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Walt Wehner


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 17, 2005
Contact Walt Wehner


Point Rank: # 1,424
Total Points: 433
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Walt Wehner been climbing?










Contributions


All 102 | Routes 41 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts | Stars 42 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Pi (5.12b)
By: Walt Wehner When: Apr 26, 2002

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Comments: Heh. Solid pi, eh? I'm sure there are some other nerds that'll get the joke.

Seriously, though. It's only 11d.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Profits of Rage (5.12)
By: Walt Wehner When: Dec 7, 2001

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Comments: Dan -

You still living in the Springs? Is Lee Brinckerhoff still down there too? If you see him, have him drop me a line, eh? wehnerw@sobek.colorado.edu

-Walt


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Nov 24, 2001

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Comments: A few months later - clearly I was wrong. The S. Platte part of the site is more and more useful everyday. I guess I didn't realize is that what has happened here is that the guidebook has become a much more dynamic entity. If it sucks for a while, that's ok, because each new submission draws more attention and more input. I'm a little worried that that Komarnitsky fellow is trying to take over the world one climbing website at a time, but I'm psyched about this new resource.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Hot Dog (5.11b)
By: Walt Wehner When: Nov 24, 2001

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Comments: Ahh. More arguments about grades. My pal Luke and I just did this one, and I'm in agreement with the 11b as it stands. In fact, I'm not sure there's a single 5.11 move on the route - but it's pretty sustained for a ways. Note that I'm one of those young, sassy idiots who sandbags for fun, and that I'm a nice 6 feet tall, which is good for the somewhat reachy traverse. YMMV.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House
By: Walt Wehner When: Nov 24, 2001

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Comments: This photo is a bit misleading. There are _2_ routes on the far left side that share anchors, and are around 5.10/5.10+ respectively. THEN there's a 5.11 that goes up a slab to the _right_ side of the crack that the 10+ climbs, and then shoots off right through the overhang to an independent anchor. Finally, (this is the left side only) there's the massively manufactured route that goes out right on 2 drilled jugs to a low anchor. The #2 shown in the photo is really a sort of amalgam of bo... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Rocket Fuel (5.11b)
By: Walt Wehner When: Nov 16, 2001

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Comments: It's worth mentioning that at least as of a few years ago, this was a safe, fun lead. There are pins all over the face, and as long as you trust 30 year old iron, you'll be stoked.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Security (5.11)
By: Walt Wehner When: Nov 16, 2001

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Comments: I agree with the comment about the rating. Did this a while ago and thought it was pretty desperate for 5.10. Felt like mid-5.11 (albeit only for a move or two) to me.

-Walt


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Radometer in the Red Zone (5.11b)
By: Walt Wehner When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: Alan - you could very well be right. I've got a long wingspan and thus tend to sandbag on reachy vertical routes. Definitely a sustained series of very small holds.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Jolt Cola (5.12-)
By: Walt Wehner When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: Yeah, you can keep going through the roof. I was way too pumped to even consider it by the time I got to the anchors. Supposedly (according to Rossiter) you can climb to the right below the third bolt and avoid the crux. I haven't tried it that way, though. I'd say it's harder than a number of the 12b or c routes at Clear Creek, so an accurate grade might be closer to 12b. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it, unless someone thinks of a better excuse for the butt-kicking I got on this route. ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Independence Wall : Right To Be Wrong (5.11c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Oct 26, 2001

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Comments: One of 5 unbelieveably bad routes that are up the hill and left of the main section of the Anarchy Wall. This route is the furthest to the right and is distinguished by lichen, bushes, loose rock, and breaking holds. The bolts appear to be safe, but the route gets an "s" for the chance of hitting your belayer with one of many big hunks of rotten rock that are waiting to come down. The climb mimics the approach gully, which is a trough of scree and small boulders. Avoid this route at all costs.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Shelf's Worst Route (5.11d)
By: Walt Wehner When: Oct 18, 2001

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Comments: Having climbed this a number of years ago, I can tell you where the name came from. The route was (years ago, anyway) one of the worst choss piles at Shelf. And that's saying something. I remember a terrifying onsight attempt cut short by several holds breaking simultaneously, back in the day. I have no doubt that it's cleaned up significantly since then, though, and the route trends right enough that the belayer generally isn't in too much danger. Bolts are solid, too. So have at it!


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Liquid Acrobat (5.12a R)
By: Walt Wehner When: Sep 20, 2001

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Comments: It's actually semi-safe to lead if you A) get a spot until you place a nut at ~20 feet, and B) can place a #3 or #4 RP above your head from a pretty poor stance. I led it once, I wouldn't do it again. In Boulder Canyon, it'd be an 8-bolt 12c.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bonehead (5.10c/d)
By: Walt Wehner When: Sep 10, 2001

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Comments: One star?!? One star?!?! This is a travesty of a miscarriage of justice! Mottinger and Komarnitsky will pay for this grievous transgression!

Anyway, uh, I think it should get 2 stars. Yeah, I really like this route. Big jugs and positive edges everywhere. Superbueno.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Sep 4, 2001

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Comments: This is a stellar route, but I'll eat my shorts if it's 13a. My best guess would be that it'd rate 12b or maybe b/c at an older area like Shelf. I haven't really climbed in 2 years, and I came within a hang of flashing it this weekend, meaning that it can't possibly be that hard ('cause I ain't that good!)

One of my favorite routes a Clear Creek! 10 stars on a 3 star scale sounds about right!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mrs. Hen Places a Peck (5.12a)
By: Walt Wehner When: Aug 16, 2001

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Comments: If you're looking for your first 5.12 redpoint, this is definitely the route for it. It's only got maybe 2 moves of difficult climbing (extend the the draw on that last bolt if you have trouble clipping it) and would probably rate about 11b or c at old-school areas like Shelf. Probably my favorite climb at Table.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I'm not sure that South Platte stuff should really be part of this site, since I don't think anyone who contributes has climbed there much. I lived in the Springs for several years and climbed in the Platte a lot, but I would hesitate to try to make any kind of online guide for it. I think the site should stick to areas that it can do a really good job with - like Boulder Canyon, and leave larger/farther areas until we can put together something that does the area justice.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: My point was only that if you do something, you should do it right. There are thousands of routes in the South Platte, and hundreds of crags. Putting mediocre descriptions of a few random climbs, with lousy directions online is a waste of time for both the reader and the author. If you have a guide for Turkey Rocks, with, say, 90 routes and some pictures, thats good. If you have a couple random descriptions and nothing else, thats bad.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: It's worth pointing out, though, that the stated purpose of the site is "We want to make it beyond obvious exactly how to arrive at a route, and where the route actually is." I believe the idea was originally to improve Rossiter's guide with some photos and solid descriptions. Adding stories and comments about routes is also useful, but seems inconsistent with the original spirit of the site.