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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2008
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Point Rank: # 429
Total Points: 1,399
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 309 | Routes 76 | Areas 29 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 94 | Posts | Stars 86 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Free for All (5.6)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 20, 2003

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Comments: Ryan, I agree, the downclimb is indeed scary, hard to sort out the first time and WAY exposed

An alternative to rappelling is to "downlead" the route the "weaker" climber goes first belayed from above and places gear frequently as he down climbs

Then, once on the ground, the "weaker" climber belays the person at the top. That person then downclimbs and cleans the pieces... That's how I did it my first time up there

Cheers, WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 19, 2003

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Comments: Let's see, I followed Touch and Go yesterday and then lead the 5.9 crux of Anthill Direct...

The Touch and Go crux felt more insecure and harder (while following!) than the Anthill direct 5.9 on lead... Either one ratting needs to come down or the other needs to go up.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 19, 2003

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Comments: We did this route with the Touch and Go start on 9/18/03. Couple of comments:

First, what a great route... Kor Grade all the way...

The route in general felt "stout", old time ratings, if you will. The exposure on the traverse and the next pitch (3 and 4 as described) is cool and/or unnerving depending on your mental state. Pitch 4 looked quite harder than the advertised 5.5 but it all works out, balancy though, not your "learn to lead" 5.5

These two pitches could turn into a real bad time i... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Toll : North Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 15, 2003

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Comments: We just climbed this route last [Saturday]. A couple of pointers:

Once you reach the saddle in front of the north face look at the West side, we followed a solid ramp that climbed up the West side for some 30ft. and roped up at the base of a small short dihedral. We followed it up and then traversed left and later right on great face holds with a 60m rope I was able to reach a comfy ledge and set a belay at the base of a blocky dihedral.

Another pitch up the dihedral got us to the big ledge wh... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 4, 2003

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Comments: Myke and I did this climb yesterday.

Very cool climb.

We started at 5:30am from the Lawn Lake TH. We reached Ypsilon Lake in 1.5hrs. We went around (clockwise) the lake and climbed the grassy gully north of the lake directly up the toe of the ridge.

We passed the first Ace on the left via comfortable ledges and were greeted by phenomenal exposure on the downclimb to the second Ace.

We roped up, changed shoes and simulclimbed over the second Ace (starting on its left side) and third Ace. When... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 24, 2003

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Comments: I consider this a really fun scramble. Perfect if you like moving fast and un-encumbered on easy rock that just won't end.

To Tony's point, the scramble is interrupted a bit too often by ledges.

My all time favorite climb of this genre is Angel's Way (see description). Located a couple more ridges to the West it is as long as Stairway, but does not have the ledge interruptions. In addition, it provides more variety of climbing: Face, crack and even liebacks at a very soloable grade for us me... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Dihedral (5.7)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 14, 2003

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Comments: Interesting that this climb was put in the database as a 5.7. If you look it up in the Rossiter book he has the left variation (this description) going left of the flake at 5.9-. If you look at the topo it is shown as 5.7.

This is a common issue in the Rossiter guide, the descriptions are rated higher than the topos. But which one is right then?

I lead it a couple of weeks ago and it is not 5.7. It felt 5.9ish to me. Grant it the tough part is not long but still... Maybe a really hard 5.8? Ce... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 9, 2003

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Comments: We did Dream Weaver on 6/8/03.

We started fairly early and found hard packed snow most of the way.

There is a small rock step at the beginning of the lower section and a 30 ft rock step before the notch where the Flying Buttress ends. No chimney yet, although a deep hole on the upper step signalled that it will be appearing soon.

The upper section also had two rock steps. At the beginning and at the end of the "ribbon". They were both small.

There was a little ice on the rock steps but noth... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : West Face (5.8 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 5, 2003

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Comments: Guy, the closure for the Matron and the Amphitheater were lifted a couple of weeks ago cause no birds were seen nesting on them

To celebrate this, yesterday morning a group of early morning speed climbers did 19 ascents on the Matron on its four faces before 10am. Happy times.

I think the Open Space and Mountain Parks folks gain a HUGE amount of climber community "goodwill" by re-opening areas ahead of time when they realize that birds are not nesting in them.

Kudos to the rangers.

BTW, the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : West Face (5.8 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 4, 2003

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Comments: Did this route today and it is indeed stellar.

In its current state, with two hanger-less rusty stems it is a trully a dangerous mind trip to lead.

I hope that with the new Flatiron's fixed hardware commitee those two relics of bolt wars gone-by can be replaced by two modern bolts. Then the route can be enjoyed in safety as the classic it is.

The second pitch is also stellar although at a lesser grade. Modern pro allows you to bypass all of the old pitons in this pitch, some of which are p... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : The Flying Dutchman (5.4 WI2-3)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 2, 2003

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Comments: We climbed the Flying Dutchman on 6/01/03.

The snow conditions were pretty good although a bit soft and melting fast!

Crux conditions: we found a mixture of rock and ice interspersed with a samll water fall.

We climbed the rock/ice section on the left since the pure ice alternative was hollow and seemed ready to come down. All in all, a great route with awesome position.

We got blasted by a weird, winter like snow storm, as we reached the Loft and proceeded to descend in poor visibility ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango (5.5)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: William, the route follows the line marked on the photograph. I do not recall any slick gullies.

It seems you went too far left before reaching the Evergreen. From the small tree belay at the top of pitch one I remember heading straight up for the large evergreen.

From there you should follow the overhanging dihedral to the left until you can climb it at any of the many weaknesses (about 40ft from the tree?) and head up for the huge dihedral above you.

I recall the route being fairly well pr... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 14, 2003

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Comments: Let's see, we just climbed this on 4/12/03.

What a surreal route. A must do if in the area.

The third pitch Off-Width is definitely size-dependent: Tall / slender people will fare better than chubbier / shorter ones. It is burly for sure, but protects very well with large cams and a sling around a chockstone.

The last pitch felt insecure. The chopped holds have turned into gritty sloppers. The reaches ae loooong and the pins looked just O.K. Felt like 5.9 to us.

Otto was a wild man, he clim... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Warren Teissier When: Mar 10, 2003

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Comments: We did this climb yesterday (Bill Wright lead it of course). It is indeed burly and the pro is less than inspiring although the Aliens jammed in the thin shallow crack left and below the roof slot did hold....

Neither Bill nor I did any jamming to clear the roof, except for jamming our butts into the slot while exiting it. We couldn't find where we could have jammed, Lord knows we looked! but the search for jams lead us to find some hidden hold that proved to be the key to the sequence.

Fun r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Mar 5, 2003

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Comments: Nate, although I agree that the top can and is done unroped by many, I wanted to throw in a couple of disclaimers:

The North Arete is rated 5.4 not 5.2. Granted, it is not all 5.4 but I can think of at least three sections of friction/face 5.4. All of which would have disastrous consequences if you slip...

Also, it is a lot easier to solo the arete once you have climbed it a couple of times before. For my money, it would be a bit balsy to solo it the first time you climb this rock, particular... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fum : East Face South Side (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Feb 5, 2003

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Comments: Richard, the route appears in Roach's Flatiron Classics with a 1987 Copyright. So perhaps you did it sooner than stated...

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Tangen Towers : In Focus (5.10)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jan 22, 2003

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Comments: Alright, so it's been a week since George and I posted a couple of new routes on this obscure piece of rock in the Flatirons.

Since it seems that the flaming has subsided, I figured I'd crawl out of the asbestos suit and philosophize for a couple of seconds:

The posting of this route, that I dared rate 3 stars, attracted the attention of:

- Four different Anonymous Cowards some attacking the route, others attacking the previous AC, and some of them explaining to me what to expect from postin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Tangen Towers : In Focus (5.10)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jan 15, 2003

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Comments: AC, felt like three stars to me.

That's all that matters.

When you get the balls to put your name on your posts and contribute info to the site then I will be more inclined to have a discussion with you.

In the meantime your opinion is irrelevant...

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/Onoclea (5.3)
By: Warren Teissier When: Dec 17, 2002

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Comments: I climbed this route today. Really nice scramble.

We were soloing it and I felt that the crux was rude to solo: the exposure is severe and you need to friction your way up a steep slab with not so good holds (at least I couldn't find them today).

After a serious case of the "chicken shits" a rope was made available to me and instantly the difficulties subsided... Funny how that works.

Anyway, great rock, great setting.

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Royal Arch : West Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Dec 16, 2002

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Comments: I did this route last Saturday and to George's point:

I found it was impossible to protect the crux moves. Your only hope for protection is to have your belayer come up to the boulder from which you start the climb and hope that if you come off, he will be able to hold you before you deck on the talus below the large boulder from which you started.

That being said, there are two positive footholds and a couple of nice handholds (not huge but good) that make the moves rather secure. Once you m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Front Porch : Tiptoe Slab (5.3 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Dec 11, 2002

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Comments: Just to throw in my two cents:

What a great slab climb this is...

If you chose not to use the bolts (probably wise), there is very little available in the way of protection. I did not see a great deal available until you reach the supposed belay areas (we soloed it so it was hard to sort out where the belays would be). The leader should regard this climb as a solo adventure for practical purposes...

WT


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : South Ridge (5.0)
By: Warren Teissier When: Dec 9, 2002

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Comments: Guy, I did this route today and really enjoyed it...

I was soloing so I did not have the hassle of the ropedrag. I did not find the rock to be too bad. I passed both headwalls on the right (seemed easier although Roach claims left is easier). All in all I though it was a fun scramble although not stellar.

Also I downclimbed the gully between the Oveture and Freishutz to reach the base. This was a bad choice, I think your approach description is a better choice.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Keel
By: Warren Teissier When: Nov 22, 2002

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Comments: After completing the Keel, if you don't have a dog, a natural continuation would be to climb one of the Wings, I climbed the southern portion of the Northern wing. From the top, hike to the saddle South of the summit of Bear mountain to find the Shadow Canyon trail and then to the summit return to your car via the Fern Canyon trail or Shadow Canyon depending on where you started your outing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 9, 2002

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Comments: I finally got around to climbing the first three pitches of this route. What an awesome climb it is indeed.

After the climb I came back home and thumbed through Pat Ament's "High Over Boulder" to see what he had to say about the climb.

To my surprise on page 11, there is a picture of Kor (FA) just after completing the traverse. Upon closer inspection I noticed he has NO gear in place through the whole traverse! His first visible piece is on the 5.5 crack that marks the end of it.

Now, those ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : West Door (5.8)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 6, 2002

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Comments: I finally got to do West Door yesterday.

I agree with George that it is solid 5.8. To my amazement Gerry Roach calls it 5.6 in his celebrated Flatiron's Classics!... major sand bag.

Not to belabor a point, besides it being stiff, protection is scant (small stopper placement in initial crack, too low to stop you from decking) until you breach the overhang at which point you don't really need it...

Once on the ramp head left in it and scramble up to the summit on easy rock.


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