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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Tidal Wave : Big Kahuna (5.10-)
By: vernon phinney When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are four routes on Tidal Wave; Big Kahuna is the least attractive - it has a dicey start to a great face that is short in duration - perhaps one star out of three. The middle two routes are very good for their grade and are two star routes. The route furthest right is very high quality climbing from start to finish and is definetly a three star route. Tidal Wave wall is worth the hike!!
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Location: SD
By: vernon phinney When: Jul 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brent, thank you for the information of Paul Duval. I had hoped to join up with him and climb again in the Needles; but guess it will have to be in spirit now. Enjoyed many outings with Paul and will miss him. Paul was indeed a very giving and sociable climber (from the old school!). He enjoyed and respected the climbing in the Hills along with many of the original climbers from the 60's/70's/80's.
I tried to call you, Brent, but could not access a telephone number - email me at dako... more >>
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
By: vernon phinney When: Jul 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bracksiecks Pillar lies southwest of the Comp Wall and is an excellent all day climbing destination. It has numerous routes that have been placed during the past years and has many choices of routes on the west, east, south and north faces; ie: you can chase the shade on any hot summer day and enjoy quality rock! I believe there are ~14 routes on the pillar ranging from 5.7 to 5.12a. Climbing varies from slab style friction to pulling on large patina flakes to finger/hand cracks to fla... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye
By: vernon phinney When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My compliments to Bob Archbold. Indeed the meeting that took place in 1988 was very significant and I will state that Bob's description of it is accurate with one exception. The exception was the use of hooks for aiding while placing bolts on new routes. I brought this topic up at the meeting and accused certain first-ascent people of using aid while establishing new routes in the Needles. The tone changed drastically and I have been told by members in attendance that they were concerned for my ... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Tuck and Roll (5.10+)
By: vernon phinney When: Oct 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you think that if we are linking bolts of separate climbs that we might be placing routes too close to each other?? Is this not creating a gridwork of bolts on a climbing face?? Where in the Needles is this NOT a possibility and should we really do this sort of activity??
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : All Tuckered Out (5.10a)
By: vernon phinney When: Oct 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: this has to be one of the greatest routes put in by inexperienced (at that time) route setters! I was asked to climb this route after completion by the initial route setters and found this route to be very high quality for the rating and location. I felt the protection was very well thought out and adequate. There are several high-quality cruxes throughout the route making this route unique. My compliments to the initial route setters of this route for NOT putting in a route within twenty feet o... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Solo System (5.6)
By: vernon phinney When: Oct 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route was originally soloed by Mike Engle as an approach to the top of Star Dancer, etc. I came out on the day Mike soloed it and asked him how he had gotten to the belay ledge where he was sitting, whereupon Mike stated he had scrambled up the face (Mike had climbing shoes on!). Mike also made the comment that it was 5.2-5.4 in grade; so up I scrambled wearing my tenny shoes. As you may well geuss; at the crux (quite a ways up the climb), my tenny shoes cut lose from th... more >>
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