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Rock Climbing Photo: Kloof at night!


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact WadeM

WadeM
is a member of
Point Rank: # 2,956
Total Points: 210
Last Year: 79
Last 30 Days: 2
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has WadeM been climbing?










Contributions


All 558 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 223 | Stars 231 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : M3 Crag : Pis-Aller (M6-7) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: Opening sequence is awesome!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : M3 Crag : Wendy's Splitter (5.6 M3)
By: WadeM When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: Probably one of the most splitter moderate cracks on the Front Range. No anchors though. The suggested rack should leave you with enought to build an anchor.

Walk off down and climber's left. There's a tiered system that deposits you about 70 feet left of the crack.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Cowboy Justice (5.13)
By: WadeM When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: FA: Ben Rueck on trad!!!!!!


Location: AL : Steele : SCC Property : Squaw (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: WadeM When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Holds are not obvious from below, inspecting from above will give better chance

Below the loose rock just below the roof. I kicked off a big block last time


Location: AL : Steele : SCC Property : Mystery Route on Hot Wing B... (5.9+)
By: WadeM When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Finger crack finish is pretty fun!


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: WadeM When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Your #2 is still in there looking brand new. Great route! A small handed individual with dual nut tools could maybe get that cam out.

Doesn't need much gear - packs a punch.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Single fingers, double 0.5-4, set of alloys would be great.

Fixed nut on P1.
P2 is great stemming and layback.
P3 - traverse is fairly straightforward. Downclimb off belay, and then keep your crimp hand strong. Roof is bomber #2s - easier I thought than Vertigo roof.
P4/5 - wide for a short stint, then steep jugs to the top!

Great route!!!

Could run in two pitches with smart use of slings.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: WadeM When: Sep 4, 2015

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Comments: Linked Psychosis to 3 Old Farts to direct roof this morning with a 70m and had plenty of rope to get to the good trees. Don't know which way the previous poster went to have to use 75m.

Carried doubles in finger, singles in 1-4, with an extra 2 and seemed to be about perfect. Double in 0.75/1 would probably help.

One of the best roofs in Eldo!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: WadeM When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: No fixed gear is present except the pin at the top.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: WadeM When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Giving this a conditional 4 stars, as I think it just needs more traffic. The route stays on you the whole time, the upper pitches really make it worth it.

The rock is still flaky, hence the traffic comment. I didn't send the crux pitch, but one of my falls was due to a foothold blowing.

Great job on an awesome route. All belays are bolted.

GET ON IT!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : ... : Photo
By: WadeM When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Definitely off route.

Stay further left, and there's a move or two of 8+.

Might as well solo it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Great route!

First pitch is very runout, so we soloed up to the ledge.

Traverse easy, so an award move or two. Rest of climb was straightforward.

Gear:
doubles 0.1-0.4,
singles 0.5-3.

Probably could have done without the three, but it's nice to have in a couple spots.

Topout is great! I've gardened the mud out of the splitters, so this thing is clean for the season!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Great route in a great setting makes for a wonderful day out.

Not much to add, but do remember to save a #4 for high up on the wide pitch.

We combined p2 & p3, to finish in 5 pitches.

Rating: I don't see how this would be 11a. The thin part is maybe 10 feet long but with great feet. Maybe if you had to rand smear, it would be harder. Being at 13,000 does add difficulty, but I've climbed many harder 11a's in Eldo.

Wide pitch is 10a. Plenty of rests. Make sure to bring small gear too, as... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Aiguille de Fleur : Victory Garden (5.9) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Cracks to the right look good, too! Nice work.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: 10+ to .9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : East Face North Side/1st Fl... (5.2 R)
By: WadeM When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Seemed hard this morning...5.6.

I agree with Tony.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Gumbo (5.7)
By: WadeM When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: The crux is first two moves off the ground.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: WadeM When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: It's all C/A1 till you fall


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: Getting a solid kneebar entering the crux brought this climb to 11- for me. Two strenuous moves to no hands rest at the chockstones.

If heading left (easier exit), continue up 8/9 climbing to the top.

You can pull the next roof at about 9+ with a #3 and hit the upper anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: P1: Bring many slings and QDs, you can place a nut behind the first chockstone you get to, but probably won't do crap. I lead with 1 Bigbro and a handful of slings. Combine with P2 for a beautiful combo. The 5.7 chimney has a drilled angle and a star drive, but they are not needed.

P3: The wild step across. First three pins/bolts are ancient and need replacing. You can continue to stem high enough to clip the first actual bolt if you are tall enough.

P4: Either head up the 11+ tips crack ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: WadeM When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Not a surprise for the locals, but bolts will not be found on this route. New climbers - avoid building a high belay on p1 in the hollow flakes.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: Must have been a good camera, dont mind the photographer


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: Fixed nut in dihedral is gone. Bring a yellow alloy offset for crux piece. The rest is up to you! Enjoy


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: Still very poopy but fun. Redguard approach isn't the greatest. I was thinking it would be fun to link in from the Naked Edge.

Great exposed climbing once you get to it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : Concrete Shoes Won't Help Y... (WI4- M4+)
By: WadeM When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Climbed 12/13/14.

All ice on route was super hard and plating but good enough to climb.

Mixed pitch had about 2-4 inches of ice going up the runnels.

Final pitch was really good.

Then 700 ft of bs gully to the top of the ridge.

Hiking out on the road in mtneering boots is demoralizing.

2 star route, with a crappy descent, don't think I'll be back without either stashing a bike or waiting until the road opens.


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