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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2008
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Point Rank: # 415
Total Points: 1,399
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 309 | Routes 76 | Areas 29 | Photos 22 | Page Improvments | Comments 94 | Posts | Stars 86 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face Left (5.5)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jan 10, 2002

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Comments: The route George and I followed (Roach's description) runs left of the route shown in the scanned picture. We were 3 to 20 feet from the left arete for most of the way.

Also, there are a couple of ways of climbing the roof directly. The bolt mentioned in the 3rd picture (I thought it was a piton) protected the weakness on the right side of the roof. We went for the crack on the left (no piton but good pro). Of course, you can by-pass the roof to the left thus dropping the rating from 5.7 to 5.5... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Takin' Care of Business/ We... (5.5)
By: Warren Teissier When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: I also read this reference to the Doobies and Takin' care of business on a Roach trip report on his web site.

The only issue is, Takin' Care of Business is a Bachman Turner Overdrive (BTO) song, one of their greatest hits no less.

This makes absolutely no difference, I know. Just wondering if the Doobies ever made a cover of this song...

Did anyone attend that concert?

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Purgatory (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Dec 10, 2001

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Comments: In an effort not to ruin Mike's cryptic set up of the route description, but in the interest of safety (and after checking with him), here it goes:

We used a 60M rope for this climb

First belay: 10 feet right of the base of the trough at a small crack/flake (bomber pieces)

Second belay: 60 meters (200ft) farther up in a small bowl at the top of the trough. A 50M rope will obviously NOT reach. For those of you with 50M ropes there seems to be a flake right and slightly below the bowl. Not sure... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : 1911 Gully (5.5)
By: Warren Teissier When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: George, you forgot the part about "crawling on bat guano" under some boulders before entering the gully. All in all, a stylin' route....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : East Bench Dihedral (5.2)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 29, 2001

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Comments: I would give this route two stars, and it can be finished nicely by continuing up the South East Face (5.3) route to the top of the First Pinnacle. This makes for a nice transition from a chimney to an exposed arete with descent pro and nice exposure.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Left Side (5.7)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 8, 2001

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Comments: This route is fun in spite of the huge thrashing in and out.

We felt the route was burly. Not a 5.7 in my book. Felt almost as hard as the 1st pitch of the Yellow Spur although a bit shorter...

The Shadow canyon ascent is rough and somewhat scary as stated by Joshua, but descending towards Shadow Canyon is downright Spooky. The 4th class section is exposed and goes through a band of really rotten rock while walking on scree filled 2 foot ledges. Be really careful and do not bring novices up o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 8, 2001

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Comments: The two bolts are on the south side of the East face about 10 feet from the summit. They had 3 or 4 weathered slings around them (10/6/01) which makes me think some folks are actually using them to rappel off of them on the East face side.

The bolts are very old and rusty, stick out about 1/4" and both hangers are, as you might expect, really loose. I used them as a belay set up to lower my partner down to the Iron bar for the standard rappel. The downclimb to the bar is not as easy as it sound... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 1, 2001

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Comments: As stated by Mike, this is the mother of all rappels.

We were able to do both rappels (independently) with a 60M rope. Grant it, there was not a lot of rope left, but it was comfortable enough. Also, there was no wind the day we did this.

Now, I have heard horror stories of people being swung out by the wind away from the crow's nest and having to time the descent with the variations in the wind... Needless to say this would be even more horrific if all you had left were 10 feet of rope as you... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/Pellea (5.5 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 1, 2001

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Comments: I did this climb last week, and I have to agree with the (S) rating comment. I am used to Flatiron run outs but the combination exposure/run out on the first crux is pretty awesome.

Perhaps if I had brought a small TCU I could have protected on the flake to the right of the crux.

This being said, Pellea is an awesome climb, it is clear why it made the top ten ranking on Roach's book.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : Ridge 3 aka Angel's Way
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 21, 2001

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Comments: I soloed this ridge today.

It is indeed a really cool route. Face, friction, even a beautifull 50 foot layback dihedral at a nice comfortable angle.

Can't beat the setting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: After an 8 year hiatus from climbing, two years ago I picked up my old rack and went at it again. Reggae was one of my first leads, heck, it's just a 5.8 right? Wrong!

Having done many a 5.8s since, I have to say I do not necessarily agree with the comments above.

It is probably a 5.8 but a burly one at that. I think it is significantly harder than say Wind Ridge (5.8 variation), the 5.8s in Yellow Spur and Bastille Crack.

Maybe it's just me, but I would encourage budding 5.8 leaders to appro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: I made the mistake of assuming the crux was in the thin crack section near the bottom and foolishly decided to tackle the wide section with no pro. Needless to say things got a bit desperate when I reached the crux and my last piece was 25 feet below me (clearly in decking territory)

The crux comes about 40 feet off the ground where the wide crack narrows enough to force your leg out of the offwidth jam. As stated by Ben, to pro this correctly, 2 number 4 Camalots would be needed (unless you ca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 28, 2001

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Comments: I agree that the 5.7+ 3 pitch was harder than P1. But as Ben said, it is quite fun. The crack is pretty wide for most of the pitch and I placed my wide pieces up front, leaving me with a good run out. The jams are great though so it wasn't emotionally shattering, I think... :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch : East Face/Back Porch (5.6)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 7, 2001

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Comments: P1 and P2 can be done as one pitch. I climbed past the tree in the notch and belayed at a tree 20 feet further up.

I did two one rope rappels. Make sure the first rappel set up clears the lip of rock (long lip). I didn't do this and it took 10 minutes of yanking and all my strenght to retrieve the rope. I suggest bringing a long piece of webbing and a rap ring... The second rappel is off an overhanging belay from a bunch of slings.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 7, 2001

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Comments: Charles, that being said, someone did take a pretty good fall to yank and bend that bolt.

I certainly hope it didn't bend like that on a simple hang.

So for those who WILL do something pretty stupid beware of the second bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jul 21, 2001

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Comments: What a great route.

A couple of comments: Combined pitch 4 and 5 as suggested and had a rope drag nightmare after clearing the roof. Next time I will move the belay to the base of the 5.4 dihedral (20 feet to the right) and put an extra long sling before starting the roof traverse.

The second bolt on the 10C variation, pitch before last, is about 1/4" out of the wall and bent. Someone took a screamer on this baby. If I had to bet, I'd give it less than 50% chance that it'll hold another fall.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : North Face (5.6)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jul 9, 2001

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Comments: The descent can be done with two single rope rappels provided you have a 60m rope (200ft). The second rappel finishes on top of a large flake (20ft tall and 2 feet wide. From there, it's an easy downclimb. I did it with a 50m rope and had to use the last inch of the rope (had to untie the knots on the rope) and stem like mad to make it onto the flake.... Not recommended....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 25, 2001

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Comments: George Bell and I did the North Face last week and actually found the Walton traverse... (glad George didn't take us through the Bell variation).

Climb past the tree at the first belay ove left a few feet and up a hard looking vertical section that looks harder than it is (great hand holds). After about ten feet, you will find two manky rivets... From there traverse left and slightly up to a piton (George backed it up with a Stopper). From here the second belay ledge is about 20 feet to the lef... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Warren Teissier - I found the first pitch to be rated correctly but tough to protect (marginal placements and sparse). The closer you get to the traverse into the crack the sparser the pro.


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