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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a)
By: vincent pierce When: Oct 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't find the dihedral to be too difficult , though it probably is 5.10. My trouble came about eight feet from the top when I got near the chicken head. I grabbed it as a hand hold and was so pumped that I lost it while making my move. Had a nice sized fall from that one! Guess I should have just stuck with the jams! Nothing like falling two moves from the top.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Movie Variation (5.8)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.8? I must have done something wrong cause I struggled after it turns the corner and goes vertical. The undercling shuffle is quite fun and if it were longer it might get an extra star. Unfortunately it's really only a few moves and you're done.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun offwidth? As this route demonstrates... it IS possible! The last 5.8 move was a big surprise and felt pretty hard. A 60m rope, with care, will get you into the trees on the right side of the base of the climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Madison Avenue (5.10d)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the first bolt to the last, this route stays tough. It has that S-curve down sloping hold thing going on. It feels 10.d all the way up and, because it is so sustained, seems WAY harder than the 10.d next to it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Lowe Route (5.8)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A total classic! The dihedral is beyond fun with totally solid hand and foot jams and the last pitch is a dream of patina with INSANE exposure! The final pitch really protects quite well, however, the climbing is so fun and easy that, before you know it you may be twenty feet past yr last piece. The only bummer is,of course, the approach. But hey, it is a character building experience.I did this as a day trip which I really regret. The extra gear for an overnighter would be well worth it in my o... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : The Green Adjective (5.9)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking up at this thin crack you think "no way"... but somehow there are just enough fingertip holds and fingerjams to get you up. It actually protects fairly well with little nuts. One of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: As good a 5.7 as you will ever find. Routes of this grade are rarely this steep but those holds up high are soooo good.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is definately the 5.9 and Crack in Woods is the 5.8. Pretty fun route using lots of medium gear. I would recommend starting this route from its base at the bottom of the chimney. I downclimbed the chimney from the top of Crack in the Woods and leading it this way means you have to climb about ten to fifteen feet before placing. This could set you up for a nasty weird toprope slam into the chimney wall at what may be the crux of the route (undercling flake to the crack).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook (5.8 R)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you like to layback up great rock with super good stances to place pro? Of course you do! Really fun but alas, it ends so quickly. 3 stars if it were longer. Still... the slab traverse out of the flake and the finish up the hook variaton is quality. Don't let the "R" rating keep you from doing it. It's only 10' or so from the flake to the bolt.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: vincent pierce When: Aug 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is a little harder than it looks. The jams are pretty deep but climbing is straight forward. Second pitch is just plain fun with a sweet flake traverse loaded with great exposure. Don't forget your foot jam on the cruxy section above the halfway ledge!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Stem the Tide (5.10d R)
By: vincent pierce When: Aug 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: well this would be a scary ass lead but... if you do satans then u MUST toprope this climb. Crazy stemming will get you up it... just barely.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Chorus Line (5.9)
By: vincent pierce When: Aug 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I kinda think this is HARDER than it looks. All the holds on the mini roof seem to face the wrong way. CAUTION: don't climb the corner to the right of the roof... clipping from there is not easy and you take a nasty swing if u fall before you can clip.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10c)
By: vincent pierce When: Jul 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun... but clipping those chains is quite awkward.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Dreamscape (5.9+)
By: vincent pierce When: Jun 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2nd bolt has been replaced. In my eyes this is a well protected climb. The 15-20ft to the first bolt are quite easy and it stays safe (but a little runout) after that. Footwork is key!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: vincent pierce When: May 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: My fave pitch as well! Super classic. I'm pretty sure this is solid 5.9... not old school 5.9 but it makes for an interesting warm-up if you are just breaking into that range of tradThe direct 5.9r start really isn't bad. You can get a piece in pretty low down and it's not as hard as the crux section midway up where it starts getting steep and you have no feet. Of course there is some deck potential so... watch out. .
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Crack Face (5.7)
By: vincent pierce When: May 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, easy trad! Hard to judge the rating, all depends on if you go left when the crack dies or go up and right. More people should do the routes on this face... great for beginners.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7)
By: vincent pierce When: May 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hate myself for it but i just CAN'T get with this route! The first pitch is really fun and very good for new leaders but that OW on p-2 seems to have my number. I make it a 5.10 every time as I can't stop getting sucked into that squeeze. If you want to just do the first pitch.... there are anchors just left of the great ledge in the trees.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Sasquatch (5.9+)
By: vincent pierce When: May 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb that protects really well! One foot in the thin crack and one foot smearing the smooth lcc granite. Trust it!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Perhaps (5.7)
By: vincent pierce When: Nov 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really fun route. It's real long but it's such a cruiser that u finish before u know it. The little downclimb wasn't "fun" but it shouldn't stop anyone from doing the route.The book has kept me away from this for a while with its description of nasty rope drag but... if u use slings and protect the corners it isn't bad at all. I saw no need for the optional belay in the middle of pitch 2.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: vincent pierce When: Oct 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure that the traverse from the top of the squeeze chimney to the bottom of p.5 is about forty feet! My memory could be fooling me however. And yeh, there is a place or two to put in some pro but... it's so easy that, for me at least, it wasn't worth the effort.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon
By: vincent pierce When: Oct 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A number of these routes would be three stars if not for the location. The highway is annoying and the descent to the base is heinous. Other than that, the climbing is great.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Out of Touch (5.9+ R)
By: vincent pierce When: Oct 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeh, this is a good route. It looks like it would be the hardest on the wall thanx to the roof but... it's not. Whatever you do, make sure you follow the bolts over that roof! Don't chicken out and go right. The holds are there. Just suck it up and go for it! Great moves with fun exposure.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Iron Curtain (5.10a)
By: vincent pierce When: Oct 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably the funnest route on the wall. Mantle that ledge! Next comes a very difficult clip to a piton. You would have to be 6'3 to clip this thing from the ledge with out a problem. I am 6'1 and, same as Nathan, I had to tiptoe on two slightly higher edges to just barely clip the sucker. The prob here is, if you fall you will likely deck! So... if you are a shortie and don't feel like breaking yr legs on a sport route, you could easily do the route to the left (they share anchors) and clip it... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: If u are a solid 5.6 or 5.7 leader this climb is great! Plenty of pro (except for p.4 where there is next to none). Good belays. A nice intro to multipitch climbing. Do the 5.7 direct to make it 3 stars. The "runout" is basically a two move traverse that should get you ready for the forty foot runout traverse on pitch 4.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: vincent pierce When: Sep 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definately the way to start Schoolroom.
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