Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Apr 12, 2006
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Wally


Point Rank: # 8,398
Total Points: 31
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Wally been climbing?










Contributions


All 308 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 260 | Stars 9 | Ratings 8
Page 1 of 13.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Wally When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Rainbow Highway can be rapped with a single 70 meter rope. The last rap is best done angling to the rappeller's left into a gully. Rapping straight down on the last rap doesn't get you to the ground.

If you bring two ropes on your climb, I would still rap the line with a single 70 meter rope. Cleaner and shorter pulls with no knot to deal with.

All rap anchors are chains.

Wally


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk
By: Wally When: Jul 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Is there a reliable water source for camping near the base of the Hulk in August?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Cauldrons : Eye of the Newt (5.10)
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, and solid beta above.

I agree with Alison - doing the route in three pitches makes sense, since there is a nice and big ledge 50 feet up or so. And yes, two ropes needed to descend from the first set of anchors. The first set of anchors is high up, about 35 meters above the big ledge 50 feet off the deck.

Regarding the rack, I morphed between Drewford's three #3s and Alexander's one #3 recommendation.

My suggested rack - two sets of cams, from green Aliens to #3... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Kachina Tower South (5.8 C0)
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Best rope system for this route is a single 70 meter rope. A single 60 meter rope may be sufficient, not sure.

Ian's beta I have a few disagreements with. The first and third pitches are protectable. The third pitch is tough to protect the opening moves for the leader, but a couple of small cams protect the second. Also, if you don't clip the last piton on the final pitch and you blow the tricky move past that, you would fall a long way, possibly decking on the ledge below. Clip the last piton!... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Photo
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This photo is mis-labeled. The south tower is on the left, the north tower is on the right. The photo was taken in mid to late afternoon - with the sun in the southwestern sky.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Kachina Tower South (5.8 C0) : Photo
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This photo, taken from the fence at the campsite at the end of the road, shows the traverse into the canyon. This wasn't clear to me prior to doing the traverse. Important point here is that if you are at the campsite at the end of the road, enjoying that great view of the Kachina Spires, the traverse is in sight, as shown in this photo. To get to the start of the traverse, hike to almost the end of the point, then drop down and look ledges that traverse back away from the point.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Rim Rappel appoach mileages. Reset odometer at the junction of 191 and 313:

Lone Mesa Campground signed turnoff on right (go straight) - 8.1 miles.
Horse Theif Campground signed turnoff, go right (Mineral Point Road) - 11.4 miles.
Junction, mining road on left, go right - 14.0 miles.
Turnoff on right, go straight on better road - 15.1 miles.
Mining road on left, go straight - 15.8 miles.
Take the rough road on the left, just before the end of the bluff on the right - 18.2 miles.
Go right at the... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihe... (5.10+) : Photo
By: Wally When: Mar 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Jordan - there are two massive dihedrals in this photo. Which dihedral, the right or the left, is the route?


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Psychic Turbulance (5.11b)
By: Wally When: Feb 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Has anyone done this route in recent years? I had the fortune to get this really tough line many years ago. I spoke with the stud climbing ranger a couple of years ago - he said Psychic Turbulence needed some gardening work, and hadn't been climbed in years.

True?


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Wally When: Jul 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: As a first time visitor last weekend from Colorado, good directions to the Ten Sleep free camping area were hard to find, approaching from the east. Here you go:

Powder River Pass is mile marker 55 on highway 16.
Willow Park Campground is mile marker 45 on highway 16.
Deer Haven Lodge is mile marker 44 on highway 16.

The old road, gateway to good and free Ten Sleep camping, is near mile marker 42 on highway 16. The old road is not signed and difficult to spot at night. A good landmark is the o... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Hot Fun Sunday (5.11)
By: Wally When: May 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Four pieces in 70 feet at Indian Creek - on an insecure 5.11. Come on Tony. Perhaps you were bored back the day you put this route up and looking to stir the pot. Climb on my friend.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Steep
By: Wally When: May 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: For the first time visitor, this place was tough to find. To get to The Steep, first drive to Summerhaven, and then continue on the road past Summerhaven (as noted above, generally in a southern direction) 1.0 miles to the end of the road, noted as Marshall Gulch. The Aspen trail trail begins at Marshall Gulch.

As noted above, the climbers trail is pretty obvious, on the left, just after the Aspen trail makes a sharp right turn. Perhaps 15 minutes of hiking on the Aspen trail, and then an addit... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: Wally When: Feb 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure if this is crucial. But sure, always good to score the no hands rest!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sister of Pain (5.11c)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A great line. Pretty darn sustained.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11c)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great line!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This line faces north - great to do on a hot day. The gear beta here is good. No longer need to bring gear for the belay, as there are two bolts on the summit and also an anchor at the top of the route.

Great line!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Neighbor Of Putterman : After the Rain (5.10)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This one has sandbag written all over it. First pitch is pretty tricky, more like 5.9.

Second pitch is a great pitch! Very memorable. Dan - you must have big mitts - this pitch steps up harder than 5.8 much earlier than suggested.

I also struggle with the rack beta on this one. Both Sergio and Alison recommend 3 to 4 #3.5 camalots. Pretty unique size - not too many folks out there have that many number 3.5s. The most prevalant cam size is #3 camalots. My gear beta for this one:

Si... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Walden's Room (5.10c)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: As usual, the Andy Laakmann beta is right on - thanks Andy!

Sam and Josh - thanks for the updated hardware!

Cool route! Great summit. Put this one on your list!

Pitch four - both crux sections are hard, memorable. One bit of disagreement is the suggestion to aid the bolt ladder - very freeable and reasonable at the grade - if you slip - the bolt is right there. Maybe this section has cleaned up over time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Easton's Corner (5.11)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Nice line - would be a tough lead - very bouldery and hard to protect start. Convenient top rope after Walden's Room.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Echo Pinnacle : Free Window Route (5.10+)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Beta here is solid. We did pitch 2 and pitch 3 as one - not much of a ledge if you break this up as two pitches, although the weight of two ropes at the top of this long pitch was certainly evident. An incredible pitch - quite strenuous, opening moves, finishing moves, pretty much the whole pitch is in your face. A few rests after you punch through the hands to tight hands start. If you love this pitch - somewhat reminiscent of Long Dong Wall (Colorado National Monument) and Honeymoon Chimney.

... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Driving beta is mostly good here. Mile marker signs are now numbered differently, turnoff is between mile marker 141 and 142. We had a 4-runner - was glad we had the four wheel drive. Not sure if I would want to try to get in here with a subaru (or a Paseo . . .).

Great climbing weekend destination.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Black Sun (5.10b)
By: Wally When: Feb 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Black Sun is a great route - three very memorable pitches once you break free from Kor Ingalls. Climbed it on a cold Saturday two days ago. Good weather for the route - wouldn't want to do that offwidth chimney grunt in 80 degree sun.

Beta here is mostly good. The last pitch is not 5.8, more like 5.9. Calling the crux pitch 9+ is sandbag. The gear beta here is good. On the slot, both an old style #4 camalot (bigger than the current version) and a #5 Camalot are useful. So yes, a @PO... more >>


Location: CO : Calling all Colorado Ice Cl...
By: Wally When: Nov 22, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: S. Price and Tony T. - I am going to side with Laura on this one, hands down. There is way more demand than supply of ice in Colorado. A few years ago a buddy and I showed up at Alexander's at first light, and we were the fourth party vying for that route. The Skylight area on a popular weekend is pretty darn busy. Ouray it seems you can always find WI4 and WI5 leads, but still it can get pretty crazy busy. Ames on the weekend is a total crap shoot - even if you set the alarm for 3 am.

Contrast... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Wally When: Sep 2, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Mike C. is totally spot on. The second pitch is very serious for the leader - with bad fall potential (suspect RPs with a bad landing if they blow). A ballsy lead. If the second blows the crux, no big deal - a top roped swing to the left with nothing to hit - I've had two seconds take this fall - they were able to swing back into the start and try again. The suggestion to solo or backclean the pitch doesn't make any sense (i.e. is crazy) to me.

Wally


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : California Dreaming (5.11b)
By: Wally When: Aug 25, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great line. The description here is accurate. We approached from the first pitch anchors of One Way Sunset.


Page 1 of 13.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>