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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Othello (5.10-) : Photo
By: Wade Griffith When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wonder if they have told their dads yet.
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Location: CO : John Bachar Passes Away
By: Wade Griffith When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bachar was an amazing inspirational figure to me and his loss is stunning, I pass my regrets on to those he left behind. He died doing something he was passionate about and feel that is something to find some consolation in. His spirit will never be forgotten.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cupcake (5.10 V0+)
By: Wade Griffith When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First time I met Scarpelli was at the base of the Cupcake. I was strollin' through and looked up at the route, asked Bob what the thing was rated. He casually said 5.8. Also remember spotting a friend with one leg one day as he bouldered it. I was more worried about getting clubbed by his prosthetic than he was climbing it I believe.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Mainstreet (5.10a)
By: Wade Griffith When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, I actually just pulled the 1/4"er and redrilled the hole to accomodate a 3/8th inch. I think that the bolt is unecessary but if people are gonna clip it, might as well be bomber.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Wade Griffith When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have quite often face climbed out left at the end of this one to avoid doing the offwidth finish. Think that is what the"Old Fart" is talkin bout.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : John's Tower : Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Dr... (5.11)
By: Wade Griffith When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked the route name better when I was thinkin bout the band. Bummer, Iron Maiden used to rock! I remember scopin those roof routes a while back and thinking they looked cool. Glad it finally has been done.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Round-Up (5.11a)
By: Wade Griffith When: Apr 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably more like a 10b my partner and I thought. Especially after having just done Tequila Sunrise which is 10d. Tequila Sunrise is much harder.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Solar Collector
By: Wade Griffith When: Dec 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, Bob and I were both there when we put up the routes. It is an easy crag to miss while walking along the trail. The only advice I have is while walking the Turtle Rock trail, if you were coming from Jurrassic Park, keep on walking past Land of the Rising Moon. You'll pass a beaver dam on your left. Keep watching the woods on your left (think that is west) till the crag comes into sight approximately 300 ft from the trail. Dont think you should need a GPS.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Wade Griffith When: May 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought the first pitch was definitely 5.9, good edges outside of the crack. I agree with the traditional ratings, just need to be a solid 5.10 OW leader. The crux that I fell on was the undercling after the OW on the second pitch due to the pump factor. Compared to Vedauwoo ratings it is on. Don't think rebolting would be appropriate on this one since cams are so bomber, keep the adventure!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Wade Griffith When: Apr 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dont bring a hammer. Goes clean with minimal effort and is not any more sketchy. Did not find the tri-cams to be particularly useful. The dream rack is 2 blue, 2 green, 3 yellow, (at least) 4 red, 2 of the new gold sizes (if you can get them), and 2 orange Aliens. Yellow/Red offset Aliens are very nice. You cannot substitute camalots or friends for the Aliens, wont fit. Double set Lowe Balls (med and larger sizes most useful), about 2 1/2 sets of stoppers and RP's. RP's worked well. 1 s... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: Wade Griffith When: Apr 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somebody supposedly lead it on rollerskates while the follower did it in X-country skis. We used to chain up at least 15 to 20 people in a mass simulclimb assault when the Tollhouse Face Off was still happenin in the 90's. Whatever happened to the Face Off? Any other local climbing gatherings still happenin in the area?
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Elephant Walk (5.7)
By: Wade Griffith When: Apr 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wanted to clarify that Elephant Walk is actually 4 pitches. This description only describes the first pitch. This multi pitch climbs is one of the classic routes at Tollhouse Rock and I'd highly recommend climbing it to the top. The pitches following the first crack pitch are great slab climbing with some mixed gear and bolts. The gear list provided here may also be a little excessive. This was probably one of my first leads and I know I did not have a double set of stoppers or that ma... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Spectreman (5.11c)
By: Wade Griffith When: Mar 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tier above Spectreman has a bunch of really fun 5.10 cracks. You can access it from around the corner of the Mystery Blocks. A short 5.7 OW will get you up to the base of the cracks. The steep stemming crack is 5.11 and I think it's called Real Men Don't Spread Their Legs.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Hung Like a Horse (5.11a)
By: Wade Griffith When: Feb 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Fletcher,
Those bolts out right above the roof appeared a few years ago. I think someone was trying to figure out a face route out there or something, got me what they were thinkin'. I don't remember there being any slings or chain to rap off those bolts, maybe there is now. The traditional anchor would be to climb on up and around the left to Climb and Punishment, easy climbing with just a little rope drag.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : At Your Cervix (5.11-)
By: Wade Griffith When: Feb 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! The start is steep tight hands that eventually necks down after about 40 feet. The crux for me was the sustained 5.10 liebacking in the dihedral above. A definite must do for this wall.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Mainstreet (5.10a)
By: Wade Griffith When: Jan 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The couple bolts on Mainstreet were put there prior to big gear I believe. The first bolt used to be a hideous 1/4 that I replaced in 1997. Sure you can get gear in nearby but people still clipped it so I replaced it. The upper bolt is too far away to be part of Neverending Story and has been there a while.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : East L.A.
By: Wade Griffith When: Jan 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is referred to as Nat's Three Star by all the locals I have known. Most of the climbs here are considered boulder problems since the good climbing is all in the first 15 feet on all the problems and from there on they all get easy. Most of the bolts you find on any of those "routes" have had their hangers removed years ago. The climb called "Deniro" in Kelman's guide is "Nat's Three Star" the namesake boulder problem of the area with about 12 feet of roof crack climbing from a sit s... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: Wade Griffith When: Jan 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Chris- The Solar Collector is a bit of a pain to find, super easy to miss while walking down the trail. If [you're walking] from the parking area below Ed's just walk past Holy Saturday, past the Land of the Rising Moon which will be up high on the right. After passing these just keep an eye out on the left side of the trail and you'll see it about 300 ft back. In Kelman's book he says it is adjacent to Turtle Rock Tower although I dont know quite what that is. Virgin's Crack is pretty ... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: Wade Griffith When: Jan 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think a yellow Alien is totally bomber gear at the initial moves, all about the competence of the climber placing it. The first pitch doesnt have a move harder than 5.9, but it is sustained. Harder for people with small hands up high. The last pitch does not involve campusing as said earlier. Really bomber hands out overhang lead to a good shelf hold above the lip- I bet if Bob was up there he'd use it.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill
By: Wade Griffith When: Jan 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: While it is always a pretty good idea to wear a helmet, I think the previous comment is a bit exaggerated. I've climbed at Reynold's extensively and have never had any problems with rockfall. I think the rock out there is actually quite good and sports some cool knobby crystal face climbing on routes such as Achille's Last Stand (AKA Ain't Crack Headwall) and Bad Man with a Devil's Hand.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park : Rowdy Joe Bad (5.11c)
By: Wade Griffith When: Jan 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, the climb is Rowdy Joe Bad- named after Bob Scarpelli's pitbull after he intimidated a group from Boulder at the base of the crag. Think it is probably 11b and don't think it is that serious.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Ghost Dance (5.11)
By: Wade Griffith When: Jan 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #4 Friend works well in the one obvious spot in the beginning. #4 Camalot will work deep at the beginning of the offwidth at the top. One of my favorite routes at Vedauwoo.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Nitrogen Narcosis (5.11a)
By: Wade Griffith When: Jan 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Case of the wimpy's? Is that like the Mondays?
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