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Member Since: Apr 24, 2005
Last Visit: Jan 8, 2014
Contact Vince MacMillan


Point Rank: # 3,742
Total Points: 123
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Vince MacMillan been climbing?










Contributions


All 201 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 14 | Stars 143 | Ratings 11

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Photo
By: Vince MacMillan When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Please note that this petroglyph panel is on private land.


Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Big Gypsum - Dolores : Psycho Tower : Psycho-Path (5.9+)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: For what is worth: Psycho Tower is only accessible by crossing private land. Instead of parking in the user-made pull-out on private, please park at the BLM picnic ground 1/3 of a mile to the west and walk to the tower from there. This will minimize the obviousness of your trespassing and at least delay additional conflicts with the landowners. Thanks!


Location: David Appelhans : Cochamo, Chile : Photo
By: Vince MacMillan When: Mar 19, 2009

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Comments: I think that that direct line was climbed (A3-4?) by Coloradans Nathan Martin and Steve Quinlan and that the next line to the right, on the left side of that 400' leaning pillar, is called Ides of March: 69.16.220.132/doc/web07-08w/wf...


Location: CO : Call for Outdoor Writers - ...
By: Vince MacMillan When: Feb 8, 2009

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Comments: "Not trying to be a dick. . . ."
Here's to success without trying! Any pointers on how to use ellipses at the end of a quotation will be much appreciated.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Mystery Machine (5.10b/c)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Dec 13, 2008

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Comments: "Like, zoinks, Scoob!" A bitchingly long,varied pitch.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Town (5.10d)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Nov 12, 2008

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Comments: This felt harder for me than I remember Scarface feeling, which seems to be the consensus 11- at the Creek. Please don't tell me its because I suck more now than I did then. . . .


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Northern San Juans : Lizard Head
By: Vince MacMillan When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: "It was apparent when we reached the Head that there was nasty work before us. A rottener mass of rock is inconceivable. The core may still be solid but the "surrounding tuffs" are seeking a lower level in large quantities. This far-advanced disintegration was our greatest obstacle. Absolutely the whole surface of the rock is loose and pebbles rain down from the sides as readily as needles from an aging Christmas tree." ALBERT L. ELLINGWOOD, November, 1921.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Northern San Juans : Lizard Head : Southwest Chimney (5.8 R)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: Peter Gram's description at the top is a good one for what the Telluride Rocks guide (both the 1997 and 2005 editions) calls the South Crack, which is on the Southeast corner of the pinnacle (i.e. maybe correct the name listed here to avoid confusion?).

Additional info.: there is a very good rappel anchor (2 solid bolts and some backup pitons) about 20 feet west of the belay notch. This anchor is a Way Better option than rapping off of that webbing-draped, detached flake in ... more >>


Location: CO : Alex Honnold Free Solos Moo...
By: Vince MacMillan When: Apr 9, 2008

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Comments: I am with Scott T. on this one. I heard about this maybe 10 days after being on the route myself and couldn't hardly get to sleep that night. While free-solos may not necessarily "advance" the sport, Mr. Honnold has significantly Expanded the Realm of the Possible. I hope that the whole buttress falls down before anyone else has a chance to repeat his singular performance (with no one near it, of course). And Dude? No need to die trying to top that one. Put a harness on fer f!ck's sake!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Jan 8, 2008

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Comments: Pitch 1 and Pitch 2 are both 115 feet long (i.e. 70 meter rope will do the trick but you still probably want two ropes for the descent).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Mexican Hat : Bandito Route (C1)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Feb 20, 2007

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Comments: Sixth Class Bouldering at its finest. Better bring a stick from home though, as there are not many to be found out in that country. For me: I have been carrying my fishing pole around on my rack for years, knowing that, in spite of the repeated protests of my climbing partners, someday it would come in handy. Thanks Mexican Hat, thanks for giving me my first aid lead. I will always remember you. . . .


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Aug 7, 2006

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Comments: Absolutely Freakin' Stupendous Route! One note however: When following my pard's outstanding lead effort I got to the section before the final roof and shoved a thin hand jam in just below a well placed #7 Hex. As I wrenched down with my thumb I noticed with mild horror that the seemingly solid crack expanded and the piece slid out all on its own. That entire 8-10 foot section beneath that amazing roof finish is, somehow, an "expando" flake! A fall out of the pumpy roof on to any gear in t... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Apr 18, 2006

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Comments: One-star climbing to a Four-star summit. Anybody else ever notice that Stewart Green's Climbing Utah topo shows an arrow urging you to traverse left around the north side of the summit block for the final pitch? Take a look. The first time I climbed this route I unfortunately over-adhered to this mistaken piece of graphical advice. Yeegads! It is a highly(and I mean highly) exposed, unprotectable dead-end that is full of shifting sand and cantilevered blocks. Rather less than "Fun" trying to "d... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : TAD (5.7)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Apr 18, 2006

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Comments: BETA: You might want to keep at least one 3" cam in reserve for the Capital 'S' Schmankey Hanging Belay. But only if trusting two lives to a single chockstone makes you nervous ((shudder)).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Apr 8, 2006

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Comments: This route and summit are the distillation of all that is right in the universe. Um, yeah, well anyway: RE 11/2005 Gear Alert: On 7April2006 my pard and I (mostly my pard:sorry dude)drug a bolt kit up to the summit and installed a 1/2" SS Rawl with a Fixe Ring anchor(5,800 lbfs! in 500 lbf rock). We removed the 30+ feet of girth-hitched rope/cordalette/runner garbage that was strung across the summit and presumably left by whoever snagged the above noted .75 camalot (bummer, man). So there is n... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Rochambeau (5.9)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Feb 6, 2006

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Comments: Take note: the top 35 feet of this is an entirely detached flake hinged on an 8 inch wide ledge. Body weight certainly isn't pulling it off, but you don't need a PhD in Gravitational Geology (er, something) to see that this thing is coming down on its own and soon (geologically speaking).


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Guide's Route (5.9)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Jan 19, 2006

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Comments: Our experience varied considerably from the guidebook description, but rather than go into the details, just take the "adventure" description seriously. Off route? on route? Who cares, just try not to kill your partner. Additionally, the rappel anchors immediately west of this route are a horror show, as of 14 January 2006. This goes especially for the second anchor down which is just a few slings slung over a small, entirely detached flake, precariously perched and weighing in at maybe 200 lbs.... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Corner Route (5.12-)
By: Vince MacMillan When: Apr 24, 2005

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Comments: A Few Random Comments on the Corner Route:1. The traverse is a 'must-do,' in my book.2. One 60meter rope will get you up and down, though the second rappel is about 30.5 meters and requires an arm stretch to the anchors. A final 30 meter rappel would then land you on a 'down-climbable' pillar. 3. Pitch 3 and Pitch 4, as designated above, can be combined into one long, wild, varied pitch that goes from fists to thin hands to tips to thin hands to off-width and even has a few finger locks in betw... more >>