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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Faith, Hope and Charity (5.12b R)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jun 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats on the headpoint Joe and Alex, looks like a great line I'm excited to check it out!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Tango (5.11)
By: Wayne Crill When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad y'all enjoyed it Josh and Joe, consensus appears to be settling at lower-mid .11, that's cool. Yeah Joe, the sloping alcove at the top full of loose rocks is very sub-optimal for sure, really can't clean the loose rocks off either . . . and a bolted belay at the lip would be preferable, not exactly sure where it would go up there, if you find a good spot and want to submit the application, I'll suport it! but for the app process, I just don't think that dog will hunt? If you can do foxtr... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10)
By: Wayne Crill When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Phenomenal! I'll never forget gazing up at this crack from the snowfield at the bottom after a rapid descent from the rim, summer '98, Clean Dan was there preparing to rap in for the line. I didn't know a thing about the routes but knew I'd be back for this *splitter*. Did a few other routes on the wall a few times before I sac'd up for The Warrior. I really didn't think it could be too bad since the granite is so rough and the crack edges are not smooth (not *splitter*). And I was pretty a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : ... : Photo
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you get into the crack above the boulder problem crux, it's cruiser 5.10, but still really on your arms, with a couple 5.11 moves to escape the crack and get up on the lower angle face.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : ... : Photo
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe is continually coming up with the sage corrections! Although I believe that's Brad Durbin belaying me on a late 2008 ascent.
Nice photo but it in no way indicates how steep it is in that section.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave its between 20' and 30' from the last bolt to the anchor, prob pretty close to 25' I would guess. However the 5.11 climbing finishes at/around 10-12' above the bolt (hence your feet are just above the bolt)and the angle and difficulty of the climbing drop off rapidly from there to something approaching 5.7 at the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been a while since I've looked at these comments and to me it seems a few final (!?) comments are in order. I'm bummed Bob D. removed his enjoyable comments on this and many other routesfrom the database, neverthtless . . . Wooohooooo! awesome job Kev on creating a nuevo Eldo classic!
I think this route has now stood the test of time: It's heady, but safe, and not for everyone: completely within the Eldo tradition. At the grade its totally reasonable, comments from someone like MS, wi... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpinist Re-launched
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not that it really matters but any word as to weather they will honor outstanding subscriptions to the original Alpinist? I presume not and that's fine but I did have like 2.5 yrs in advance already paid when they went under.
Guess I can just call the #.
edit to add: or actually *read* the post! thanks T.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Warm Up Crack (5.8)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great little warm-up. Really a high-quality nice problem, for the little scrappy stuff here. It's probably worthy of two stars (especially since I gave "The Bowels" a star -it's cool!). Jimmy Menendez is the one who first brought us out here in 2003/04 I think, he, Kevin, Hank, and I soloed or led all these fun little scrappers around that point in time, I think I even had names for them at one point? Cool to see people getting after this fun little stuff.
The left side of this co... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Marry Me Becky (5.10)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jan 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes the name is correct, although I believe the FA is Gallagher, or maybe Gallagher/Menendez?
The route name comes from when we were all putting up these routes, we'd never see anyone except the occasional rock hound. One day we saw that someone had spelled marry me becky out with the quarried RR rocks near the edge of the hill (probably still somewhat remains). We lauged about it but 2 hrs later as Kevin was leading the FA on this route a young man came up over the hill at the message, the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Pygmy Pony (5.9)
By: Wayne Crill When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this line yesterday not previously knowing anything about it. I think it's better than Dougald and Dave imply. Yeah, I guess it's a bit contrived, but it is big fun for when you're in the area, easily toproped off the SM anchors and a safe lead at the grade (though not for breaking into it). For maximum contrived fun, I recommend the unprotected 20' direct slab approach off the ground (between DL and SM), nice quality, some kinda .10.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Crazy Fingers (5.12a/b PG13)
By: Wayne Crill When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree about the lack of an anchor being really "inconvenient" on this route. After redpointing this route, I was traversing over to the Parallels anchor. I didn't think I'd need any gear for this as I have traveresed around on this slab quite a bit, however I did have a couple nuts just in case. The way I go there is one section thats not trivial, its not hard, I don't know ~5.7 at the hardest, I decided to put a nut in the slab above Foxtrot crack just in case. I was stepping through this... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : MRJR (aka MB III) (5.12d R)
By: Wayne Crill When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was really big fun for a little route with an exciting bouldery crux up high. Really fun movement. The crux is well protected and its a clean fall. I hope people check this line out as its well worth the effort and quite 'reasonable' at the grade, only jalepeņo spicy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Family Man (5.12a)
By: Wayne Crill When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route Chris, fun climbing and lots of it. Kudos on the heavy labor Matt.
I agree with Steve and gotta say bro, after all your squealing about the "contrived runout" on Kevin's route Wishbone in Eldo, that was quite the little contrived run-out atop this route, seriously out of character with the plethora of nice bolts on the rest of it. Not that I'm suggesting anyone waste their time or money adding one as it's fine. Better than fine, it's a great addition, with more traffic it should b... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Wayne Crill When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun classic line, easy romp to a great FF descent. I'm sure no one will see this comment for years, but why is it that so many of these Flatirons face climbs are just given a grade like 5.5 and no R or X rating? Historical? Certainly many of the classic Flatiron east faces would be considered R or X routes if the difficulty was more severe? just curious
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Wayne Crill When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree Mal, this is a very good line but not quite "Eldo classic" quality, However, . . . ahem, by your criterion Pansee Sauvage could not possibly be an Eldo classic either since "it's a frickin' bolt route!!!"
But it too is very good!
paz y amor
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Wild Years (5.11)
By: Wayne Crill When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My understanding was that the inception, conception, and FA of this route was 100% Mr. Hankey.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Wayne Crill When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dougald, my understanding is that this area was off limits until about 1.5-2 yrs ago when the land was purchased by Open Space, from the mine/quarry owners. This is also word of mouth, but my information is that Jimmy Menendez spoke with Open Space about this and the purchase was confirmed. I believe C. Leubben knows of the official status.
What I do know is that at this time ~ 2 yrs ago, the barbed wire fence with no-trespassing signs was taken down (still visible under the power lines) and... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall
By: Wayne Crill When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flared thin hands crack on the smaller right buttress with anchors at the top is "the short tour", the line on the far L. of this butress, fingers to fists up high is Marry Me Becky ~5.10, Menendez and Gallagher respectively. All these route were done years ago.
I concur with Darren, Bone Crusher is the standout route at the crag and one of the best splitters "around".
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12b/c)
By: Wayne Crill When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regardless of what it is being called the correct name of this route, as given by JM is Bone Crusher.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : The Masterbator's Edge (5.12a R)
By: Wayne Crill When: Mar 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a spectacular route: a highly aesthetic line with great position and fun and delicate moves. Were it not for the less than stellar rock down low, I say its a four star neo-classic. Highly recommended, its easy to set up a TR off the Terminal velocity anchor bolts and a sling around a horn. I think this route could become a classic addition to the 5.10 crack-terminal velocity-TR circuit.
I think this route is very similar in grade and quality and severity to the Lion as a fall from the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Kubla Khan (5.11c)
By: Wayne Crill When: Feb 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is a quite good pitch. I am definitely biased as I enjoy and have great respect for Sharp's routes. Nevertheless, I say easily two stars even though it is a bit of a one move wonder (felt more like a three move wonder technically). Protection-severity wise it seems pretty standard ELDO to me, not 's'. I suppose PG13 for the potential slab smack at the crux. However, FYI my partner fell at the crux and hitting the slab was not a concern. Edit: I should say that hitting the slab... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Zip Code (5.11-)
By: Wayne Crill When: Feb 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice route, very enjoyable climbing for the entire route. I always find grading routes a bit difficult, but I think the best way to assess is to compare to standard routes with generally accepted grades at the same crag/area. My opinion is that this route is absolutely no more difficult or challenging than Air Mail (next crack left), in fact I think they are very similar overall. Now, Air Mail is one of the most challenging 5.9+'s I've done and I think most people agree that it's qu... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Wayne Crill When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please please please don't no-one take this offensively, but related to Bob's comment, what is the difference between 11b and 11c? I mean that is possibly the most frequent grade I climb, and there are many routes I believe to be 11b and many 11c, then there are those that everyone else seems to believe are 11b and they sure feel like 11c or more to me, and vice-versa. Anyhow it seems like picking hairs to me . . thats why I like a three grade system, at least through 5.11: #-, the @POU... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Wayne Crill When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd just like to make a few comments re the above discussion.
First, there is room in Eldo for a variety of styles, so this route with mixed gear and bolts seems pretty reasonable. Second, there are so many routes in Eldo, bolts or trad gear, with long runouts near the top after the difficult climbing eases (often it doesn't really!) that 'arguing' about that seems more contrived to me than any of the climbing/bolting itself. Third, so there is some lichen and a loose hold or two up there, ... more >>
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