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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2008
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Point Rank: # 429
Total Points: 1,399
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Warren Teissier been climbing?










Contributions


All 309 | Routes 76 | Areas 29 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 94 | Posts | Stars 86 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Warren Teissier When: Jul 1, 2002

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Comments: Why am I not surprised Josh?

Sorry bud, I don't think beating me would help you make a name for yourself, try beating Oveson's time for starters and then you can try Bill, Buzz and company...

Signing your name to your posts does not constitute a challenge to the World... Or maybe it does? It is just simple courtesy.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jul 1, 2002

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Comments: Bill Wright was kind enough to drag me up this route this morning. What an absolute classic.

Really enjoyable, both from a climbing perspective and from a historical perspective. It is not everyday that you can climb a route mentioned in both Pat Ament and Royal Robbins' biography.

The 5.11 finger/off hand crack (crux second pitch) is a humbling experience... It is unbelievable Derek Hersey soloed this... I died three times before I reached the saving jug...

What a great morning... WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 26, 2002

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Comments: Ernie, isn't this a classy climb? just reading your account made me want to go do it again...

Question on the rappel, last time I did the Maiden (2 months ago tops) and all the previous times the rappel was set on slings that were threaded behind a rock with a variety of rap rings on them. Where the hangers you are talking about new?

Does anyone know if the route has been upgraded with new rappel anchors?

Just curious, WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Better than Love (5.5)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 20, 2002

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Comments: Lead this today and I have to say, it is NOT better than Love.

From the point where the routes separate, follow the strata left towards the arete to a point where the arete has a large pointed horn (separated from the arete by a one foot crack). This is the crux.

Turn the horn towards the North and climb the arete straight up from this point. The rock near the horn is brittle, but take a large piece (#3 Camalot).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : South Sneak (5.2)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 19, 2002

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Comments: George is very right on this one.

It is way harder and exposed than Dodge Block. In addition to the crux when one bypasses the overhang, there is a 50 ft section right after that is sustained, very polished and not very featured. We soloed this route and frankly found very little in the ways of protection. There are some old pins and a couple of old bolts for a belay but not much more than this.

I would give this route and S rating.

It is way cool though.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Dodge Block (5.0)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 19, 2002

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Comments: Picking the correct spot for the traverse to "dodge" the block is the crux of this climb. If you traverse at the level of the tree, as described above, the traverse will be almost trivial. If you continue up towards the block and traverse just below it, the traverse will become considerably spicier (if you are soloing that is)

There are at least two alternatives once you cross the gully. The first one is the original route, it is the easiest one too. It climbs a weakness on the wall that looks... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock : North Face (5.2)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 18, 2002

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Comments: There is an easier 4th class downclimb off of Hillbilly.

Downclimb the East face on its North side from the summit for about 100 ft. As you reach a large flake/ledge, a break to the right (North) allows passage down.

Downclimb the step and follow the ramp downward (East) for some 10 licheny ft. past a small tree. From there, move into the next parallel ramp and continue down some 10 feet until you can step down onto a large, fallen tree. Follow the tree to the ground.

This is easy climbing ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : White Whale (5.7)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 14, 2002

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Comments: I felt this was a really nice and comfortable 5.7.

Not necesarily comparable to other Lumpy Ridge 5.7. Perhaps it was the relatively low angle or the readily available amount of pro.

Great fun climb.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Schmoe's Nose : North Nostril (5.6)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 14, 2002

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Comments: If this route was closer to the trails it would be a major attraction. As it is today, it seats in a part of the mountain that most Flatiron hikers and climber are unlikely to visit... ever...

The route is way cool, steeper than most Flatirons, requiring a cool layback and some overhang cranking. Unfortunately lack of traffic has allowed a healthy crop of lichen to mature since the 1960's it's my guess...

Worth a visit if you're ever in that hood...

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : Northeast Face (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 14, 2002

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Comments: Tony is right that the placements are sparse.

The rock is pretty solid, and though licheny in spots it felt fairly secure for the most part. The climbing overall is much easier than the 5.5/5.6 rating. There are two places where this level of difficulty is encountered, one was a 30ft bulge nearing the start of the left-leaning arete (not the top arete). I was glad to have a rope there since the hanholds had somehow disolved to nothing....

Can't tell you what pitch it is since we simulclimbed... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 10, 2002

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Comments: Actually, I asked Cole Stanley whether his accident had accured at the Death Flake mentioned as nauseum on this page.

His accident occured lower on the wall, so we DO STILL need to be careful wich the said death flake...

WT


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Nose (5.10b)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 10, 2002

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Comments: Just a couple of comments on this route.

Pitches 3 and 5 (crux 5.10 if you split the 4th pitch in two) and 7 (called 4th class in Rossiter topo, more like 5.4) have some serious run outs.

On pitch 6 (5 according to Rossiter) after you turn the bulge, you start climbing the left crack and eventually traverse to the right crack when the left one petters out (8+). If you traverse too early you will be faced with a 5.9 OW that narrows to thin fingers...

We did the rappel descent and had no prob... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 7, 2002

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Comments: Seems to me like you're spraying none the less.

Looks like the AC choice is more to shelter you from the flames occasioned by the spraying.

But I could be wrong...

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 28, 2002

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Comments: Goatboy, I agree with you on the crux thing.

I felt the traverse was scarier and thought it to be the crux (I followed this pitch). The roof at the end of the second pitch felt more technical but really safe since the gear is bomber and at face level as you set up to crank the roof.(I lead this pitch)

The funny thing is: I climbed this with George and he felt exactly the opposite... He lead the first and followed the second...

Great route....

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 23, 2002

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Comments: Dear Coward, it seems you almost got the point...

If you had stayed on route, life would have been a lot easier. I you had climbed as two teams, life would have been a lot easier too, if you had carried your book on a ten pitch route... Now that's an idea...

As far as the exposure and run outs go, the Flatirons are especially notorious for that. There a lots of bolted not so exposed climbs in other parts of Boulder, but I'd say that the Regular on the First is standard fare for the Flatiron's,... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 21, 2002

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Comments: Just to clarify Bill's description: this is indeed the second ridge on your right as you are hiking West up skunk canyon.

Hillbilly rock being the first ridge. However, Hillbilly rock sits way high North of the canyon and thus does not reach the bottom of it.

Because of this, the Stairway ridge will be the first one on your right that you will see reaching almost the bottom of the canyon.




Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatironette : East Face and South Ridge (5.4)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 9, 2002

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Comments: George, I just realized you gave this one (1) star? I thought it was horrible. I think 1911 Gully was way better and we gave that one a Bomb... What's up with that?

I'd go back to 1911. I'll never go back to this...

Your turning soft on me here...

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatironette : East Face and South Ridge (5.4)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 9, 2002

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Comments: HMMMM grubby, yes, very much so.

Nope, not recommended. Only for those cursed with having to complete all the climbs on the Roach book... Or those who climb it thinking it is the Fourth Flatiron... I think Bill did this by accident last week...

Would be a major mind trip to solo...


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : East Face/4th Pinnacle (5.5 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 22, 2002

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Comments: George is right, you can lead the route in one pitch with a 50m rope, but your second will be required to simulclimb some 30 feet to allow you to reach the belay spot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 22, 2002

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Comments: I've placed a #3 Camalot at the exit of the crack as backup to the fixed Bong. But you can also place a bomber small piece somewhere in the middle of the traverse (orange or red Alien / #1 Camalot?) on a small crack above the large traverse crack.

I felt the crux is the exit of the roof at the end of the traverse, not the traverse itself. Place a LONG runner on the piece BEFORE you start the traverse or rope drag will kill you on the thin 8+ corner above the traverse....

Have fun, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch : East Face/Back Porch (5.6)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 15, 2002

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Comments: I have to agree with Mike, it is an O.K. route but have often wondered why it was included by Gerry Roach as part of the Top Ten Flatiron routes. I found the rock to be brittle in places (at the crux) and the line a bit convoluted (snaking between trees at crux and belay). There are many other Classics (not top ten) in his book that I believe are head and shoulders above this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 11, 2002

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Comments: I agree with George, I remember traversing almost immediately after the end of the dihedral. There is some kind of strata making the traverse easier. I do not remember this being at all run out. The next pitch (joined with Yellow Spur) now that's run out!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Warren Teissier When: Mar 14, 2002

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Comments: I have to agree with Leo, the second pitch is cool, but the so called crack is shallow and not very consistent. [Definitely] a tricky lead for the level....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Butterfly (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Mar 13, 2002

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Comments: I started the route North (Lower) than Fandango but not low enough I guess.

I started directly below the belay tree (exactly 200 feet from it). I made it up a slab (old piton with a couple of bail slings) past some flakes/roofs and to a large roof I deemed to be the crux.

Looking at the pictures now I realize I skirted the diamond shaped slab on the left. I joined the route at the top of the diamond, just before the 5.6 crux...

Neither Rossiter nor Roach have a route on the variation I did.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : East Face/Hand (5.4)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jan 22, 2002

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Comments: Yep, when we did this climb (Jan. 15th) the thermometer in the car as I parked at NCAR read 17 degrees.... Thus the lack of a smile in the picture below. Fun route though....


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