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Rock Climbing Photo: Kloof at night!


Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact WadeM

WadeM
is a member of
Point Rank: # 2,909
Total Points: 224
Last Year: 79
Last 30 Days: 9
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has WadeM been climbing?










Contributions


All 638 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 84 | Posts 235 | Stars 282 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Point of Entry (5.10c)
By: WadeM When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Fun, short route then lots of traversing. Good way to get atop and set a TR for the 12s.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : You are Here (5.10+)
By: WadeM When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Agreed, stout for 10+.

Usually pretty dirty, because it rarely gets done. Once you are past the dihedral, it's a somewhat contrived traverse out right to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Easy to avoid it, but about halfway through the 5.8 pitch, there is a very loose, triangular block.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Liquor Mart (5.11 PG13)
By: WadeM When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Cool route and fun movement. Lower section definitely has some sporty moves.

Pins at the crux (there are 3) held a fall as of April 2016. Really unique movement for Eldo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: Did a quick count of Mtn Proj ticks. Not a surprise to see Stefan leading the count

1 Stefan Griebel  73
2 Guy H.  12
3 Nax Seigal  10
4 Chris Archer  6
5 Wade M  6
6 Devan Johnson  5
7 Mark Hammond  4
8 Phil Lauffen  4
9 Brent Butler  3
10 Charles Vernon  3


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Interceptor (5.11b R)
By: WadeM When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Great pitch!

Single rack of finger and maybe doubles on 1.

I placed a #2 (not great) and a 0.75 (bomber) before the crux runout, number 1 would have been better.

You can get in something smaller higher, but honestly that would be a speedbump.

High quality but definitely R (a safe clean long fall).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Without A Net (5.11+ PG13)
By: WadeM When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: We noticed the tri-cam placement, but going for this lead onsight, I'd give it R-.

I also imagine it hadn't been climbed in a while, because it was overgrown with lichen. I really enjoyed the climbing!

Just needs a little cleaning!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Wiggins II (5.12-)
By: WadeM When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Definitely the toughest 12- Ive been on in the Creek. Its good and sooo long

Good hands don't come till the anchor

Seemed:
45-50 feet 1s
25 ft .75
10 ft boulder problem at pin
15 ft .5
20 ft .75 to 1s
Good Hands to the anchor


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Lincoln Creek Cliff : Peruvian Flake (5.10a)
By: WadeM When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Although easy, there was a mild run between the pin and next gear if I remember correctly.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Puzzle Factory (5.12)
By: WadeM When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Mirroring Ryan's comments:

4 nice for start
1.5 under the roof
.5s to the rest out right
2-3 .75s to the chains

Great Route


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Green Cam Lieback (aka Past... (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: Boulder Problem takes a .75 off the deck and an optional 2 or 3 - Don't blow it though. It would not be fun

Blast .5s (maybe 4-5) till a rest. Climb the easy slot to a thin hands crack with plenty of feet. Real business is the layback


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Scary Canary (5.12b/c R)
By: WadeM When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Purple C3 protects P1 pretty well, and back up the pin with a yellow Alien.

Great route!!! WILD!!!!!!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Pure Pressure (submitted as... (5.14-)
By: WadeM When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: Ben sent this and is calling it Pure Pressure.

rockandice.com/weekend-whipper...

^^^obv not the send go


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Parting Shot (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Great route! Bolts are where you want them!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : M3 Crag : Pis-Aller (M6-7) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: Opening sequence is awesome!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : M3 Crag : Wendy's Splitter (5.6 M3)
By: WadeM When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: Probably one of the most splitter moderate cracks on the Front Range. No anchors though. The suggested rack should leave you with enought to build an anchor.

Walk off down and climber's left. There's a tiered system that deposits you about 70 feet left of the crack.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Pure Pressure (submitted as... (5.14-)
By: WadeM When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: FA: Ben Rueck on trad!!!!!!


Location: AL : Steele : SCC Property : Squaw (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: WadeM When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Holds are not obvious from below, inspecting from above will give better chance

Below the loose rock just below the roof. I kicked off a big block last time


Location: AL : Steele : SCC Property : Mystery Route on Hot Wing B... (5.9+)
By: WadeM When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Finger crack finish is pretty fun!


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: WadeM When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Your #2 is still in there looking brand new. Great route! A small handed individual with dual nut tools could maybe get that cam out.

Doesn't need much gear - packs a punch.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Single fingers, double 0.5-4, set of alloys would be great.

Fixed nut on P1.
P2 is great stemming and layback.
P3 - traverse is fairly straightforward. Downclimb off belay, and then keep your crimp hand strong. Roof is bomber #2s - easier I thought than Vertigo roof.
P4/5 - wide for a short stint, then steep jugs to the top!

Great route!!!

Could run in two pitches with smart use of slings.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: WadeM When: Sep 4, 2015

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Comments: Linked Psychosis to 3 Old Farts to direct roof this morning with a 70m and had plenty of rope to get to the good trees. Don't know which way the previous poster went to have to use 75m.

Carried doubles in finger, singles in 1-4, with an extra 2 and seemed to be about perfect. Double in 0.75/1 would probably help.

One of the best roofs in Eldo!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.12d)
By: WadeM When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: No fixed gear is present except the pin at the top.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: WadeM When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Giving this a conditional 4 stars, as I think it just needs more traffic. The route stays on you the whole time, the upper pitches really make it worth it.

The rock is still flaky, hence the traffic comment. I didn't send the crux pitch, but one of my falls was due to a foothold blowing.

Great job on an awesome route. All belays are bolted.

GET ON IT!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : ... : Photo
By: WadeM When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Definitely off route.

Stay further left, and there's a move or two of 8+.

Might as well solo it.


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