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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : The Guardian : Weather Window Waltz (The G... (5.9)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I flaked on writing anything up about this! Fun route. After the first 2 or 3 pitches in the obvious dihedral just above the toe of the dihedral, you can pretty much go anywhere and the grade will be the same. Easy climbing with a few short steps up to 5.9. Mostly quality rock, but there are some widow makers in there, so be careful.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice crack, but just a little too short.
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Location: WA : Darrington : Unknown Left of Bored Walk (5.9)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two bolted climbs to the left of Under the Boardwalk and still under the Great Arch (this one and a 5.10a just to the left). There are two other climbs (sharing a first pitch) the climb up from left of the Great Arch then branching out.
Can rap this with 2 ropes or using the intermediate anchors.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Overexposure (5.8)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little short but worth doing if you dont have much time. With a 70m the climb can be done in one pitch to the trees above the 2nd bolted rap anchor then a scramble to the top (maybe 10' of 5.low slab).
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Scud Area : Stud Alert (5.10b)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe that one roof move is 10c, but the rest is cruisy.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Karate Crack (5.10a)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great crack for tuff! I couldnt find the bolts at first glance after traversing right. Look down and right (behind you). A little funky but fun.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arrowhead Arete : Arrowhead Arête (5.8)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun position for a valley climb well away from the crowds. We did it in 5 pitches linking the first and second and belaying from the top of the great white flake with has a much better stance though fewer pro options.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arrowhead Arete : Arrowhead Spire (5.6)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did it in one long pitch with a 70m and a little simuling on really easy terrain.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Sunnyside Bench : Jamcrack (5.9)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb although the nice crack on the second pitch is a little short. You can TR a few fun 10s as well from the top of the 1st pitch.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had a #4 camalot with me and used it. Though you could probably get away without it.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing is really varied and fun. Definitely worth doing, even if there is a little bit of crowd. I thought the lie back was a little tricky being wet and having no warmup right off the bat.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Boston Basin : Forbidden Peak : West Ridge (5.6 Mod. Snow)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route covering a nice range of alpine conditions. We did it car to to car in a long day although Boston Basin is gorgeous and would be worth while spending a night or two in. We opted to do the east ridge and found the route finding easy and the overall experience of circumnavigating the mountain kind of fun.
Snow conditions were fine and there was a reasonable set of steps from a group that climbed a day or two before. The climbing on the ridge is stellar, but short:( We complete... more >>
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Stanley-Burgner Route (5.9+ PG13)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the 5.8 variation and immediately got into a beautiful hand crack which is way more appealing to me than any chimney out there. Linked this pitch with the short 4th class second pitch and belayed at the top of the larch trees. Went up the crack trending right, then up a short slab to a dihedral. I am not sure if this first dihedral you come to is a the standard route but it seemed a little stiffer that 5.8 to me (5.9 I would say). We also linked the 3rd and 4th pitches but I wouldn't ... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Braille Book (5.8)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route to move into 5.8 territory. The 5.6 and 5.7 sections are steep and well protected with fun features everywhere.
I brought an old BD 3.5 that came in handy a few times, you could probably get away with a 3 but for that extra pro its worth lugging along.
Avoid a backpack, its definitely a nuisance in the chimney as well ad the 5.8 OW which is in a pretty sharp corner.
We linked 5 and 6 together with some nasty rope drag and wind, but everything worked out alright.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I havent done many climbs at Lover's Leap, but this was definetely my favorite! There is a great variety of moves and rock type, coupled with fun exposure. We were not even that early (maybe 8) in mid august, and had no wait, and finished the climb well within the time when it is still cool and comfortable. Dont let posts about crowds stop you from this great climb.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Wesley Ashwood When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! The reach is fun with plenty of good feet is you are not as lanky as someone like me. The 5.9 move at the top is definetely worth it, though it felt a little more than a 5.9 after waiting at the 2nd belay for 45 minutes for a group from east face to finish up. Its worth bringing 2 sets of cams, I had to run things out a little more than I would have liked.
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