Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : The Sound of One Shoe Tappi... (5.8)
By: Vitaliy When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strange bolt placements - no bolts at the cruxes - plenty of bolts where you don't need them. 60m is just enough to setup TR on this and W.A.C. Excellent friction - better than Swing Low.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Phantom (5.13- R) : Photo
By: Vitaliy When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw the guy in the picture running laps soloing Big Moe in JTree on 4/17/2011. What's his name?
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Rock Candy (5.9)
By: Vitaliy When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct start is a strenuous under-cling to a reachy tiny hold with very slippery foot holds. I tried it on TR and failed numerous times, Dave Mayville [too-strong] cruised right through the direct start and said it was just a 10d :)
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : ... : Photo
By: Vitaliy When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: what's the second standing on? The base is way lower ...
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Jumping Jehosephat (5.7)
By: Vitaliy When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this route since Leaping Leaner was taken, setup a TR with a 50ft extendo -- not a great idea. Rap from Leaping Leaner bolts -- it's easy to get to but go through the back to reach it -- it's a fairly easy 8ft crack that gets you right in the notch where Leaping Leaner terminates.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: Vitaliy When: Oct 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route to practice crack climbing skills. Hard to protect start (it was originally done by leaping from a bolder above) so let someone competent at 5.9 lead it.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: Vitaliy When: Oct 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fully committing to reach each stance was the key for me to make it a solid lead. On my first lead here I tried to place pro midway through a move and it was a nightmare. Bottom line: find the stances and it's enjoyable, blow/not reach them and it's a scary lead.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Funny Bone (5.8-)
By: Vitaliy When: Oct 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route, great warmup for the 5.10s next to it. Lots of foot holds that are not obvious at first but once discovered they make it very easy and a solid lead.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : ... : Photo
By: Vitaliy When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: it's easier to cross over few steps lower -- there's a good foot-hold out left (on top of the flake you are stepping over to).
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Toe Jam (5.7)
By: Vitaliy When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower section (undercling) has a stuck stopper, huge footholds everywhere. One move before last (at the top) will get your attention if you are not used to trusting your feet (slippery 5.7). Don't get stuck in the crack on that section -- lots of foot/hand holds to be found to the left.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : The Chief (5.5)
By: Vitaliy When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two options to top-out: to the right bypassing the "summit" block (easy) and going slightly left on the top of the "summit" block following the crack (one 5.7 move). #3 + #2 C4 for the natural gear anchor.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : The Chief (5.5)
By: Vitaliy When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts at the top (and in-route) are gone as of SEP-25-2011.
|
RSS Feed
