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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bloody Spire : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: vincent L. When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb can be done in one pitch very easily. Put an extra long sling on the bolt before the traverse left.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : East Face : The Fang-Left Side (5.9)
By: vincent L. When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is working up the short crack at the start. Solid finger locks lead to a couple insecure pods. Jam those real good , try to get a toe in the thin crack , and reach high for a solid hand jam . The short chimney is fun and you make an airy exit onto easy face climbing up to the anchor.
You can TR various bolted routes from the anchor.
It is a fun climb.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Seven (5.8)
By: vincent L. When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 70m rope you can rap off the tree at the top of the first pitch of after 7 . It is a rope stretcher. If you swing right into after six, you can reach a good ledge about six feet off the ground , then a short and easy downclimb...
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Mount Doom
By: vincent L. When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A worthy little crag. The approach is about 25 minutes from the parking lot. The easiest way to set up a TR is to climb the 5.7 slab route. Very pretty views from the top, one can see the ocean.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : Fote Hog (5.6) : Photo
By: vincent L. When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: you totally cruxed it
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Castle Rock Proper : Chimney (5.6)
By: vincent L. When: Dec 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun , short , stout , 5.6 chimney. Near the top , if you chose to stay right of the 5.9 face , there are fun runout moves that will see you to the top. I'm not sure if it is considered part of the chimney route but it is harder than 5.6 . The last moves are an exciting mantle with the key holds on top being part of a hole that might or might not have water in it.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Upper Tier, 5.10 Face (5.10)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are now anchor bolts atop this route. I don't think you need 8' to 10' feet of webbing to avoid your TR damaging the rock. I used a couple of extended trad draws.
I believe that in order for this route to be 10a as it is in the SF bay area guide book, you need to start climbing out onto the face right next to the tree in Chouinard's crack. When you are climbing up the crack , there are some deceptive jugs out right before you actually get to the good rest by the tree. If you can send the ... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Upper Tier, Chouinard's Cra... (5.9+)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also think this route is 5.9 . It was somewhat sandy but still quite fun and worth doing. I belayed my friend up from the top. There are huge scars in the soft rock from repeated toproping. I anchored off a tree about 30 feet back from the end of the climb. Just as I was starting to belay, I noticed a set of anchors right next to me. They are easy to miss, they are on the right side of the top of the route and they actually face away from the route.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier, Amazing Face (5.10a)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow some climbers around here are hard to please. Don't let the indifferent attitude of the person who created the page for this route deter you. "Amazing Face" is a beautiful route and a classic by Bay Area standards IMO. It reminds of one of the pitches on 'Birdland' in Red Rocks. A route well worth doing again and again.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Summit Rock - Castle Rock : Worm Belly (5.10b R)
By: vincent L. When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somewhat sketchy climbing off of small holds past the first bolt. Reach up high and right over the lip to find much more positive holds. A pretty good route, fun start.
I'm pretty sure there are only three lead bolts.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Summit Rock - Castle Rock
By: vincent L. When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of this weekend there are a lot of bees around the Santa Clara Practice Route (5.8). It looks like they would be an issue if you were doing Bolt Filcher too.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - Southeast Fac... : Knightline (5.10c/d)
By: vincent L. When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb pictured is Knightline and I feel it is 10a , the Singer guide also calls it 10a.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Black Streak (5.10b R)
By: vincent L. When: Apr 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is pretty clean these days. It is runout and a few of the bolts are old and don't inspire much confidence.
It is a pretty good route though with good moves on mostly solid rock.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Indecent Exposure (5.7)
By: vincent L. When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are three bolts on this route. it is run out and the second bolt is older than my grandma's rocking chair. you can get a blue alien in between the first and second bolts behind a block but it inspires little confidence.
the climb is mungy, and it is harder than 5.7, closer to 5.9
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Knee Surgery (5.9+)
By: vincent L. When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are three bolts. the climbing after the third bolt is run out, the route is only 60 feet high so you don't need to climb far above the last bolt to be in a position to fall over half the route.
the route is good but it is mungy. doesn't seem like it gets climbed much. it is a good route to climb.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Revival (5.10a)
By: vincent L. When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: it is possible to top rope this route if your belayer hangs out in the tree about twenty feet up via some easy scrambling, you can do this with a 60M rope.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: vincent L. When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In order to reach the actual bishop's terrace, and the good little aid crack that goes through the roof of bishop's terrace, go directly right from the anchor atop the bishop's terrace route. Then head up an easy crack to gain the right side of the terrace. From here the terrace slopes down to the right.
What i used to do, is do this second pitch as I described, and then rap off the anchors that are on the far right side of bishop's terrace. Here you only need one rope to rap to the ground. So... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arrowhead Arete
By: vincent L. When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the approach from the trail can be hard to find especially in spring if things are growing. Plan on a two hour approach at least, not very fun. The arrowhead point route itself is not good enough to warrant the trudge up there, but if you do the arowhead arete as well, I think it is well worth it. The arrowhead arete may only be 5.8 , not 5.9 . The arrowhead point is only 5.6 .
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Sid... (5.9)
By: vincent L. When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wonderful route. If it is at all wet on the glacier point apron, this route may well be wet. I was up near the fourth pitch which is kind of runout on a fixed pin that looked pretty old. I look up the wall above me and the slightest trickle of water was approaching, just like when you wash your car and the first bits of water start running down the gutter.
I did the friction moves wet, and after that the water just increased. The route was mostly wet. On the pitch before the final chimney, I b... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8)
By: vincent L. When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Often times people belay at the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch. It is better to go up the easy ramp to the base of the roof near the dead tree and belay instead. Doing this frees up that anchor for toproping the bolted route to the left of harry daley, and it also allows people to rap from the anchor on the way down from the top of harry daley.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack, Marginal (5.9 R)
By: vincent L. When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A number 1 camalot for the second pitch before you go over the small roof, after that nothing bigger than a yellow alien is necessary. Quite a good route. Bring second rope to rappel.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Park Ridge Rock : Boobalicious (5.9+)
By: vincent L. When: Feb 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route pictured here is not 5.9+. It doesn't really help anyone to sandbag it. It is bolted for lead now with three solid bolts. It's very safe and in my opinion it goes at at least 10b .
It is a very worthwhile route on flawless white rock.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Wilderness Wall : Tecnu (5.9+ PG13)
By: vincent L. When: Feb 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would be hard to completely avoid poison oak at the base. It's even harder to keep your rope out of it. It is obvious that the base was cleared at one point, but nature is pretty resilient and the oak is starting to grow back.
A pretty good route even though it is about 30 feet high. It's pretty much a bush whack from the top of the route to the main trail. You're better off using the little access trail that goes to the base than trying to reach the top and then rap in.
A good route wor... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Rusty's Cave (5.8)
By: vincent L. When: Jan 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a lot more moss/lichen/algae , what ever it is , on the second pitch. More than there was last year. It makes the route more fun.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Slate's Spire : Regular Route (5.5 R)
By: vincent L. When: Jan 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the route during an average low tide. I got wet up to my waist; it was not big deal , only added to the fun. I don't feel that is necessary to wait until some ridiculously low tide to do the route. Timing the start of the route in between sets was more exhilarating than the climbing , which is very easy.
I thought about doing a tyrolean to get off. I was going to anchor the other end to the guardrail supports on the road. It looked to be quite a stretch though , at least 150... more >>
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