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Member Since: Oct 9, 2005
Last Visit: Mar 6, 2014
Contact vernon phinney


Point Rank: # 11,037
Total Points: 19
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 30 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts | Stars 20 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Pre-Emptive Strike

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 (7)

Sport, 1 pitch, 110'

ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Bracksiek's Pillar

Jul 9, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Keyhole Canyon
By: vernon phinney When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Glad to see information on Key Hole Canyon. It was a great place for myself and friends to go and climb/party back in 1974-1977. I loved Keyhole, as it was remote and no interference from anyone! Wish there were some better pictures of the keyhole/waterfall area. Not a serious place like Red Rocks with the big wall committments! Had a friend, Sandy, part owner of the Boulder airstrip at the time, who flew into Keyhole canyon one day when he knew we were there climbing. Came in with plane in a ve... more >>


Location: SD : Cliffs of Dune : Seitch (5.9)
By: vernon phinney When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The Name is Seitch (see definition below)

The Seitches were underground, and/or cave dwellings used as housing for the Fremen of Dune.

Vernon Phinney - Cheers!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Tidal Wave : Big Kahuna (5.10-)
By: vernon phinney When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: There are four routes on Tidal Wave; Big Kahuna is the least attractive - it has a dicey start to a great face that is short in duration - perhaps one star out of three. The middle two routes are very good for their grade and are two star routes. The route furthest right is very high quality climbing from start to finish and is definetly a three star route. Tidal Wave wall is worth the hike!!


Location: SD
By: vernon phinney When: Jul 12, 2008

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Comments: Brent, thank you for the information of Paul Duval. I had hoped to join up with him and climb again in the Needles; but guess it will have to be in spirit now. Enjoyed many outings with Paul and will miss him. Paul was indeed a very giving and sociable climber (from the old school!). He enjoyed and respected the climbing in the Hills along with many of the original climbers from the 60's/70's/80's.

I tried to call you, Brent, but could not access a telephone number - email me at dako... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
By: vernon phinney When: Jul 9, 2008

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Comments: Bracksiecks Pillar lies southwest of the Comp Wall and is an excellent all day climbing destination. It has numerous routes that have been placed during the past years and has many choices of routes on the west, east, south and north faces; ie: you can chase the shade on any hot summer day and enjoy quality rock! I believe there are ~14 routes on the pillar ranging from 5.7 to 5.12a. Climbing varies from slab style friction to pulling on large patina flakes to finger/hand cracks to fla... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye
By: vernon phinney When: Jul 3, 2008

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Comments: My compliments to Bob Archbold. Indeed the meeting that took place in 1988 was very significant and I will state that Bob's description of it is accurate with one exception. The exception was the use of hooks for aiding while placing bolts on new routes. I brought this topic up at the meeting and accused certain first-ascent people of using aid while establishing new routes in the Needles. The tone changed drastically and I have been told by members in attendance that they were concerned for my ... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Tuck and Roll (5.10+)
By: vernon phinney When: Oct 11, 2005

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Comments: Do you think that if we are linking bolts of separate climbs that we might be placing routes too close to each other?? Is this not creating a gridwork of bolts on a climbing face?? Where in the Needles is this NOT a possibility and should we really do this sort of activity??


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : All Tuckered Out (5.10a)
By: vernon phinney When: Oct 11, 2005

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Comments: this has to be one of the greatest routes put in by inexperienced (at that time) route setters! I was asked to climb this route after completion by the initial route setters and found this route to be very high quality for the rating and location. I felt the protection was very well thought out and adequate. There are several high-quality cruxes throughout the route making this route unique. My compliments to the initial route setters of this route for NOT putting in a route within twenty feet o... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Marker : Middle Marker : Solo System (5.6)
By: vernon phinney When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: this route was originally soloed by Mike Engle as an approach to the top of Star Dancer, etc. I came out on the day Mike soloed it and asked him how he had gotten to the belay ledge where he was sitting, whereupon Mike stated he had scrambled up the face (Mike had climbing shoes on!). Mike also made the comment that it was 5.2-5.4 in grade; so up I scrambled wearing my tenny shoes. As you may well geuss; at the crux (quite a ways up the climb), my tenny shoes cut lose from th... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Roadside Plum 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Middle Marker

Weird Water 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Middle Marker

Star Dancer 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Middle Marker

Moonstone 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Middle Marker

Deja' Vu Prophecy 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Middle Marker

Anaphylactic Shock 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Hornets Nest

W.A.S.P. (center variation start) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Hornets Nest

Mr. Critical 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Hornets Nest

Evergreen 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Pine Tree Rock

Garfield Goes To Washington 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : White House Wall

Political Prowness 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : White House Wall

All Tuckered Out 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Shipyard Rock

Comb Over 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Old Baldy

Receding Fall Line 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Old Baldy

Pre-Emptive Strike 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Bracksiek's Pillar

This Is Ridiculous 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Half Dome

Watching the Wild Things 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Half Dome

Pigeon Roof 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Old Baldy

Second Hand Rose Arete 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Hornets Nest

Solo System 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Middle Marker

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