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Member Since: Aug 12, 2010
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,248
Total Points: 528
Last Year: 52
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

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All 133 | Routes 15 | Areas 2 | Photos 67 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 17 | Stars 19 | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: Vic When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: 2014 Climbing Closures Amended:

All previously closed climbing routes and buttresses, from the Forrest-Walker/Stratosfear on the Painted Wall, upriver to the east (including the Porcelain and Alpine Aretes) are now open to climbing.

All previously closed climbing areas across from the Painted Wall on the South Rim (including Cedar Point and Dragon Point gullies) are now open to climbing.

The following areas are closed to climbing from now through July 15, 2014 to minimize or elimina... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Goss-Logan (5.11 R)
By: Vic When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: There are four new bolts on the crux pitch, with a new and old bolt still equalized at the first clip.

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle : Northwest Rib (5.9-)
By: Vic When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: This climb is a lot of fun. If you're looking for an obscure adventure route in an awesome setting, then this is well worth the extra effort it takes to figure out how to the cross the lake.

A few notes...
- There's no reason to hike up the gully to start the route mid-buttress. From where you park the boats at the base of the steep scree field, rope up and traverse above the water to start in a wide, left-facing corner with a piton. From here, basically stay on the ridge all the way to the ... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Black Shadow Arete (5.11a)
By: Vic When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: A few notes... the protection bolts on the pitch below Mirror Wall Ledge have been replaced. All of the other anchor bolts can be backed up with a bomber piece to supplement. The 5.10+, improbable-looking, thin crack/face variation on the amended topo is awesome and leads directly up to the bolts. The chimney/chasm that leaves from the left side of Mirror Wall Ledge is wild! Seemed like the ideal big cam rack would be two #4s and two #5s (C4s) - there's no good #4 (C4) plac... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Debutante's Ball (5.11)
By: Vic When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Just a note to help people find the correct start: the twin seams are relatively short and hard to find at first. Begin in the SOB gully, below a large boulder which is about 50' above a sizeble tree (just before you reach the terrace that is between the two buttresses). This climb is rad - certainly worthy of more traffic than it sees.

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : McInnis Canyons : The Cowboy Hat (A1)
By: Vic When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Suggested rack: snake skin boots, Levis, 80 meter rope, 12 pack of Coors, triples from grey Metolius to #6 Camalot (with extra finger-sized pieces), a tobacco product of your choice, Loweballs, and Hand Jammies. A Monument classic!

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mountain of the Sun : Eye Shadow (5.9 A2 PG13)
By: Vic When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Cameron,

It wasn't a bad time... an adventure for sure, but definitely worth it. With a few more days in Zion we probably would have tried to stick it out on the route.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Grand View Spire : Southwest Defile Route (5.8 C2)
By: Vic When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: These bolts are definitely not that inspiring, but they're a pretty cool relic of the original ascent... 50+ year old star dryvins with homemade angle iron hangers. Perhaps someone could replace the rivet/hangerless bolt below the two star dryvins with a solid bolt and leave the others in place for character. Just a thought. This is a cool route that's definitely worth doing, although not quite as good (or hard) as its neighboring route Relics. Also, #5 cam = old #5.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mountain of the Sun : Eye Shadow (5.9 A2 PG13)
By: Vic When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: My buddy and I gave this thing a go last week. We only got up nine pitches, over two days, but it was a wild and interesting adventure. A few notes: Most of the pitches were longer, looser, harder and shittier hauling than we expected.

We didn't find much "4th class" to speak of. You can lead to the large ledge on the top of pitch two with a 70 m, then toss the haul line back down and make one 60 m haul from the ground. It still sucks. The crack/chimney climbing on 3 & 4 is pretty fun an... more >>

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : McInnis Canyons : Little Bighorn (A1)
By: Vic When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: The anchor on the summit was backed up with a new bolt at some point since '05, so no need for the hand drill. I left a few extra pieces of paper in the summit register. This is a cool little tower, definitely worth checking out. To approach, park at the unmarked dirt pullout just 100 yards past King View Drive on the right, if you're heading towards the West Entrance. Take the trail through the break in the fence that's marked with a Monument sign. Follow trail K1 to K7 and enter Kodel's C... more >>

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Vic When: Mar 24, 2011

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Comments: The first pitch seemed to go at about 5.9, C1 in and out of the aiders quite a bit. There's definitely some mandatory free climbing up in the dirty chimney getting out to the bolt ladder, but no mandatory 5.10+ anywhere. Also, you can get down off this thing with one 70m rope in 4 rappels (the first and last raps are pretty close). This route was a lot of fun.

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison) : South Rim : The Real Blue Creek (WI4-5)
By: Vic When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: To avoid any private land issues, it's possible to approach The Real Blue Creek by parking at mile marker 124, where the canyon narrows on US Hwy 50 (parking for the Curecanti Monster) Descend the steep hill and follow the creek towards Blue Mesa. It's about a 1.5 to 2 hours on snowshoes to get to the Real Blue Creek, and you pass some other little smears and stuff down there as well (perhaps the Yellow Fang?). The Real Blue Creek was looking fat as of yesterday!

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Black Canyon National Park ... : Gandalf's Beard (WI4-5)
By: Vic When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: A few things to add - If you waited to do this route until February or March, you could climb the entire route at WI3ish, if that's what you wanted to do. By mid to late December, both pitches of this route are usually climbable, and this year the route was in before you could really ski the road out to the climb. In December/January, expect the bottom pitch to be an ice runnel with some mixed climbing at the top as you move out left. There's some great rock gear placements on the first pitch... more >>

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