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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab : Heart of Darkness (5.8+ R)
By: Vince Romney When: Aug 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route yesterday AM. Not a good route for the 5.8 climber, as the rating is a little soft and the R rating is significant. Route finding is a little difficult in some areas (see pitch descriptions below), but other than pitch 5 this was a lot of fun. The altitude gain is awesome!
Approach: From the bottom of the buttress, move up and left (east) to nearly the upper edge where you'll see a bolt about 30' up the slab.
Pitch 1: Really long runout to the first bolt, low angle, maybe 5... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Spastic Funk (5.9 R)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now that I've done this a couple times, I think I was a bit mellow on the rating. There are definitely some 5.9 moves on this, and it requires some good focus and placement skill on the part of the leader. That being said, I also like the climb alot more now, and am giving it two stars. We cleaned a lot of the "Funk" out this last trip, and it will only get better. A few more trips, some chains at the top, and it will be a fun, solid 5.9 trad climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Prune Face Slab : Iron Grit (5.11a R)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first couple of moves off the starting chicken-head are the crux (although well protected by the first bolt). It eases up shortly after passing the first bolt, but remains engaging until the third bolt, where it rolls into 5.6/5.7. Personally, I think the crux moves are actually a little harder than Cheetah (also rated 5.11a).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Talking Tough (5.9)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Currently, the bolts are 1/4", on old SMC hangars. I really enjoyed the climb otherwise. Have your trad skills honed as the pro is limited.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Face to Face : Amber Lies (5.11b R)
By: Vince Romney When: May 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a pretty fun route, but the chossy mess at the base of the arete is a major detractor. There is only one location for pro before the bolt (about 10' up), and it's amidst the choss and suspect at best. The crux seemed to be a mandatory, off-balance and height-dependent reach to surmount a blank section. Once through that section, the rest of the climb was straight forward, pumpy climbing. Worth the short hike up the talus.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tarzan (5.10a)
By: Vince Romney When: May 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would add to the comments about the start... it has greased up significantly since I first started climbing this in the 1980's, and I believe it's shy a couple crystals down low. For some reason it wasn't the best option to try with a full day pack and right off the winter couch (upside down fall...not happy). The Sweet Jane variation is likewise a tad greased up, and also not well suited to a weighty, swinging backpack. Excuses, excuses...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Vince Romney When: Oct 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer tower route in range for most competent trad leaders. Definitely think 5.11 is a bit over-the-top. Maybe hard 5.10, and only a couple of moves while freeing the bolt ladders. Someone commented on using a screamer or two if freeing the bolt ladders... no doubt that would have made it less sphincter constricting, they're pretty manky. Otherwise, not a bad day out even in hideous winds which drove sand into every crevice of my body.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Cheetah (5.11b R)
By: Vince Romney When: Aug 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of fun! Definitely agree with Nathan... do pitch one and two together, and then make the trip up pitch three as it offers some of the best climbing on the entire route. This was my first foray into 5.11 20 years ago and it still grabs my attention today. The crux bulge is always a puzzler... work those feet high!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10c)
By: Vince Romney When: Aug 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a bit of beta for the lead...
as I approach the chains, I have found there is an adequate right hand up high and right, which allows me to hang off a straight arm to clip my daisy chain into the chains with my left hand. I find this a key hold as most of the time I'm usually a little pumped by the time I reach the chains.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : Take Me To The River (5.7)
By: Vince Romney When: Aug 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did some recon based on a number of questions that have come up about the bolt lines on Dogwood, and I've added a photo to this route. I believe the new bolt line (west most current bolt line as of 8/1/04) follows the original Take Me To The River route. I honestly don't know when this occurred, but it's been a while since that bolt line appeared. I climbed the line and it feels 5.7-ish, so I'm sold on it being the original route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Astroprojection (5.11d)
By: Vince Romney When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used it, but don't know if it's "on" or not. It may actually be part of "Dirty Rotten Horror". The only thing I know is "off" for sure is the arete on the left of the upper face.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Lowe Blow (5.9+)
By: Vince Romney When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would bee the large, left-angled crack on the east side of the Egg fomration. The first few moves to the bottom crack on the first pitch are unprotected, but easy.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg
By: Vince Romney When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've climbed many times on the Egg in mid-winter during our 40-50 degree day warm-spells. It offers varied face and crack/groove climbing, with a particularly interesting (awkward) off-width (.9+) courtesy of George Lowe. Pretty much all easy to moderate climbs with a couple .10a's thrown in. Food for the odd day out.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Mind Blow (5.10d R)
By: Vince Romney When: Jul 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer route! The moves just prior to the lip are sweet. Just barely enough bolts, definitely LCC style. Do this, then go do Paranoia Streak.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Viewing (5.10a R)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the direct start to the Viewing is called the "Closed Casket Variation", and is somewhere in the low to mid .11's
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Closed Casket Variation (5.11c)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this today, and definitely feel it really does create a "complete" route for The Viewing. Fun face moves up through the junction with the Viewing. It is definitely thin through the crux, but not too thin. I'll guess .11b/c. Thanks to whoever put this up!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Prune Face Slab : Straight On For You (5.9+ R)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Forgot to add... The Ruckman guide has this rated at 5.8. After doing this I thought my slab technique had gone to hell if it was 5.8. It is actually around 5.9+, and I confirmed this with one of the first ascent party. It was mis-reported to the guide book. Great slab climb with interesting moves. Well worth the 5 minute approach! Also, the belay anchor currently has a spinner. I'll see if I can repair that this weekend.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well John, there's proof that the mind goes with old age. I looked through my Rock and Ice archives and it was indeed Perhaps... I wonder when I'll start needing Depends?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pearls Before Swine (5.10c)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is the line of bolts ascending directly up from the belay chains for the last pitch of Pentapitch, I think it is .10c. I met the guy while toproping at Strategem(first name Brian) who put it up . He said it was .10c. I did it last year and felt that was reasonably accurate, particularly between the 3rd and 4th bolt, where you have those inverted edges on the left, and nothing significant anywhere else. So, if you did this route and felt it was 9+, you are truly the slab monster...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : The Green Adjective (5.9)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...almost forgot. Link this with MA#1 and you have a highly entertaining 3-pitch climb with seam, layback, hand, and offwidth techniques. Enjoy!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : The Green Adjective (5.9)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct start protects nicely with a #1 stopper or similar. It's only one move of .10a, with a flat landing if you slip while placing the stopper.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : La Creme De Shorts (5.9)
By: Vince Romney When: Jun 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this again on Memorial Day, and I forgot how cool this is! Bomber jams, slight overhang, and killer stems for stances while placing pro. This is a great pre-climb for Goodro's. Stemming saves the arms.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - The Pile : Dog Pile (5.10b)
By: Vince Romney When: May 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The holds are all there, just move fast to avoid the pump... Good climb to cycle for a workout.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Guano Wall : Guano Roof (5.10d)
By: Vince Romney When: May 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just thought I'd add... You may want to tape up, as the roof crack eats skin.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Vince Romney When: May 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a great route, diverse and with good, committing moves for the grade. I'd caution the inexperienced trad leader to take advantage of each opportunity for pro on the last pitch, particularly as you approach the exit roof. Small-to-micro stoppers are helpful.
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