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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Tic Tac (WI4+ M6-7)
By: Vince Anderson When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA by Sven Krebs, 2000 or 2001.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Casually Off-Route (5.9)
By: Vince Anderson When: Jul 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a great moderate route in the Black Canyon, certainly comparable to Maiden Voyage or Ground Control. The views of the painted wall are spectacular. Finding the route can be tricky for someone not familiar with the wall. It is the first buttress found down gully from the Dragon Tail pinnacle. Make sure you know which buttress you are on before committing. Parties have confused this buttress with the Debutantes Ball buttress before (BIG mistake). The start is on a wide, tree covered ... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: Vince Anderson When: Oct 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I only give this route two stars to help mitigate the "bomb" ratings by some. No, it is not as nice as Maiden Voyage, but it is on good rock the whole way and the crux is really cool face climbing. The second pitch cracks are nice, steep, and easy. The crux is not as bad as people make it out to be. There are two decent placements right at the lip of the roof that can be equalized if you want. You can get a 3" piece in a small horizontal and a silver Metolius just left of it. You can't miss the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Russian Arete (5.9+)
By: Vince Anderson When: Oct 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is great and well worth doing as the description above implies. I did not feel like I encountered any more loose rock than one might find on any big route in the Black. There is some here and there, but not too much in my opinion. That being said, I would think twice before climbing underneath another party on this route. The description here and in Robbie's book is generally good. I would offer the following comments having done the route twice now: A nice belay for pitch two is just ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Vince Anderson When: Oct 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ice is starting to form down here, thoug not in the park or any of the normal, winter climbing areas. It is coming in way up high above 12,000 ft. There is ice on the N. face of Kismet and on Sneffels. Also, there are reports of some very interesting stuff coming in on the N. side of Pigeon and Index, south of Silverton. You can check www.skywardmountaineering.com for updated climbing conditions for the San Juans.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: Vince Anderson When: Apr 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is good, in my opinion. There are some fun pitches down low, and though the top is not five star quality, it is still a worth while excursion for those looking for an easier climb in the Black Canyon. It is easy to couple with Maiden Voyage for a full day of climbing. That being said, the crux is serious and should not be underestimated by the faint at heart. I found a descent #3 placement in a horizontal pocket at the lip of the roof which was far more encouraging than the cam d... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Lauren's Arete (5.9 R)
By: Vince Anderson When: Apr 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb does feel much more like a mountaineering route than a modern rock climb, but that is true of many routes in the Black. The views from the belays are some of the finest of any route in the Black Canyon. The climb was one of the better easy routes I have done there. I would recommend to those looking for a good adventure. A few comments worth noting about the route itself: There is a lot of poison ivy near the base of the route. Finding it can be the crux. There is a ledge system that c... more >>
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