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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Jolt Cola (5.12-)
By: Walt Wehner When: Nov 5, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, you can keep going through the roof. I was way too pumped to even consider it by the time I got to the anchors. Supposedly (according to Rossiter) you can climb to the right below the third bolt and avoid the crux. I haven't tried it that way, though. I'd say it's harder than a number of the 12b or c routes at Clear Creek, so an accurate grade might be closer to 12b. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it, unless someone thinks of a better excuse for the butt-kicking I got on this route. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Independence Wall : Right To Be Wrong (5.11c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Oct 26, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of 5 unbelieveably bad routes that are up the hill and left of the main section of the Anarchy wall. This route is the furthest to the right, and is distinguished by lichen, bushes, loose rock, and breaking holds. The bolts appear to be safe, but the route gets an "s" for the chance of hitting your belayer with one of many big hunks of rotten rock that are waiting to come down. The climb mimics the approach gully, which is a trough of scree and small boulders. Avoid this route at all costs.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Shelf's Worst Route (5.11d)
By: Walt Wehner When: Oct 18, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having climbed this a number of years ago, I can tell you where the name came from. The route was (years ago, anyway) one of the worst choss piles at Shelf. And that's saying something. I remember a terrifying onsight attempt cut short by several holds breaking simultaneously, back in the day. I have no doubt that it's cleaned up significantly since then, though, and the route trends right enough that the belayer generally isn't in too much danger. Bolts are solid, too. So have at it!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Liquid Acrobat (5.12a R)
By: Walt Wehner When: Sep 20, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's actually semi-safe to lead if you A) get a spot until you place a nut at ~20 feet, and B) can place a #3 or #4 RP above your head from a pretty poor stance. I led it once, I wouldn't do it again. In Boulder Canyon, it'd be an 8-bolt 12c.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bonehead (5.10c/d)
By: Walt Wehner When: Sep 10, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: One star?!? One star?!?! This is a travesty of a miscarriage of justice! Mottinger and Komarnitsky will pay for this grievous transgression!
Anyway, uh, I think it should get 2 stars. Yeah, I really like this route. Big jugs and positive edges everywhere. Superbueno.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Sep 4, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a stellar route, but I'll eat my shorts if it's 13a. My best guess would be that it'd rate 12b or maybe b/c at an older area like Shelf. I haven't really climbed in 2 years, and I came within a hang of flashing it this weekend, meaning that it can't possibly be that hard ('cause I ain't that good!)
One of my favorite routes a Clear Creek! 10 stars on a 3 star scale sounds about right!
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mrs. Hen Places a Peck (5.12a)
By: Walt Wehner When: Aug 16, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're looking for your first 5.12 redpoint, this is definitely the route for it. It's only got maybe 2 moves of difficult climbing (extend the the draw on that last bolt if you have trouble clipping it) and would probably rate about 11b or c at old-school areas like Shelf. Probably my favorite climb at Table.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quivering Quill (5.10c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Jan 1, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure that South Platte stuff should really be part of this site, since I don't think anyone who contributes has climbed there much. I lived in the Springs for several years and climbed in the Platte a lot, but I would hesitate to try to make any kind of online guide for it. I think the site should stick to areas that it can do a really good job with - like Boulder Canyon, and leave larger/farther areas until we can put together something that does the area justice.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quivering Quill (5.10c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Jan 1, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: My point was only that if you do something, you should do it right. There are thousands of routes in the South Platte, and hundreds of crags. Putting mediocre descriptions of a few random climbs, with lousy directions online is a waste of time for both the reader and the author. If you have a guide for Turkey Rocks, with, say, 90 routes and some pictures, thats good. If you have a couple random descriptions and nothing else, thats bad.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quivering Quill (5.10c)
By: Walt Wehner When: Jan 1, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's worth pointing out, though, that the stated purpose of the site is "We want to make it beyond obvious exactly how to arrive at a route, and where the route actually is." I believe the idea was originally to improve Rossiter's guide with some photos and solid descriptions. Adding stories and comments about routes is also useful, but seems inconsistent with the original spirit of the site.
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