. Maybe I was being irrational but I was fairly scared the whole time on lead. Continuously challenging with OK but not great gear (apparently with the exception of that nut placement...). I led this the same day as leading Crack of Doom and found this far more mentally taxing.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : The Comp Wall : Splitter (5.11b)
By: wilcox510 When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: Fun route, but I don't think its any harder than 11a (Harvest at the COR felt harder at 10d). I would suggest more small gear and less big gear. Once you get to the #1 Camalot size crack its pretty easy. Cams work fine down low (0.5 and 0.75 really low, then some small TCUs before and after the roof).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Wop Dego (5.5)
By: wilcox510 When: Jun 26, 2009

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Comments: Um, yeah. Thats not 4th class. People downclimb 5th class all the time, the Casual Route on the Diamond has been downclimbed solo, does that make it 4th class?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: wilcox510 When: Jun 20, 2009

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Comments: This may be more like 10+ than 11-, but calling it 10a is ridiculous. Super fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Total Chaos (5.11-)
By: wilcox510 When: May 28, 2009

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Comments: There is some fun climbing on this, but there is a ton of loose and/or breakable rock and that weird crappy chalky rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Coyne Crack (5.12a)
By: wilcox510 When: May 20, 2009

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Comments: I'm not sure if this is actually easier for the small handed folks. I have small hands and I can get better jams than some once it gets to the red Camalots, but the bottom is brutal for me, it's sort of just too wide to get any decent ring locks while my friend with much larger hands could actually get some decent locks down there. I guess it's just the same as any other IC route, the difficulty is hand size dependent. Regardless, it's an amazing route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : unnamed classic hand crack ... (5.10+)
By: wilcox510 When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: I'd call this 5.11-. I put a few blue camalots in, and I also placed a 4 camalot in the wide slot (you could put something smaller in the back of the slot). Fairly pumpy and physical. Really fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : 3 Strikes You're Out (5.11)
By: wilcox510 When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: I think this is a fair bit easier than Battle of the Bulge. After the first 20 feet or so its pretty much all red camalots with some slightly larger jams for rests (you can slip a couple gold camalots in up higher). Really fun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Sesh One Cooking (5.11-)
By: wilcox510 When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: This is actually called Sesh One Cooking. Really fun route, you only need about 2 .5 camalots but the number of greens and reds sounds about right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : Desp-ArÍte (5.10d PG13)
By: wilcox510 When: Jul 2, 2008

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Comments: Decent route, falling at the crux could be ugly, easy to hit the pillar below.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Drunk Punk Oi (5.11b/c)
By: wilcox510 When: Aug 24, 2007

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Comments: This is a really fun route, cool moves the whole way, one of the best two I've done in this canyon.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: wilcox510 When: Aug 24, 2007

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Comments: After talking to James, it sounds like I wandered all over the Castle. Apparently I started on Black streak but then finished on Evil Eye, so my description above isnt really accurate for Black Streak. However, it sounds like the last pitch of Evil Eye may be the best top-out pitch, so you might want to consider this link up. That last pitch is rated 5.11, but 5.11 is about my limit and I lead it without too much difficulty, so give it a shot (sweet climbing on the last pitch!)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : King on the Throne : King on the Throne - West : Double Cracks (5.10a)
By: wilcox510 When: Aug 20, 2007

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Comments: This is a great route, but to me it seems much more difficult than either Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice (two of the area classic 10a cracks). The crux is short, but both times I've lead this is kind of worked me.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: wilcox510 When: Aug 19, 2007

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Comments: Just did this today for the first time. A couple thoughts...As someone else said, I would not climb this route with another party above you. Way too much loose stuff. I wouldnt even rappel this route, the walkoff is very easy and scenic (bring hiking shoes). I would be afraid of all the loose rock when pulling the rope. The last pitch we did started about 40 feet LEFT, not right, of the fixed line mentioned. We continued on a bolted line for about 5 bolts worth of very cool climbing (felt about ... more >>